Tag Archives: Mince Pie Problem

Block Party

17th May 2014

Bashers Harbour

Footloose – VS 4c – Lead
The Flake – VS 4c – Lead (Dogged)
Mince Pie Problem – Diff – Solo

Everyones entitled to do something stupid once in a while. It helps if the consequences of that stupidity wont be fatal.

Relieved and scared

Relieved and scared

In hindsight and after reading an article on UKC titled ’10 ways to stay alive while climbing’ I wish I had done things differently. Maybe taken a bit more time thinking things through. The Flake turned out to be a bit of a nightmare really. A very hard (and wet) start with a nice 2ft square moving block finale. All of which added up to Tom not being able to second me because of the danger of the whole lot going. As dodgy as my abseil looked this was not really the danger point. It was backed up by two bomber nuts. The danger was the top blocks breaking loose while I was cleaning my gear and pulverising me.

My ab belay?????

My ab belay?????

Half of my rack was commited into the climb so the consequences of not retrieving it would be expensive. But gear is meant to save your life, not put it in danger. £200-£300 is a small amount in the scheme of things. Maybe next time I’ll just leave it and renew my rack.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.

That adventure aside, the other climb we did was brilliant. Footlosse is balancy, edgy and technical. Pro is adequate but not abundent, but altogether it is a super climb. Setting up the belay can be tricky as Chris found out, having to down climb back to a safe spot. And its not comfortable, but its worth it.

The Main Face area

The Main Face area

As is all of Bashers Harbour. A lovely (if loose place), with a remote feel to it and a real spirit of adventure. We had it all on this day; falling rocks, dodgey abseils and a tide that waits for no man and nearly claimed Dave and Chris’s rucksacks, except for the quick witted Tom who leapt across the bolder field to rescue them.

Tom watching Pete on Footloose

Tom watching Pete on Footloose

 

The day ended with the demise of my long suffering Lumix Camera as it finally gave it up after having been bashed around the cliffs for 3 years and a solo on Mince Pie Route. Quite enough excitement for one day.