Tag Archives: Bashers Harbour

True Grit?

26th July 2018

Bashers Harbour

Cave Buttress – HS 4b/HVS 5a – Lead
Mince Pie Problem – V Diff – Second

Obviously the lack of traffic on this crag plays a part. In the Cave Buttress area the rock is actually quite sound (in contrast to the piles of rubble lying in the sea elsewhere), but it has a grittiness to it probably derived from too few climbers.

Cave Buttress is given HS 4b on UKC but in the guidebook it gets HVS 5a. The guidebook is the more realistic grade. The crux is a powerful move from an undercling with a long reach. Although the gear is OK you leave it below as you make the moves so a fall is going to result in a bit of a whipper. It is definitely easier for the taller.

The VS Dave had been looking at (Cave Groove Direct) has suffered from a rockfall in its lower section. Its probably still do-able but the fresh rock looks a bit brittle and I cant say it looks attractive. The Severe next to it which Dave top-ropped does look good if a bit bold. It seems unlikely at the grade but dave found it OK if a little gritty.

Mince Pie Problem, which I’d already done was just as good the second time around. Its not easy, with a few tricky moves in the lower section, but in all its good climbing working your way up a corner and using all faces.

Block Party

17th May 2014

Bashers Harbour

Footloose – VS 4c – Lead
The Flake – VS 4c – Lead (Dogged)
Mince Pie Problem – Diff – Solo

Everyones entitled to do something stupid once in a while. It helps if the consequences of that stupidity wont be fatal.

Relieved and scared

Relieved and scared

In hindsight and after reading an article on UKC titled ’10 ways to stay alive while climbing’ I wish I had done things differently. Maybe taken a bit more time thinking things through. The Flake turned out to be a bit of a nightmare really. A very hard (and wet) start with a nice 2ft square moving block finale. All of which added up to Tom not being able to second me because of the danger of the whole lot going. As dodgy as my abseil looked this was not really the danger point. It was backed up by two bomber nuts. The danger was the top blocks breaking loose while I was cleaning my gear and pulverising me.

My ab belay?????

My ab belay?????

Half of my rack was commited into the climb so the consequences of not retrieving it would be expensive. But gear is meant to save your life, not put it in danger. £200-£300 is a small amount in the scheme of things. Maybe next time I’ll just leave it and renew my rack.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

That adventure aside, the other climb we did was brilliant. Footlosse is balancy, edgy and technical. Pro is adequate but not abundent, but altogether it is a super climb. Setting up the belay can be tricky as Chris found out, having to down climb back to a safe spot. And its not comfortable, but its worth it.

The Main Face area

The Main Face area

As is all of Bashers Harbour. A lovely (if loose place), with a remote feel to it and a real spirit of adventure. We had it all on this day; falling rocks, dodgey abseils and a tide that waits for no man and nearly claimed Dave and Chris’s rucksacks, except for the quick witted Tom who leapt across the bolder field to rescue them.

Tom watching Pete on Footloose

Tom watching Pete on Footloose

 

The day ended with the demise of my long suffering Lumix Camera as it finally gave it up after having been bashed around the cliffs for 3 years and a solo on Mince Pie Route. Quite enough excitement for one day.