Tag Archives: 5c

Climbing

No footprints in the sand

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15th May 2025

Whirl Pool Buttress
Earthly Powers – E2 5c – Alt Lead

There are occasions when you find yourself outside of your comfort zone. Then there are occasions when you find yourself outside of the outside of your comfort zone. This was one of them.

From the moment I peeked over the top of the headwall while abseiling down, I knew this was going to be an adventure to remember. And it was and for all the right reasons.

All credit for Joe in finding the correct abseil point, which is important as you’ll need that rope later! And also credit to Joe for spotting that this route was going to be in condition after the dry spell we’ve had. Azure sea’s greeted us on the approach and a pristeen little beachonce we landed.

You get a birds eye view of the route on the descent, so it’s easy to see whats coming. It’s steep imposing and in the shade. Being North facing it just doesnt get the sun. This doesnt detract from its quality. Perfect granite ( a little moist in the very early stages) and moves to match.

The first pitch is the crunch one. Joe led this, reaching the reachy move out of the niche fairly quickly. Getting into the niche is not so eay either. However the stretch, is a commiting move. One which you need to get right. And Joe duly delivered. On my go, I have to be honest I felt like it could have gone either way. But as is supported by the comments on UKC, once you go, it’s not so bad.

What follows is no pushover either. A dropping rail, with little for your feet leads to a commiting rock-over. A great pitch of climbing by any standards.

My pitch was definitely easier. It meanders back and forth up the headwall. Good gear keeps the nerves at bay. I went slightly wrong at the top getting a bit off route and barndooring when I reached the grass. But the climb is over by this point, with only the hideous exit up 12ft of vertical grass to contend with.

I am so grateful to have a partner like Joe, who consistently gets me pushing myself. I would not dream of tackling a route like this, without the knowledge that I’m with someone who can get us through the tough bits.

A day that will long stay in my memory.

Climbing

When your nuts drop for the second time

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24th April 2024

Cornakey Cliff

Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead
Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second
Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead

Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.

So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.

Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.

Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.

We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.

What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.

Climbing

Right! This time I’m going… no this time… no now…

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16th November 2019

Vicarage Cliff

Pandora – VS 4b – Second
Wellingtons Stand – VS 4b – Lead
Atom Head – E1 5c – Second

Oh how your head plays tricks with you. The ugly head of indecision rears itself and then you’re up and down trying to persuade yourself that the terrifying move you want to make is fine… it wont hurt you. Even if you fall.

Back towards the waterfall

Alas, it’s not so simple. Having bottled Wellingtons Stand on my last outing here I had unfinished business. So finding myself trying to make the same tenuous move on two small crimps with a crap foot placement was no different. Except in the end I forced myself up by shear force of will. And lo and behold, it wasn’t that bad. Which is easy to say after you’ve done it without falling off.

Joe checks out Atom Head

So I thought that was going to be my epic for the day, but Joe had other ideas. Atom Head is one of the best climbs I’ve done recently. Tiny holds and foot placements. Run outs, padding, gorse, rusted pegs. You name it, its got it! What a fantastic lead by Joe. There is pro but you need to keep it together to place it and it must feel awfully lonely up there on the lead. What an end to the day. Abbing off as it started to darken gave a sense of having eked out every available bit of light and dryness available.

It was also really good to be out with Joe. Like old times 🙂 Except now he’s miles better than me. But thats an advantage, because he can get me on routes I would dream of leading myself. Cracking and Slabtastic!!

  • Where are the holds????
  • Joe checks out Atom Head
  • Storm Beach
  • Main area Vicarage Cliff
  • Back towards the waterfall
Climbing

It was the best of days… it was the worst of climbs

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22nd February 2019

Sloe Steel – VS 5a – Lead (Dgd)
Margin – E1 5c – T/R (dnf)

Continuing in the spirit of failure which has dogged my recent outings, I had a typical day of jittery nerves and low confidence. This has been a theme in my recovery from my shoulder injury. It probably stems from not having the confidence to put power through my right arm or maintain my grip in my right hand. This puts all the stress on my left and as I’m out of condition it undermines my belief.

However I look at it, my climbing is pants at the moment so I’m hoping the trip to Leonidio may kick start my season off. I have loads on my tick list for this year and last October I was on siting E1’s for fun.

