Tag Archives: Bosigran

A strange door obsession

23rd August 2023

Bosigran – Main Face

Doorway – Severe 4a – Alt Lead (P1)
Doorpost – HS 4b – Alt Lead (P2)

This was an occasion for re-visiting some old favourites and picking up on the theme of doors, we opted for two absolute classics.

End of Pitch 1 Doorpost

To be fair it was great to just spend time on the rock and both routes are challenging enough to keep you sharp. I absolutely love climbing at Bosigran. It was one of the first places Bart ever took me when we started climbing. And what a revelation it was. I remember doing Andrew and realising that climbing was going to be the source of my adventures going forward.

F#@k surfing and crowds with bad attitude.

Chris leading Pitch 1 Doorpost

Here you can be with mates in the solitude of some of the most beautiful parts of Cornwall surrounded by good vibes and excitement. I have said before that it gives me the same buzz as I had when I started surfing back in the 80’s with no crowds and just mates for company.

Having fun on Doorpost

Sat on a belay ledge 200ft up a cliff makes you reflect on these things and realise how lucky you are. I think I’ll always think of myself as foremost a surfer, but the reality now is that I climb a lot more than I surf.

The furnace

7th June 2023

Bosigran

Ledge Climb – Hard V Diff – Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Lea
d

Bosigran sort of acts like a satellite dish with the sun out. It seems to capture every ray that comes through. Add the heat radiating off the granite and it gets pretty warm.

Barry and me found this out the hard way. Even the strong breeze couldn’t make it through, so both climbs were done in the blazing sun. But having said that, they were both great fun. Its been 18 years since I last climbed Ledge Climb with Chris. 18 Years! And before that I’d done it with Bart, although I dont have a record of the date we did it.

I’d forgotten what a superb climb Ledge Climb is. You get straight into some steep ground on the first pitch (no push-over). A meandering second pitch takes you into the heart of Bosi. And then the ‘Coup de Gras’. A chimney followed by the famous ‘ledge’ or ramp. So much exposure combined with great climbing. Its a joyous climb. One to do if you need cheering up because its guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

For Barry, it was a steep learning curve. (Welcome to MagikRock Barry). His first lead follow was Alison Rib and then straight into multi-pitch. No problem with the climbing and a good head for heights. Barry is a natural. I can see many more adventures ahead.

Black Slab Revisited

Bosigran Main Face
16th April 2021

Andrew – V Diff, Severe, VS3c+ (take your pick) – Alt Lead
Black Slab – Diff – Solo

There are days in climbing where you just don’t want any pressures. Where the ultimate enjoyment is going to be moving on the rock, effortlessly, with no pressure to put yourself out of your comfort zone. Chris and I decided this was going to be one of those days, although Andrew does provide a few surprises even at V Diff/Severe.

Pitch 1 Andrew

Some of the old V Diffs just don’t feel like V Diffs. Andrew is definitely one of those. Hovering around the Severe to V Diff grade in the guides, it has a couple of pitches which are guaranteed to give new V Diff leaders a run for their money.

Pitches 2 and 4 provide dilemma’s for the novice leader in different ways. And even for Chris, who would cruise V Diffs all day, the moves are perplexing. Pitch two start off a broad ledge with a step up onto a face. Looks easy 🙂 but its off balance and your feet never feel comfortable. Hands are not right either. I dont know how many times I started off when I first led it, and Chris found it exactly the same. Definitely a trust move.

Pitch 4 Andrew

And of course the final pitch. As out there as V Diff/Severe’s can be. Top of Bosi with an overhanging V groove/chimney. Everything’s there, but its intimidating and atmospheric. What a pitch to finish on.

The lower slabs and seaward area

And that was it for the lead and roped climbing. We dropped down to the seaward face to check out Geronimo which provided endless fun. Its not an easy climb down and we seemed to find a different way out up some sloping ledges. It seemed the only fitting way to end things was a solo of Black Slab. And how good is that. Big holds, big foot placements and a birds eye view across Bosi.

Black Slab

Two very satisfied climbers stopped for a quick Guiness at the Gurnards Head. My first post COVID bear out and sat in the sun in the garden there it was our own little bit of paradice as we congratulated each other in our smugness.

