Ian and Pete’s alternative start to Commando Ridge

7th May 2013

Bosigran Ridge Area

Gallipoli – E1 5c – Lead
Commando Ridge – HVS 5a Variation – Lead

An early finish from work was the call, especially with the news bleating on about a change in weather. A rain front was due around 6pm so we thought we could grab a few hours before it arrived.

The last time we came to this area we got caught out by rain so this time it was a pronto decent to the bottom platform. Gallipoli caught my eye a while back. A fantastic line up immaculate granite. It’s given 5c in the guide, but from the bottom doesnt look too bad.

The line of Galipoli

The line of Galipoli

Looks can be deceptive though and I was soon taught a lesson in how to miss-read a crux from below. Pete, diligent as always witnessed me try a number of different variations to nail the crux, before I realised it was a case of ‘manning up’ and going for it. I made it, but I cant say I felt secure. Once committed the holds become apparent but they are not helpful as a whole.

I’ve not done a lot of 5c moves and this felt significantly harder than the 5b’s I’d done recently. It gives me confidence for having a go at some of the E2’s in this range though.

Looking back at our alternative start

Looking back at our alternative start

Pete declined Gallipoli but we spotted a slightly different line following a crack which finishes in the niche at the top of Pitch 2 of commando ridge. Not in the guide I would guess it to be in the HVS 5a region. Strenuous and sustained but with good pro. The two Herring Gulls guarding their nest looked on in amusement and a bit of angst as Pete and I struggled up and traverse around into the niche. (we kept well clear of them and their eggs)

Eggs!

Eggs!

Once on the ridge we thought it would be churlish not to tackle the big fin. This is probably the best pitch on the ridge and I didnt want to rob Pete of the chance of standing on the pinnacle which he did in good style.

Pete on the fin

Pete on the fin

We abandoned the ridge with grey clouds building all around us. Perfect timing and back in time for tea this time. Next up….. Lands End me thinks.

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