Cala Luna

3rd June 2014

Fessura Degli Spilli – 5c/5c – Alt Lead Dave and Tom

What an amazing place Cala Luna is to climb. The walk in is an expedition in its own right, with step descents, hidden exits and water routed gulleys. Then its on to the river bed and sand for a meandering walk to the sea.

Long hot walk in.

Long hot walk in.

Mixed in are mini jungles to negotiate, full of goats and lizards and the ever present heat. But once at the sea it opens out into a beatiful sandy bay with climbing on the flanks. There is actually a restaurant on the beach (obviously supplied by boat as the walk in would be a mare unless it was with donkeys which I think they do from time to time.

Is this real?

Is this real?

The climb is two pitches. Both quite different. The first is a bit of a chimney, with loads of bridging. Felt reasonably tough, but if you can bridge then its straight forward. The belay ledge is a large platform but for some reason I didnt find it very reassuring. Lots of loose large boulders and the trees didnt feel like they would last!

A big but dodgy ledge...

A big but dodgy ledge…

With three of us climbing together (Dave, Tom and me) it became a cosy place. What you cant deny is that the view was stunning. If you imagine a mediteranean beach with turquoise seas this would fit the bill.

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Dave took on the top pitch which had a really akward pinch and mantle. The bolt was poorly placed as well so protection was no what it could be. Once through though we were treated to vistas all across the coast. Even if the rock up there was like sitting on razor blades. We only just had enough fluids with us so it was back down pronto for the gruelling but satisfying walk out. This is a venue I’d want to return to to do a bit more exploration.

Chilling on the razor rocks!

Chilling on the razor rocks!

A bit hot

A bit hot

The evening was finished off with a brilliant meal down in the town. Dave and I shared a Black Bream, but more interestingly I also sampled the mullet eggs, a local delicacy and in the UK very expensive. It wasnt cheap here, but the taste was very salty and fishy. Strange but somehow enjoyable. What a great end to the day.

Chill time on the walk out.

Chill time on the walk out.