15th November 2019
Predannack Head
The Beginners Area
Sexygenarians – V Diff – Lead
Moonlight – VS 4c – Lead
Zig Zag _Mod – Alt Lead
Weeks of rain and shit weather led to this. A fleeting chance to get out for a climb in a weather window predicted by BBC weather. My poll on Facebook suggested Porthguarnon which was t’the peoples’ choice. But what do they know! I over-ruled them as any good dictator would and so we headed for the Lizard, the one area predicted to be dry.
And yes it was. The doom and gloom ‘its too cold to be outside’ mob off the telly f@#ked up good and proper. We had sunshine almost all day and a totally chilled session in an area only 10 mins from the car. Bliss.
The Beginners Area is easy to find as long as you pick up your bearings on The Diamond Wall. Also it helps to know that North (as per the guidebook) is down the coast to the right facing out to sea. Very disorientating when its not strictly ‘North’.
I paired up with Pete (his first climb of the year! no less). So we started on a nice crack climb, Sexygenarians which is straight forward but nice climbing. Its amazing when you haven’t been on the rock for a while how alien everything seems until you get back into your rhythm. By time we moved onto Moonlight, a technical VS I still wasnt quite on it, hence the mad attack of disco leg which Pete could even feel through the ropes. Anyway, it went well after a nervy start. And it made me feel better getting a more difficult route under my belt.
Our final routre was Zig Zag, as sets thundered into the cove below. Very atmospheric and warranting a quick belay station about 5 metres up to avoid Pete getting swept away by a rogue set. Its basically a easy ramp, but with great exposure and even a waterfall at the end. What more could you want.
Days like this are precious. Sun, great mates and great climbing. Take your packed lineups and stuff them up your arse. We had this to ourselves. Viva the outdoors and viva Cornish Rock!
Gripped!!! Zig Zag, looking harder than it is. The crashing waves made it feel epic. 
Pete fiddling on Moonlight a solid VS Sunshine after so many days of rain! 
A jury rigged abseil. Did the job. We didn’t die. That’s a result. Pete on Sexygenarians 
Just wanted to say I love reading your website from time to time. As a fellow disillusioned former surfer, surfing more and more infrequently having, climbing too has filled the void for me and me and a couple of friends spend good days out exploring the Lizard and trying to get out heads and bearings round all the zawns and the changing landscape of it with rockfall!
Hope you are keeping well and perhaps see you out and about sometime!
Briggsy
Hi Briggsy, good to hear from another disillusioned surfer 🙂 . Like you I love climbing round the Lizard. Always a great day out. My blog is probably not the most informative for most people. It’s really just a way of keeping track of the great days out I have with my mates. But I do keep loads of photos. I’ve published another one on the post – https://www.magikrock.co.uk/2023/04/the-mind-is-willing/ On this I’ve marked what I think is the line of Adder Skin. It is a really good route and another really good one to look at is Textural Pleasure which is around the corner near Zig Zag S 4a but good holds and gear as I remember.. Hope this helps
Hi Dilwat,
Thanks so much for your reply, and yes – that line looks like what we thought was ‘Adder Skin’ – so I’m glad we were in the right place…. sometimes as I’m sure you well know you can kind of convince yourself that the book description matches the different scene infront of your eyes at the base of some zawn or crag!
Yeah its always a good adventure down there, I think il head back there this week or weekend so will check out the climb ‘Textural Pleasure,’ – in fact it was one of the routes I was hoping to get on today from your comment on UKC saying it was good!
All the best, and thanks for your help!
Briggsy
After you reminded me of Adder Skin I went back yesterday and did the variation finish. Awkward move into the steep crack but a good climb.