12th May 2016
Marinaio De Foresta – 6a+ – Alt Leads (Dave and Chris)
A little vid of our adventure –
Joe had kindly pointed this one out before we left, but I had no idea how close it was to where we were staying. Head towards Baunei and turn off 1km before to drop over the saddle and there in front of you is the peninsula.
Its spectacular and the climb itself is one of the best I’ve done. Perched above an azure sea its what travelling to climb is all about. Maybe we could have waited a few days to get on this, but with good weather forecast and light winds it was perfect.
We divided the route up so that we would all get a few pitches (there are 7 in all) and lucky Dave got to head off first. The bolts are pretty spaced on the first pitch. Given 5c I would have expected them a bit closer, but Dave didnt seem unduly concerned and set straight off. The final few metres introduces to the exposure that lasts for the rest of the climb as you step out from the initial face onto a small ledge with a straight drop into the ocean.
There wasnt a bad pitch on the whole route. P1 is steep and slightly loose but with a great step over, P2 is steep with small holds, P3 has strange rounded rock formations and a difficult start, p4 is a traverse along an amazing terrace, p5 has an overhang and strenuous rising traverse, p6 has pumpy overlaps and is sharp and p7 finishes with a grunty chimney of sorts.
And then you get to stand on the top rocks for a stunning view across the bay. The top has a beautiful copse which casts amazing shadows and light and provides an area of tranquility to bring the heart rate down. The ab though soon has it back up again, with loose rocks and bushes to snag the rope on.
Best of all is that you walk off the climb into the bar… 🙂 . The beers we had were a fitting cap to what was one of the best days climbing I’ve ever had. I almost wanted to go do it again the following day.