Ian and Toms super tangly ropes (or how not to organise your safety!)

5th May 2017

Bosigran/The Great Zawn

Simple Simon – HS 4b – Lead
Picnic – VS 5a – Lead
The Variety Show – HVS 5a – Lead

A great day at Bosigran with three climbs that all delivered on the entertainment front. For a change Tom and I got to climb together and we lucked into three top climbs at Bosi. Considering how many times I’ve been there this is somewhat baffling, but as Tom said, there is a tendency to walk past the climbs in the initial area to get to the big names. And this is probably why they are missed.

Bosi

I’d seen some climbers on Simple Simon last month, so it was an obvious choice really. A somewhat bizarre opening pitch which involves grass trekking and avoiding the shrubbery actually delivers some good moves. The rising crack is fun and thought provoking. But it is the second pitch which is atmospheric, with a final crystal filled crack which needs some working out. Tom got it first time, but I had a few attempts before unlocking the slightly perplexing moves.

 

Picnic is if anything even more unusual. The rising corner seems straight forward enough, but there is enough about it to make it worthwhile. We left the upper pitch as we were Zawn bound, but I think the harder moves are found here and the crackline looks good. Something in the back of my mind says I’ve done this many years ago with Bart, but I might be mistaken.

Bluebells!! The hidden killer!

And so to the main event. We descended down the Desolation Row path (always entertaining with the lethal bluebells which act like butter on your shoes) and abbed down after Joe and Dave had kindly set up the abb rope.

Before we realised the ab rope was broken!!!!!

The Variety Show looks intimidating from the bottom and it delivers on intimidation when y0u’re on it as well. Basically a curving crack with a wicked sting in the tail. You have to be on your wits the whole way. But its soooooooo good.  I think this may be some of the most absorbing climbing I’ve ever done. Once at the top of P1 you’re faced with a complex series of moves to get established in the final crack. I ended up bridging after climbing myself into a weird position. It was the only way I could straighten out, but it worked well in the end. Tom had similar dificulties and ended up in the same area, but somehow extricated himself in a different way.

Anyway, both up safely we then managed to make the biggest pigs ear of our rope work. I dropped it down the cliff, then Tom tangled it on the belay. It was at this point we decided the only way to straighten them out was to keep climbing so we did P2. How much fun can you have on overhangs and grass!

Seat with a view

Eventually we bushwacked our way back to the ab rope to find that Joe and Dave were having a mare on Zarathrustra with stuck cams and upside down falls. Joe eventually sorted it by abbing off again to get his gear. Is there no end to his energy? And so we got back to the car as it got dark after a very full but enjoyable day.

Woods for the trees

25th March 2016

Bosigran

Rapture – VS 4c – Tom

I dont know how many times I’ve been to Bosi and yet it still seems possible to pick up new lines, even in an area like Red Slab.

Tom and Dave synchronising
Tom and Dave synchronising

Rapture actually takes an obvious line through the overlaps, but cuts across about 4 routes in doing so, so not one to do on a busy day… It has two committing step ups but the gear in general is good and the holds are really positive. You get the full exposure of the Ding face, taking a line slightly higher than the Ding alcove but below the flake of Belle.

Tom on Rapture
Tom on Rapture

Its just really good climbing at the grade. The second pitch swings out wide on the flank of the wall, but Tom included the chimney of Ding to spice things up and then broke out onto a great slab near the top. This gives exposed climbing but up a friendly slab. All in all a top VS and it should have stars in the book.

Bosigran_Mar16 (12)

Neanwhile Dave was bagging an HVS in the form of Belle, another terrific climb on this wall. This takes the higher flake which is abit more committing. Good job on this for Dave this early in the year.

Dave on Belle
Dave on Belle

Unfortunately the morning was marred by wet rock as Joe and I were unable to tackle our main objectives. Joe wanted to try Kohima and I was looking at Dolphinarium and Variety Show in the Great Zawn. Still, thats for next time.

 

Oooh Suits you Sirs

1st January 2015

Bosigran
Commando Ridge – V Diff – Alt Lead

Big Ron and the boys made the most of a dreary New Years day, with an assault on Commando ridge in impeccable style… well maybe not impeccable but better that your average ridge climber.

