Tag Archives: Trewavas

6 go wild at Trewarvas

Well, to be honest there was no wildness at all, but it felt great to be out at last after lock-down. This was mine (and most of the rest of the group’s) first outing on the rock post COVID 19 round 1. And it felt good to be back on the rock.

Crew chilling. Is Pete going to jump.

Lock-down has been OK on the whole for me, with a massive increase in my surfing and MTB’ing activity. But there’s nothing like climbing.

First things first. Piers is now a qualified Ski Tour instructor. What a fantastic achievement. All we need now is to get away with him and get into the back country in the alps. Might have to brush up on my skiing though 🙂

Avalanche with its great top section

This was a chilled session with Tom, Dave, Chris, Piers, Pete and me. All top roping so no drama, with the exception of Pete trying his best to kill himself by falling off the top of the crag – fortunately while still attached to the top rope and with Chris using a Gri-Gri. Funny; but also not funny.

Chris and I remembered that we still have muscles although very unused ones with a voyage up both variations of Avalanche and by finishing on South Groove. Always one to make you think, grunt and swear. Most importantly we were on the magical cliffs of Cornwall. About time this was re-awakened.

Who needs to go abroad

Now to get my lead head back on and start eyeing up thiose pesky E1’s I’ve had on the list for a while. Oh and the big elephant in the room E2. Dave and I have unfinished business with that one!

Time to go back to Skool

7th April 2016


Joy Direct – VS 4c – Lead
William’s Chiney – HVS 5b – Lead

Your laces should not really be an issue in climbing, unless you lose the ability to tie them. This seemed to be the case on Williams Chimney with both of mine coming undone. The Virgo in me then kicked in and I couldnt get settled until I’d re-tied them. What a faff. Back to school then where I can learn to double knot them.

Shoes aside it was a great afternoon. First time back at Trewavas for a while and two good climbs bagged.

Joy Direct is a climb I mistakenly thought I had already done. I have done Joy and I have done a variation which breaks left, but not the correct route. So this was a good one to pick. Except that it was a lot more difficult than I thought from the bottom. Gear is good, but you place it on power. The route is slight akilter, so you’re never really comfortable. And it sprobably not the best warm up as your straight into it. Still good fun, although Dave had a traumatic time trying to remove a nut stuchk on the crux. His arm’ ees were soon sorted out and I think it took the rest of the session for him to recover.

Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney

Dave approaching the chimney on Williams Chimney

Williams chimney I knew would be reasonably tough, but I didnt realise how good it was. A bit of everything- thin groove and face climbing, crimpy pulls and a narrow chimney. For me the crux was lower down negotiating the groove. For Dave it was the move into the chimney where my height probably gave me the advantage. Only just 5b and definitely more HVS than E1 which some have suggested. That said it is top of its grade.

The walk out on a perfect evening

The walk out on a perfect evening

Still a really satisfying climb and a good bit of progression in what has been a poor year so far for climbing. I now need to return and do South Groove and West Wing. A definite for my next trip there.

So much to choose from

28th June 2012

Trewavas East Buttress

Mascara – VS 4c – Lead
Sams Indirect finish to bending chimney – VS 4c – Second

We needed somewhere dry and not blown away by the fresh breeze and Trewavas seemed a fair bet. For Chris it was his first visit and for Dave it was a return after a fairly lengthy break. In fact when he was last here I was just starting off with my own climbing and I remember well how I struggled to get going on Joy.


On this excursion I picked an adjacent climb called Mascara. I’d seen a photo online and ever since wanted to have a crack at it. The initial section is straight forward until you reach the top of the corner underneath the overhang,

The scary bit on Mascara

Then it gets interesting. A long bridge opens up the arete and you need to swing out and pull up onto the face around the corner. Tricky but just keep looking for the  holds and you’ll find them.

Chris getting flexible with Mascara

I actually found the top crack the most nervewracking, because of the lack of decent pro. It’s not difficult but adds an edge to the end of the climb. Mascara gets a thumbs up in my book though. A top climb.

Bending Chimney - A classic route

Deviously I suggested Sams indirect finish to Bending Chimney as a possible lead for Chris. Having done the top section as part of Flanker a few weeks back with Pete I knew what he was in for.

Probably the crux move on SIFTBC

And it didnt disappoint. Chris cruised through the chimney and came to an abrupt stop at the base of the crack. The usual result in my experience.

Dave trying a layback on SIFTBC

The biggest factor is the sudden exposure and then going from relatively relaxed climbing in the chimney to strenuous work getting up the initial part. of the narrow crack. With the pump on from the start Chris found himself running out of energy with 3 feet to go. The result was a desperate push for the top  before the arms gave out. This time Chris made it and deprived us of the spectacle of a lob off the steep face. A really top effort.

Dave on the top crack of SIFTBC

With so many climbs in a small area we’ve plenty more to go back to. Including South Groove an E1  I ‘ve been meaning to have a go at for a while.


You cant climb without ropes

23rd June 2010
Trewavas Main Crag – West Face

Bending Chimney – V Diff – Lead
Cornel – HS 4b – Lead

This was the first of what will hopefully be many evening sessions at Trewavas. With the amazing weather we’ve had recently the crags are bone dry and in great condition…. in fact it’s better when they’ve cooled down a bit.


As this was Pete’s first experience with double ropes, we started on a classic V Diff. Bending Chimney is the most prominent feature of Trewavas. You can see it from the coast path as you walk in and it is striking. its also great fun to climb. The bottom section is straight forward with a tricky move across to the bottom of the final chimney. But its the main chimnet that is best, squeezing up and emerging through a slit in the slab above.

We had set up an abseil to make things quicker for descending and after showing Pete how to use a prusic and watching him test it fully by releasing all control (which nearly took both of us over the edge – we were tied in so we wouldnt have gone far) we dropped down to start climbing. However….. without ropes its hard, so I had to walk back up and fetch them.


Cornel is a bit harder and hard to protect in the top section without a big CAM. Mine was just big enough, although a backup of a chock helps. Remember your seconder needs small hands to retrieve it though as it sits back very deeply in the crack. The climbing though is good, some bridging and an akward mantelshelf to finish with.


All in all though a good session. Next week we’ll try the East face and some of the slightly longer routes.