Tag Archives: Anvil Chorus

Climbing

A chorus of approval

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13th May 2012

Bosigran

Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Second

It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.

Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus

Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.

Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus

It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.

Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus

Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.

Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.

Chilled walk back after AC

The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.

After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Ian on Alison Rib

He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.

I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....

So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.

Climbing

The good, the bad and the inspirational

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27th February 2010
Bosigran

Doorway (Pitch 1) – Severe 4a – Second
Doorpost (Pitch 2ish) – HS 4b – Lead
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Second

Heavy rain the night before and some intermitant showers made this an unlikely classic day, but you never know how things will turn out. A quick decision at Tesco’s in Penzance meant we were en route to Bosi. The sun kept peeking out between dark rain clouds but the forecast was good. This was the first time Joe and I had climbed with Nick so I was hoping for a good day and so it turned out.

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Having said that we arrived at the base of the crag to see everything soaked by a short shower. Surrounded by rainbows we decided on a Doorway/Doorpost hybrid to warm up, which turned out to be great fun. The doorway pitch proved testing in the damp conditions, but it is amazing how fast the cliffs dry. After Nicks lead (I wimped out in the wet) I set out on the last two thirds of Doorposts second pitch. Brilliant exposure on great holds – love it – leads you out onto one of Bosi’s great pitches. I seconded this one last time here so it was good to have a go on the lead.

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Nick had mentioned he wanted to have a go at Anvil Chorus so after lunch it was back onto another classic climb.

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With the light becoming ever more spectacular as dark clouds formed up around us, Joe set out on the first pitch (linking the two bottom pitches into one. On the second part of this is a dark niche passed on the right by a bold move up onto the arete. Joe made a brilliant job of this, clearly enjoying himself up there.

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The third pitch of AC is the classic pitch, although I think the climb as a whole has great variety. This pitch, follows a vertical double crack and then breaks right in a traverse to a final mantelshelf. The fact I found it difficult as a seconder makes me understand that it must be a difficult lead. Removing the gear needs good strength and stamina, so placing it must be hard as well. Having said that, it must be one of the all time great pitches of Bosi, exposed and technical. There are foot placements that allow you to use the faces as well, but ultimately laybacking is the approach.

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When Nick set off, it was almost a ‘Little Big Horn’ situation with the weather. We were surrounded by black clouds with squalls off the coast and a haze of rain over towards Pendeen lighthouse. If I’m honest I thought we would make it, but Nicks call was perfect (for me and him). Unfortunately Joe ended up climbing the pitch in a rain shower which soaked everything. Powerful arms and determination saw him to the top finishing one of the best climbs I’ve ever done.

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You feel like you’ve achieved something when you sneek in ahead of the weather like this. Rain either side of out session, but in between great climbing and great fun.

The rest of the phots can be seen here.

We are so lucky to live down here.