Margin was an interesting climb. Very furry and at first glance looks easier than it is. The initial crack isnt too bad, but the transition into the rightward trending crack is tough and a bit tenuous. I have to say I wouldnt want to lead this as its low on gear and high on the possibility of failure. But as a top roping climb it was fun.

St Loy always makes you feel good, even if you’re off form. It helped that Tom showed us a new way into the climb which doesnt involve the long descent and climb through Boskenna. Although a perverse part of me enjoys that route, because I’m sure it pisses off the locals with all their ‘Get Orf My Land’ signs.

Climbing

No longer a Bane

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17th April 2017

Pedn-Men-An-Mere

Vespula (The Wasp) – HVS 5a – Second
Midnight Express – E1 5b – Lead
Bermuda Wall – E3 5c – Abysmal failure

Some days are seminal because they mark an occasion when you conquer a fear or overcome a reoccuring problem. Midnight Express was a benchmark climb for me. It represented a level of climbing I wanted to achieve, but one which for a number of years I came up short on.

I dont think it was because the climb was so overly difficult. In fact I’m sure I’ve led harder, but because of an early failure, it started to loom bigger in my mind than it deserved. For this reason it became a problem because I started to psych myself out of the route before I even started. Hence my grumpiness with Dave on this day and my initial overbearing desire to just give up and walk away.

Ready for Midnight Express… Bring it on!!

But i didnt and in the end it went smoothly and was well within my ability. For Dave too, this was a climb he had wanted to clean and so we both had a big grin by then end as we both sent it clean.

Dave stylin on the crux

This was of course after a warm up on the twin cracks over towards the Marconi Wall area. I’d done these before a while back (I think I called it the Scorpion because of the sting in the tail, but have since found another climb with that name at Carn Barra – so its now Vespula another name for Wasp). Joe despatched this with ease, despite it still being a tricky finish. But a good warm up never-the-less.

Dave on Vespula

St Levans was its usual magnificent self. Stunning views, gorgeous beaches and immaculate rock. Also the wild flowers this year are putting on a real display. So it was with this backdrop that Joe set about Bermuda Wall. A terrific climb. Bold to start, then a bit thuggy and then technical to finish. Everything really. And Joe did it clean which was brilliant. More than Dave or I could say. We both struggled on the opening moves. I eventually managed to get past them only to gas out on the flakes. So one to try again next time. Unfortunately it probably means Joe will have to lead it again, but hey, thats what friends are for.

Even time for a look around

Also got a bit of video this time which I’ll add shortly. Its going to be a theme this year, as I’d like to document a year in video and make a short film from it. Lets see how it goes.

Climbing

Butt Cracks and Ball Sacks

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16th Sepotember 2016

Pednvounder Beach/Logan Rock

Reach – E2 5c – TR
Charlie’s Chank Seaward Arete – 6a- Lead(Eventually)
Blondie Jams with Sepultura – HVA 5a – Second (Dgd)

As well as being one of the most beautiful beaches in Cornwall on its day, Pednvounder is also well known as a nudist spot. On this day we shared the beach with a number of naturists, but to be honest after the initial ‘oh my god, why are you letting me see that!’ you dont even notice as the climbing is absorbing and great fun. I sometimes wish I had the bottle to get in tune with nature, but I cant see that ever happening. I leave that to Tom :-).

Pednvounder Beach
Pednvounder Beach

It really is a stunning location and with the formation of a lagoon, which cut the beach in half, it had the look and feeling of being abroad. The climbing is disjointed though. The cliff here does not really run to full height with its routes. Most are on the lower, more reliable rock that comes straight off the beach. Reach is to be found in a narrow zawn a few metres after you arrive on the beach. It is easily identified as it is a seriously overhanging piece of rock.

Looks hard and is hard
Looks hard and is hard

Joe advised me that the routes here are sometimes done as highball bouldering problems. That would be a serious fall if you blew it at the top. And given the really pumpy nature of the routes that is a definite possibility. I knew the E2 would be hard, so I ‘warmed up’ on the short overhanging crack at the start of Shady Wall. Of course this was much harder than I anticipated, so I proceeded to dog it for the first few attempts. Eventually after I had enough gear in I cleaned it, but not what I would call a clean ascent! Dave however made it on his first go, just to make me feel entirely inadequate. Git…

Dave giving it the soulful walk .. "I want to be at one with nature!!!"
Dave giving it the soulful walk .. “I want to be at one with nature!!!”

