Tag Archives: Dave

What Euromillions can do for you

September 18, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

18th September 2024

Boswednack Cliff
No Justice – V Diff – Second
Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second

Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.

Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.

I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.

Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice

Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.

Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice

Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!

I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.

The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.

Climbing

This snake bites a bit

September 12, 2024 dillwat 1 Comment

12th September 2024

Predannack Head – Beginners Area

Adder Skin (Variation Finish) – VS 5a – Lead
Zig Zag – Mod – Second

A recent online chat reminded me of a different finish to Adder Skin. I’d done the original which is excellent in it’s own right, but the vertical crack arising from the original face is a tempting line. Also the wind and conditions meant this area was at least partly sheltered on a NW.

It was also great to have Dave back with us. Although maybe a bit unfair to launch him at a really tricky VS for a starter. The climb is all about the move into the crack. I found it hard to get a good high piece of gear in (which I really wanted as a fall would mean a bounce off the face below) because to see into the crack require some delicate manoeuvring. Once you’ve got the gear though you can launch at it.

Dave moving into the crack of Adder Skin Variation VS 5a

Its not as burly as you might imagine from the ground. More a case of judicious use of the foot placements and committing out onto the left hand face. A really good climb imo. Chris and I commented that we’ve been lucky recently to bag a succession of great routes. Chris climbed it very smoothly, obviously finding the holds to unlock it first time.

And Dave got to lead Zig Zag. Not hard climbing, but loads of exposure and a brilliant route. One of my favourite on the Headland, just because of how it slants up a really imposing slab. So good.

Fantasia E2 5b – Through the twin horizontal breaks into the niche and then up the headwall.

I also checked out Fantasia, the E2 at the bottom of the ramp. Will be doing that next time I’m here for sure.

Climbing

The case of the mysteriously re-appearing nuts….

August 29, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

29th August 2024

The Rumps – Pentire Head
Regular – Severe 4b – Lead
Pass the Duchy – HS 4b – Lead

So The Rumps is fast becoming a favourite of mine for a quick, no frills outing. Easy to get to from the National Trust car park and short, but challenging climbs.

Both the Severe’s I’ve done here have been on the tough side. Leaning out a lot and making you work. The rock, while grippy, feels a little unreliable, but so far it has held up fine, so maybe this is unjustified.

Its nice to find a relatively local crag which isnt all E+’s. There are a couple of HVS’s so the challenge is still there for the future.

Ian and Dave were all smiles as well. The view helps too, with breathtaking vista’s back towards Doyden and across ‘The Mools’, the small island off the coast. I’m starting to get the ‘proper’ buzz again. All the wall work is paying dividends, and I rekon soon it’ll be time to take on a few E’s (they’re good dont you know 🙂 )

Climbing

Three people short of a full deck

May 24, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

24th-25th May 2024

Predannack Head and Pen Olver

Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead
Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second
The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second
Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead

Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.

Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.

Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.

A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.

And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.

Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.

Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.

Climbing

I am a washing machine repair god!

April 18, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

18th April 2024

Pordenack Point

Helmet Ridge Direct – HS 4b – Second

Little Cracker – Severe 4a – Lead

With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.

Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough

Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.

Climbing

Getting cold feet

March 21, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

21st March 2024

Bosigran
Shorl Slant/Black Vein North – Severe – Alt Lead

Well it was unexpectedly cold. I thought the wind would be coming over our heads but it swung to the west. Much of Bosi is understandably still wet, so we abandoned the idea of Zig Zag and headed for the Ochre slab area.

Weirdly we have somehow missed Shorl Slant in our many ventures to this area. Following the black vein its a rough, crystalline route which is a lot steeper than it looks. The Black Vein alternative finish seemed a better choice as well. But it was sooo cold.

Its all we managed on this day. Worth the trek to Bosi just to get out in what has been the wettest winter I can remember. As a bonus, Dave led his first pitch (P2) for a while. Major progress in getting back to his old form and what must be a massive confidence booster.

Climbing

When its Howlin

March 7, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

7th March 2024

Pellitras Point

Poor choice for a crag location when its a howling South Easterly, so climbing was always going to be very iffy. But it was a good opportunity to have a mooch and explore the area in a bit more detail.

And the mooch of course turned into a solo adventure as Dave and I traversed the back of the headland. This included a sketchy crawl through a gap and some tenuous smearing and ledges. Good for the adrenaline and with added spice because of the wind.

