29th April 2016
White Russians – VS 4c – Second
Once again a farmer has succeeded in making life difficult for the average walker/climber. It seems the permissive path to Black Head has been shut since October 2014 because of calving and a bull. The calves must be slow growers??
I understand why a farmer doesn’t want idiots scaring his/her cattle, but a blanket ban on using a permissive pathway, where I might add the fields are segregated except for the final one, is excessive. Anyway, using a liberal amount of common sense we checked the field and used the path anyway. The one horned bull and his harem were safely tucked away in an adjacent field. Of course Joe and I made sure Dave and Tom were safe by protecting our get-away, while they went ahead…..
So why were we at Black Head? Well, we’d been to Coastguard cliff and it was windy and freezing. It was good to get an eye on ‘Aboriginal Sin’ an amazing E3 5c on the Sirius Wall. It looks well protected and stren-u-ous. I think I’ll give that one a go during the summer.
So over to Black Head where we were out of the nasty wind…. NOT!! It was a bit more protected but the wind seemed to wrap around the point and blow back up the watershoot. It was a lovely sunny day, but harsh hanging on the belay below White Russians. Not that I would have denied Dave his lead. WR is one of the best VS’s in Cornwall imo. The traverse under the overhang is committing and exposed and Dave did a great job leading it. My third go on the route was as good as ever, despite not being able to feel my feet and it only takes a bit of climbing to get the blood flowing and the warmth back.
Dave and I both have target climbs here. I want to lead Rebel Yell and Dave Archangel. I know Joe is scouting an E3 as well, so a return is on the cards shortly. Hopefully on a slightly warmer day.