11th May 2016
Sole Fly – 6a+ – Lead
Baby – 6a+ – Lead
Oh Gigi – 6b – Lead (Dogged)
Our first day in Sardinia didnt go completely to plan. Waking up to sunshine and 25 degree temperatures was the plan…. the reality was fog of all things and the odd very light shower which seemed to evaporate as it hit the ground.
So on advice from Peter we stayed local and opted for a really convenient crag where you could almost drive the car to the bottom of the first route.
We had decided to go straight at it and my first choice (rightly or wrongly) was a tricky 6a. The crux felt hard on Sole Fly, but it did establish a baseline from which to work all week. I had assumed that 6b’s would be in range, but the truth was that 6a+ was the natural grade and 6b was reserved very much for pushy days.
In hindsight I think Campo dei Miracoli was the only crag we climbed at where polish was an issue. I found some of the foot placements insecure and this was the only time on the trip I can remember this happening. That said the routes were really good, but seemed tough for the grade.
The 6b was very tricky on the headwall and stopped me in my tracks. The bottom crack was great, but working out the higher moves was perplexing. Even with the aid of a magic stick from two french climbers from Corsica. This is a quick drawer with a stiff leash so you can clip higher. It was great but still didnt help me through the section 🙂 .
We spent the day accompanied by some very smelly pigs who wandered the area in herds turning over rocks and earth with their snouts. Some were nearly dead smelly pigs when they set a large boulder down the slope which went through the herd like a bowling ball.
This was also our introduction to breakfast at the Lemon House which was always entertaining. Michael and Bau from Stutgart were on a mission to smash themselves on a long walk (mainly to appease Bau who thought walking was a bit tame), so they planned two long routes. And this trading of experiences and adventures was common throughout the week. I think B & B might be a good way for the future.