Nice Tie
Nice Tie

Big Ron and the Boys
Big Ron and the Boys

After too many Prosecco’s at the Fish House at Fistral (amazing food by the way) the previous night we met early dressed in our finest New Years day suits. Strangely there was something actually likeable about climbing in a two piece, probably a throw back to bygone days.

Gearing up? Or already geared up.
Gearing up? Or already geared up.

We were also incredibly quick for us. Probably due to the impending rain, but we were up there in less than 2 hours. Plenty of soloing and moving together. By time I’d finished I was proper sober again, but absolutely knackered. The sleep on the way home helped!

The classic ridge.
The classic ridge.

What a great way to welcome in the new year.

Hung over selfie
Hung over selfie

Clouds to right of them, Clouds to left of them, Clouds in front of them, Volley’d and thunder’d;

21st March 2014

Bosigran

Venusberg – VS 4c – Lead

Ok a bit over dramatic but as has been typical of 2014 the weather was iffy. We spent the day watching dark squalls slowly travelling cross the ocean passing to our left and right, but somehow missing us. Tennyson’s poem seemed apt. How we escaped the rain I dont know but we did and I’m grateful for that.

Moody Bosigran
Moody Bosigran

Pete and I teamed up to have a go at Venusberg while Dave and Tom went off to do Ding. Chris had done Venusberg a while back with Nick and I’d always wanted to try it. Described as one of the more technical VS’s at Bosi it lived up to its reputation. The four pitches have a bit of everything. Pitch one deals out a tough mantleshelf, some abck and fronting up the back of the pinnacle, run out balancy climbing on pitch 3 and a very windy exit on pitch 4.

Happy Pete
Happy Pete

I think that Pete may have enjoyed this one more than me judging by the massive grin he ws sporting. A real adventure on a day when we had no right to expect to be able to climb. Lucky us!

What a difference a day makes…

Bosigran

12th April 2013

Flat Top – HS 4b – Lead
Crazy Man Michael – VS 4c – Second
Little Brown Jug (Variation Start P1) – HVS/VS 5a? – Lead
Thin Wall Special(P2) – E1 5b/5a – Lead
Trapeze – HVS 5a – Second

I challenge you to read the title and not hum the tune in your head (or I’m a bit abi normal) I’m sat here looking out the window at drizzle, whereas yesterday at Bosi we were treated to Sunshine and a glorious day.

It was a strange day actually for me. Five climbs in my logbook, but in reality it was three. This was on account of a mix and match approach to our routes. Having walked away from Sinistra which looked more like a waterfall, we started on Flat Top, a really nice HS with some good moves getting past the overhang to the corner.

Me on Flat Top

As it happened overhangs played quite a part on this day. Joe’s lead on pitch two was Crazy Man Michael which starts with a … you’ve guessed it… a overhang. A lot tougher than Flat Top though. You never feel in balance and its strenuous. Having cleared this though the climbing continues up the exposed arete at a much more amenable level. It is well worth doing.

Joe about to set off on the tough opening moves of Crazy Man Michael

Joe high on CMM

Meanwhile the rest of the crew (Tom, Dave, Pete, Chris and Nick who made the long journey down from the wilds of Dartmoor) were on their own routes. Chris and Nick on the by all accounts very good Venusberg and the others on the classic Andrew. A climb I have fond memories of as it was my first multi pitch route with Bart. The step out from the ledge onto the slab is always tense because you never quite feel settled. A good lead from Dave on this one. Venusberg is definitely on my list for next time out.

Pete moving onto the delicate traverse on P2 Andrew

Having taken a closer look at Visions of Johanna, discretion finally got the better part of valour and I opted for a try on Little Brown Jug’s variation start in order to get to P2 of Thin Wall Special. Originally we had planned this for a threesome, but it made sense for Nick and Chris to get on a route instead of hanging around so they went off to do the brilliant Paragon.

LBJ P1

The overhang start (there it is again) seemed OK to me, but the next move is very tin if you continue on a direct line. A bridging move right opens up the good holds higher up and then the climbing is fun right up to the belay ledge of Doorway/Thin Wall Special. Joe kindly deferred this one to me as I had wanted to lead TWS and the top pitch looked wild.

