4th June 2014
No 32 Senza nome – 6b – lead Bart
Pur Troppo Facile – 5b – Lead Bart
Catwalk -5c/6a Lead Bart
No 7 Senza Nome – 6a Lead Bart
I wanna hold your hand – 6b Second Dogged Joe
Now Buchi Arta was one of the most relaxed places to climb. But more importantly the drive in is fantastic. It follows a dirt road for a fair few miles twisting through old Olive groves and hillside pastures eventually ending up in a copse of trees. A short walk and you emerge into a clearing were the crag emerges.
I loved it here, mainly because it has a good feeling about it. Goats wander in and out of the clearing and you feel like you are in a truly isolated spot. The climbing is good as well, with loads of routes crammed into a small area. It also has the advantage of being shady for the best part of the morning so you dont get fried and there are always the trees to catch a bit of shade under.
The 6b was short but powerful, but the best climb was the 6a., Senza Nome (without a name??) This was technical, but with some wicked and difficult moves up onto the main face. I just made it, but it was close. You get the feeling that this area is not climbed on so often as the edges are still sharp and the holds positive. I loved it.
La Poltrona was our villas namesake. It’s obviously very popular being so close to Cala Gonone. It dominates the view as you look back towards the mountains and is very impressive with huge, blank looking walls.
We climbed on the right hand face because it was late in the day, but it would have been interesting to see how hard the routes were on the main face. The easiest was 6c so it was probably out of our reach. Still, maybe another trip.
The 6b Joe had me on was nails., with a really hard balancy, smeary and no holds move through the crux. Beyond me on this day.
So it was back to the house for more curry and chilli. Yeeha!