Villagio Gallico

14th May 2016

Frolix – 6A + – Lead (Dogged)
AbiCiDix – 5c – Lead
Minimix – 6a – Lead
Yellow Submarine – 6a+ – Lead
Sono Pazzi Questi Romani (S.P.Q.R.) – 6b/c – T/R(DNF)

Having met up with Rory and Hannah at the Lemon House, it seemed like a good choice to try to spend some time with them at the crag. Normally when we are are away, we are a bit isolated in our little group, but meeting good people at the LH meant we had the opportunity to spend time climbing with some different faces. Even better Manu and Sigi were there too, meaning we had a full gang 🙂

Convenient Parking on the road to Pedra Longa

Convenient Parking on the road to Pedra Longa

Of course when I set off, I didnt realise that this would involve leaving part of my finger tips on the crag. That said, it was worth it just to give myself a go at something really hard and many thanks to Rory for all the encouragement.

HARIBO!!!!

HARIBO!!!!

 

This was a really good day of climbing, with a number of really varied and different routes. Tough face climbs, like Frolix and difficult cracks like Yellow Submarine and then of course the slightly bewildering finishing moves to AbiCiDix, a fantastic layback crack followed by a step out onto a relatively blank face. Nice one Hannah on this!! Mind you, Hannah’s language deteriorated as the climbs got harder, but I know all about that problem suffering from it myself.

Happy Belayer

Happy Belayer

Frolix has a difficult finishing move, although its sustained throughout. What I didnt realise is that there is a great hold out left which unlocks it, so I blew the onsight, but made it in the end. Same went for Yellow Submarine. Very overhanging even though it doesnt look it and then a grunty finish to haul yourself up through the top crack.

Sono Pazzi Questi Romani (S.P.Q.R.)

Sono Pazzi Questi Romani (S.P.Q.R.)

And of course then there was SPQR, given 6b+ but with some hard crimpy moves that just shredded my finger tips. That’s what comes of being a ‘pansy’ office worker. I also broke a hold off to make it a bit easier. I did enjoy this though. Lots of thin crimps to pull on, which finally defeated me. However Rory demonstrated how it should be done. I think I need to work on my finger strength and power??

Hannah on AbiCiDix

Hannah on AbiCiDix

A really nice part of meeting up with R & H and S & M, was that we also met up in the evenings, meaning we could have a nice meal together. On this evening we returned to the Il Castillo for another round of Pizza’s and beer and lots of good chat. Absolutely loved it!