It didnt disappoint. The corner of Doorway is good climbing in its own right and when you get to the roof it seems a bit improbable that it goes at 5a. A move up into the niche gives a chance for a breather and then its stepping out under yet another overhang and aiming for the gap. I found it really scary and although the holds are quite positive you need to shape yourself to get across to the finishing jugs. I just made it but hanging off the final jug dangling 150ft up is amazing.

Joe through the crux on Trapeze

Joe had to go one better by cutting loose with his feet, but his grin gave away how much he enjoyed himself, even if he looked thoroughly knackered.

Dave on Flat Top

Back at the bags with Nick and Chris still on Paragon and Dave leading Flat Top we decided on a last route so Joe had a go on the fierce but short Trapeze. Its all packed into two crux’s, but with the big No 4 Camelot on board Joe could protect the top offwidth crack. I like the route, but I imagine Pete doesnt having given it his best but on this occasion been defeated. I know the feeling well. Another day then.

As usual 7 hours passed like 7 minutes and we were late returning, but it was the culmination of another great adventure on the Cornish Coast and we have many more planned.

Ochre’s my favorite colour

Bosigran / Halldrine Cove
10th August 2012

Ochre Slab 1 – VS 5a – Alt lead (P2)
Ding – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P2)
Limpet Slab – V Diff – Second

On occasions the Ochre Slab area of Bosi is almost like a seperate venue to the main cliff. A large gulley seperates it from Raven Wall and whilst the well known multi pitch routes around the Doorpost area can be busy, this area has the feeling of seclusion.

Looking out towards Commando Ridge

And it was like that on this day. I’d earmarked Paragon initially, but OSR1 was clear and I’d always wanted to have a crack at the wild chimney on its final pitch.

With Dave and Tom tackling the classic Black Slab we scrambled our way across to the start via some soloing. OSR1 has two completely contrasting pitches. The first is all about finesse with a crux that involves traversing blind around the arete on the right. Pro’s ok but it’s a tricky move and you have to have faith that there is something there for your feet and hands. Chris made it look easy, finding the invisible holds and foot placements and looking like he was thoroughly enjoying himself. The whole line flows very nicely and although the top slab is bold, the climbing is not tough as you get higher.

Dave on Black Slab

The chimney is entirely different. Still requiring a bit of faith that holds will come, it’s all about pulling up into the space and then searching out the jugs. My first attempts, while Tom was belaying directly below were abandoned on account of my landing on his head if I fell. After a nervous couple of minutes I hauled up and ‘behold’ it all becomes clear how its done. Just have faith!

Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2

Chris and I moved onto Ding while Tom and Dave went for OSR2 a fitting companion to our previous route and a brilliant climb as well. Chris got the first pitch of Ding which to be honest is the best one. He remarked later how all the climbs on this day seemed to flow and this is particularly the case with Ding. It follows a superb line up the face with a series of hard moves.

Ian demonstrating how not to chimney

My ventures on the second pitch once again exposed my failings on chimneys. Still, I had fun and the final swing out on the overhang (we were off route by this time, probably on Dong) capped two amazing routes. Big smiles all around then and only one course of action…..

To the Cove for a swim!!!!

and jump!

Having cooled off nicely on what was a baker of a day we finished on two side by side routes at Halldrine Cove, which Dave and Tom led. Contrasting, mine which Tom led, was an exposed arete and Chris’ which Dave led was an akward chimney. Both done really well by their respective leaders.

Dave and Tom leading at Halldrine

Tom and Dave are coming on really fast with their leading. I remenisced with Chris on the fact that it took a couple of years for us to get to the same stage that they are at after a few months. The big difference I suppose is that Chris and I had to learn everything for ourselves and we had no one to push us. Didnt stop us having fun though and this year we’re checking out E1’s so we got there in the end.

Chris on Shrimpet

Oh Yes! Nearly forgot about the encore. A pod of Risso’s Dolphins appeared literally as we finished the day. Could it get better. Yes. A stop for a beer at Zennor capped what was a truly memorable day.

Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine

 

 

A chorus of approval

13th May 2012

Bosigran

Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Second

It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.

Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus

Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.

Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus

It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.

Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus

Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.

Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.

Chilled walk back after AC

The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.

After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib

Ian on Alison Rib

He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.

I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....

So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.