7th March 2015
Just Good Friends – HVS 5b – Lead
I soooo wanted to lead ‘Just Good Friends’ but after a quick top rope practice and still struggling mentally to make the move onto the flake it looked no closer.
The problem for meis that its a good 12 ft up and if you blow the move its an awkward fall (onto mats admittedly) which is likely to do my knee in. There is no pro to be had at the flake, at least none you’d want to trust.
After deciding I would never lead it, much to Dave and Tom’s amusement, I realised I could with a bit of leverage off the flake get a cam into the break. That was it then. Straight onto the lead and finished on the E1 now HVS finish.
I dont undertsand this actually. The hardest move is the lower one which gets 5a and yet the top finish is HVS 5b, with a well protected and reasonable move. I think the lower move is 5b and both variations could be given HVS 5b.
We mozied over to the next buttress, but by then conditions were cold and windy and the sun was gone. Tom though managed to clean a 6a boulder problem. Very awkward and requiring lots of power and commitment. Good on him.
I think Trewortha is going to be a regular evening haunt for us during the summer. Lots more to do and loads of bouldering to fail on…