Meanwhile Joe and Tom were giving it some on an impossibly hard route to the right of Reach. I think the start ended up having the beating of them but no wonder, with small holds and a major overhanging route. Reach has a hard start, but eases as you get higher. But only by degrees. It is all overhanging so even those ‘good holds’ soon feel inadequate. Having made the hard start I just kept going, thinking that I wouldnt be able to get going again so best make the best of this attempt, which eventually turned out OK, although I ached for a while just after.

Joe gets jammin
Joe gets jammin

Joe was determined to get over to Logan Rock for a jamming fest on Blondie jams with Sepultura. He got his wish, as we all gave up some skin for the cause. This was despite being taped up for the job (which is like a wax job when you take it off). The climb is tough, with problematic foot jams and a crack that doesnt quite fit your hands.

Tom gives it a go
Tom gives it a go

Joe made his way up on the lead and the three of us followed with varying degrees of success. What I would say is that it is thoroughly enjoyable, despite the pain. I’d like to try it again now, having tried once. Make a better ‘fist’ of it next time.

Mashed...
Mashed…

So, what a great day out. Fabulous views, great climbing and good friends. What more can you ask for?

Climbing

Success seems largely a matter of hanging on when others have let go

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26th August 2016

Cheesewring Quarry

Daisys Flapjack – 6a+ – Dgd (Just)
Trouble with Lichen – E3 6a – Dgd
Double Agent – 7a+ – DNF
Debutante – E3 6a – DNF
Half Route Half Boulder Problem – E3 5c – DNF

On this particular day my success rate was to be measured by the number of failures I achieved. That said, it was a really enjoyable days climbing and it made a real change to be able to unleash on a climb and not have to worry about gear or a leader fall.

I also found my level. Although I could do the moves on most of the routes, what I couldnt do was link them together in some cohesive fashion that would have enabled me to clean a whole route. But it was good to know that I could do a 6a move, even if it took me a few attempts.

Joe of course was smashing everything, but I realise that if I am to push my grade at some point this is something I’m going to have to do more of. Without actually practicing ome moves at this level I would have no idea what was in store for me.

My favourite two routes were Trouble with Lichen and Double agent. Both very technical in different ways, but both really satisfying when you had worked the moves out. TWL I managed on about my 6th attempt, but finally realised what I needed to do. DA was a case of not being strong enough. Maybe after some indoor training I’ll be able to do the upper moves, but not yet.

I think I might return to Cheeswring for a bit more ‘training’. I also fancy Warrior at some point.

Climbing

My (not so dead) dead chicken has better feet than you do!

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19th July 2016

Pentire Point
Black Zawn

Nipped in the Buddha – VS 4c – Second
Little Black Dress – EC 5B – TR
Brother Chris – E3 5c – TR (dgd)

Dave had been wittering on about NITB for ages so it was only fair to let him have his moment (of fear). NITB is one of those VS’s that doesnt look too bad until your trying to find your equilibrium as you move up into the groove. From the ground it is quite steep. From the groove it is overhanging. Either way it’s not easy.

Joe pose....
Joe pose….

After I had dropped the ab rope into the sea we dropped down onto the ledge below NITB. For a change most of the climbs were dry. Unusually.

Before the groove NITB
Before the groove NITB

The Black Zawn never really looks inviting but the truth is that there are a large number of high quality climbs here. The harder varieties suffer from a distinct lack of gear, but the moves and holds are brilliant. Most of the E numbers are on the buttress starting right of The English Way and heading all the way around to the seaward face. A awkward traverse gets you to Merchants of Menace a very good looking E2 which I think I’ll have a go at one day.

Top Groove ofNITB
Top Groove ofNITB

Dave made NITB look relatively easy, which it isnt. A sloping slab leads to difficult moves up into the groove. Then its a case of using the angles to make it easier for an exciting finale.

Dave does E2
Dave does E2

The E2 was an excellent climb, but leading it would have been a different proposition. Very little gear, particularly protecting the crux moves which were fiddly before you arrived at the jugs.

Whooo Whoo!
Whooo Whoo!