Pellitras is a place to return to. There are a few parts to it, but the one we were looking at was the Buttress with two tough but great looking VS/HVS’s (Las Meninas and Facsimile). We’ll be back for these.

And finally we had the howling dogs, a good accompaniment to the wind for the walk back through the mud. They always make me giggle. All bark and no teeth.

Climbing

A Tough Crowd to Please

February 1, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

1st February 2024

Bass Point

Meteor – VS 4b – Lead
Three Tiers (Variation Finish) – HVS 5b – Lead

If I’m honest, my target for this day was Kafka’s Wound, an HVS in the Micronut Wall area of Green Lanes Cliff. However the tide was still a bit full, so we returned to the Cull area.

I’m still struggling with moving up the grades. Confidence really, but time at the wall has helped me trust my endurance and strength, so jumping in at VS seemed ok.

Comet is a climb which gradually gets harder, culminating in a steep top wall with dubious rock and nervy gear. Its a great climb to get your head in the game and Dave and me were ready to up the anti.

Three Tiers is just that. A blocky but easy bottom tier which we solo’d. Followed by a steep wall with small holds and foot placements and little gear. Followed by a steep, slightly thuggy headwall which just completes a challenging overall climb.

Dave on the upper tier headwall of Three Tiers

Finding gear on the second tier was a real mission. I ended up with a shocking cam and a solid micronut in a split which didn’t look like it would last long under load. Still I didn’t need it, but the climbing is technical and thoughtful. I loved it. Dave also had the biggest smile when he topped out. And its testament to how much he’s come along since getting back into climbing, that he got up an HVS. And 5b no less!

Meanwhile Chris and Tom were also pushing, with Chris getting on Meteor as well and providing a very vocal audience for Dave while he climbed Three Tiers.

Kafka awaits……

Climbing

The Tide waits for no man

November 24, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

24th November 2023

Lighthouse Cliffs – Lizard

Gigging – Severe 4a – Lead
Long Time No Sea – V Diff – Lead

Well it was a good choice of crag for the weather, but a poor one with regard to tide times. Our second look at Lighthouse Cliffs was slightly better than our first when the swell was pumping through. Having said that, me and Dave still managed to get wet. Turns out our belay ledge wasnt high enough above the pushing swell!

We now have a pretty good idea of the layout of the crag. Once you have your bearings it all falls together. Which also describes some of the rock quality. In the lower sections it tends to be a bit sounder, but as you get higher it degrades.

Gigging was definitely in this category. We belayed on a small but higher ledge because of the swell and tide. This meant traversing across onto the main wall which was ok, but the more you progressed the crumblier things got. It gets a star in the guide, but I dont think it really warrants one. Its not particularly memorable. Although watching Dave get hit by a set wave was quite memorable.

We’ve definitely earmarked a number fo routes we want to get on, so I’m certain we’ll be back shortly. Next time at low tide with no swell though.

Climbing

The Many Faces of Barry D

October 7, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

6th October 2023

Tater Du

Bounce – HVS 5a – T/R
Worry – E2 5c – T/R
Eric’s Route – Severe 4a – Lead

We have all been to that place in climbing, when your body stops behaving and wont do what you want it to. It was Barry’s turn to find the point where he burns out completely occurred today. Multiple attempts on a burly HVS resulted in little left for our final Severe.

Looking across the boulder field of St Loy

I could see the energy draining from him as he gradually progressed up the route and his change in facial expression. To Barry’s credit he never gave up, meaning he topped out with arms of the same texture as solid steel. Lactic Acid I think does this to you.

Still, as days out climbing go this was a good one. Tater Du is always fun to visit, but its also a real effort. The walk in through St Loy and across Boscowen Headland is second to none however for its beauty. And Tater Du always reminds me of a painting more than a cliff.

And there were dolphins!

The reason for all the muscle ache was that we dropped down to the seaward craglets. If I am honest, I was not so impressed with this area. It pales in comparison to TD proper. It is really a series of boulder problems, all be it a bit highball in places. But they do present some tough climbing, but with little gear for the most part.

Erics route was much nicer, with good moves and lots of exposure at the top. A thoroughly good way to finish the day.

I do like these team days out. The company is always great and it has more of a social feel to it. It was also really good to see Tony out again after a gap, and climbing really well. It bodes well for future trips. Bring on the next one.