Tag Archives: Cheesewring

Success seems largely a matter of hanging on when others have let go

26th August 2016

Cheesewring Quarry

Daisys Flapjack – 6a+ – Dgd (Just)
Trouble with Lichen – E3 6a – Dgd
Double Agent – 7a+ – DNF
Debutante – E3 6a – DNF
Half Route Half Boulder Problem – E3 5c – DNF

On this particular day my success rate was to be measured by the number of failures I achieved. That said, it was a really enjoyable days climbing and it made a real change to be able to unleash on a climb and not have to worry about gear or a leader fall.

I also found my level. Although I could do the moves on most of the routes, what I couldnt do was link them together in some cohesive fashion that would have enabled me to clean a whole route. But it was good to know that I could do a 6a move, even if it took me a few attempts.

Joe of course was smashing everything, but I realise that if I am to push my grade at some point this is something I’m going to have to do more of. Without actually practicing ome moves at this level I would have no idea what was in store for me.

My favourite two routes were Trouble with Lichen and Double agent. Both very technical in different ways, but both really satisfying when you had worked the moves out. TWL I managed on about my 6th attempt, but finally realised what I needed to do. DA was a case of not being strong enough. Maybe after some indoor training I’ll be able to do the upper moves, but not yet.

I think I might return to Cheeswring for a bit more ‘training’. I also fancy Warrior at some point.

Who yanked our chain

27th June 2015

Cheesewring Quarry

Figuzzi – HS 4b – Alt Lead
Sunset Arete – VS 4c – Lead
Simanon Direct – HVS 4c – Lead

Cheesewring quarry has not been the site of many classic days for me. In the main, when I rock up here it turns out to be damp, dank and unpleasant. Thats not to say the venue isnt good, I just dont catch it when its good.

View out of the quarry

View out of the quarry

Mt expectations for this day were therefore on the low side, so when Dave and I started off on a slightly bold and polished first pitch of Figuzzi I thought ‘Here we go again’. I’m pleased to say I was entirely wrong.

Dave searching for gear where there is none.. Figuzzi

Dave searching for gear where there is none.. Figuzzi


The first pitch delivered better climbing as it progressed. Yes a bit bold, but good moves and position. The second pitch was a classic moving into unlikely territory and gaining in exposure and steepness. The final moves past the overhang were brilliant on big jugs and and with a nice void opening up below.

Dave on Sunset Arete

Dave on Sunset Arete

So, there was only one thing for it. Sunset Arete. Again, looking OK, but delivering much more. This too gets into steep and exciting ground, with some classic reaches and moves and you get onto the steep upper face. Two good un’s down, one to go.

Towards the return traverse on Simanon Direct.

Towards the return traverse on Simanon Direct.

And boy did we save the best for last. Dave’s confidence had been growing as we climbed, so my suggestion of ‘Let’s go and do the really bold HVS around the corner’! was greeted enthusiastically., if a bit nervously. ‘You can do two pitches Dave’ was met with equal joy.

Mantle to the big ledge. Simanon Direct

Mantle to the big ledge. Simanon Direct

As it happened it was an epic. The first pitch is harder than it looks, needing some thistle negotiaition and a couple of technical mantleshelves to reach the dubious anchor of ‘the chain’. With a screwgate on this and a dodgy cam in, it was a terrific belay from which to launch an assault on the bold traverse pitch 2. A Crux mantle, followed by smearing out across the ramps (one small nut available) and then traverse back placing loads of crappy cams for mental security. Finally another mantle to the big ledge and a big sigh of relief to replace the nervous giggles.

Daves face said it all as he appeared on the ledge with me. ‘Fuck me!’ was my greeting which I totally understood… Lucky Dave got the final rising flake crack, whicg makes the whole climb really worthwhile. Its just as good as it gets. High, exposed and immaculate moves. Enough to put a smile on the face of two weary climbers at the end of my first proper good session at the ring.

I think I might go back ­čÖé

Rain Shadow

2nd August 2012

Agent Provocateur – F7b – Worked
Potential Energy – F6c+ – Worked

The Cheesewring is not the first place that springs to mind when you are considering finding a crag on a showery day, but the secret is to make sure you know which direction the wind is coming from.

The Agent Provocateur wall faces North East, so if the wind is from the South West it blows any rain straight over the slightly overhanging wall and keeps it dry. And this was the case, with only the belayer getting a bit damp.

I clipped a load of drawers on all the bolts and we pre clipped ┬áthe rope on Agent Provocateur as a start, which is an alternate start for Potential Energy. The beginning of this is tough and takes time to work out (particularly if you’re not used to this grade).

We gradually worked our way up. I can now link the whole route with the exception of the last move onto the shelf. I intend to try and lead it next time there and also have a crack at Double Agent a more realistic finsh than that of AP.

Tom and Dave had fun on their first experience of hard sports routes spending the required amount of air time. It’s strange how what seems impossible at first gradually becomes a posibility as you find the little holds and foot placements.

I find the whole exercise good practice and it definitely improves your climbing. There are loads of other routes there for us to explore, so I imagine we’ll be back shortly to try again.

Maybe next time I’ll actually get to climb at the Cheesewring in dry sunny weather.