Ian’s Top 5 Cornish VS’s

Acid Test – VS 4c – Tregiffian

Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.

A gem of a climb in one of the most beautiful locations on the South Coast. The walk into the crag just adds to the whole adventure. You need to think lateraly for this one. Good pro helps to ease the situation.

Our Stars Our Sky- VS 4c – Pentire Head (Shield Wall)

Ian about to disappear onto the face – never to be heard again!

Something a bit different from your average route. Climb up to the ramp and then head out on a brilliant adventure across the face of the Shield. Other than keeping your seconds welfare in mind you might want to consider how you communicate with each other? One of my all time favorite routes.

White Russians – VS 4c – Black Head

Dave moving onto the ramp

Getting to the point takes you along some fantastic coastline. Navigation can be awkward as its not obvious where the hidden amphitheatre is but its worth seeking out. Straight forward slab climbing leads to the highlight of this one. The sudden exposure is amazing. Watch out for the Jenga rock!

The Royal Forrester – VS 4c – Zennor Head

Ian on the crux of Royal Forrester.

The higher you get the better it gets. The crux is the overhang, but the its the height on this one. The Zawn below opens up making this a fantastic adventure with brilliant moves and atmosphere.

Weasel – VS 4 – Carn Barra

The first crux of Weasle.

Not renown as one of Carn Barra’s classics but the number one VS in my books. Two crux’s no less, both well protected but needing some commitment from the leader.


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