The E3 was superb. Beyond me to clean it on this day, but what a climb. It looks so unlikely from below, but as the guidebook says, miraculous holds appear when you need them. Unfortunately for me I didnt see one of the hidden miraculous holds so had to rest about half way. But for the main part it is just excellent move after excellent move. I’d love to say I’d lead this but I’d have to have a closer look at the gear first.

Boy this lad can climb.
Boy this lad can climb.

A tired group of three discussed Joes horrendous feet before a steep walk out on a stunning evening with a huge moon rising over the fields and part noises drifting across from Polzeath. The end of a good day.

Good Moon Rising
Good Moon Rising

And as a final point. How can you not know if a chicken is dead or not. Daves hutch cooked chickens some how rose from the dead – maybe they are Frankenchickens.

Climbing

Exploding Antipodian

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27th May 2016

Coastguard Cliffs – The Lizard

Aboriginal Sin – E3 – Second
Casablanca – E2 – Alt Lead
Rendezous Manque – V Diff – Lead

Sometimes you have a vision of how a climb will be. I imagine myself climbing it and invent the holds, hoping they will be as good in real life. On a beautiful sunny day, Joe and I stood below Aboriginal Sin and I considered whether I was in good enough form to actually get up it.

The guidebook describes a series of juggy flakes leading to ‘the fang’ that sticks up at the end of the steeply rising and overhanging crack. Easy then! Get on it and move quickly until you can get hold of the juggy fang.

Joe below Aboriginal Sin
Joe below Aboriginal Sin

After creating a bomber nest of gear Joe launched out for the fang and as I watched him fight with the crack and eventually grab the fang, I realised that this was going to be really tough. Of course it’s not over at this point and Joe had another sequence to negotiate before it was my turn.

Now in my mind the holds were going to be positive flakes and the main problem pure grunt. No, the main problem is that the jugs are actually rounded and not positive and so my first attempt ended in some air time. The second time I was lucky that Joe kept me on a tight rope as I used my last reserves to gratefully hug the fang, gasping for air and with my poor arms blown. Of course the exploding hold which literally dissolved in my hand didn’t inspire confidence and nearly shrugged me off again. Still, I got up it in the end and what a great feeling. Brilliant lead by Joe, who is going from strength to strength.

Dave on Silent Movie
Dave on Silent Movie

We joined Tom and Dave who were having there own route fest, baggy some of the class VS and HVS of the main cligg. These really are good climbs, if a bit bold at times.

Happy, Happy Joe :-)
Happy, Happy Joe 🙂

My initial suggestion of a VS traverse turned into a two pitch E2 after both me and Joe liked the look of Casablanca. I led the opening 5a pitch which was great fun. Not difficult, but nervy as the gear comes late. Joes lead of the top crack was another stirling effort. My try ended up with me jammed in the crack facing the wrong way. It was only when I extricated myself and faced the right way that the finishing moves became possible. Still a really good route and maybe I’ll try the top crack on the lead next time if I’m feeling brave.

Before the hard move
Before the hard move

Joe and I finished up a V Diff chimney (great…?) with a laughable belay on boulders that were more likely to kill you than save you. And so at the end of a hot, sunny and memorable day it was icecreams/drinks and a contented drive home.

Get a shave
Get a shave

Uhmm. Are you an ‘inny’ or an ‘outy’

Climbing

Climb Hard with a vengence

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19th March 2016

Pelitras Point

Lardus – E2 5c – TR
Red Snapper – E2 5c – TR

Now I will readily admit I dont often Top Rope, but there are some days when it is by far the best choice. This of course was one of them. It was overcast, cold and there was a chill SE blowing.

Pelitras is an amazing piece of rock, but in general the climbs here are hard. The easier variations all looked a bit wet and un-appealing, so Joe kindly set up a top rope. It was nice to sit back and let someone else organise my climbing, although I did my best to try and get the tr in the wrong place.

It was good to really test myself against something harder and both climbs delivered on the front. Red snapper has some hard opening moves to get established and then a perplexing move on the upper arete. This is off balance and the climb forces you to come at the holds from the wrong direction. Still, I got it in the end and was mighty releived.

Lardus is all about the top crack. Joe reckoned harder than 5c and I would agree, not that I’m that familiar with 5c but i can normally haul my arse up 5c. I dont know about 6a. Got it on my second attempt but only just.

I want to return here and bag all the VS’s and maybe something a bit harder, but on a sunny day perhaps.