Sundance is by no means the best HS at Gowla, but the ab down to the ledge at the bottom of Rainbow Games is one to set the pulse going. It’s been a while since I climbed here. I think the last time was when a group of us top roped the two E2’s here and that must be going back to 2012!
Looking at Rainbow Games I still get the urge to have a crack on the lead. I think realistically this will have to be after I’ve had my hip done, but it’s there and calling….
Sundance is as described. Pleasant. I think it falls nearer Severe than HS. Possibly the pro might up the severity rating, but the climbing is straight forward. Mike and I cruised this one. We split the climb just above the rib and Mike led the final section. First lead in a long time I think and Gowla at that.
We were cheated out of our usual amazing sunset by a cloud bank. And boy are the evenings drawing in fast now. It wont be long before the evening sessions will have to wait for spring. I would add that for anyone thinking of climbing this buttress the walk in and out is steep. I must do something about how heavy my climbing pack is. Probably sneeking it into Mikes might be a good bet 🙂
Axis – VS 5a – Lead Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)
So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.
Looking down the line of Axis
Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.
Chris D on Axis
Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.
We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.
I’m sure that’s a jam
This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.
Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.
I think everyone has those moments where they discuss what they would do if they won the lottery. My particular dream is a house that sits overlooking Treen Cove. I think in todays world they would never have got permission to build it where it is, but it looks like it may be a relic of the mining age, sat between two old mine buildings. Whatever the reason I would live it. But the lottery may be the only way I ever get a look in, unless I resort to more nefarious means. But that leads to darkness…
Amazing
However one dream that could be realised on this day for Chris D and me was the amazing journey into and out of Right Angle. A pretty unique climb for Cornwall, with a traverse in heading towards a creepy sounding cave that booms and gurgles at you for the whole trip.
Start of the traverse in
Then a climb up the corner on great holds and with reassuring pro. It is pure adventure and gets you into a location which is uncommon at the grade. I think this is a must for anyone who climbs in Cornwall. A kind of right of passage.
The VS 4b option
And at the end of it all there is the pub, The Gurnards Head (you can never be sure what colour it’s going to be, but always a landmark. Whenever I see the pub I know I’m in climbing country which gets me excited. It’s also the home of imaginary Dave, whoever that might be???
You can always rely on a climbing guide to send you all over the cliff looking for a venue. It’s not always just a case of identifying the climb. Sometimes you cant even find the friggin crag!
The line of the elusive Silverfish HS 4b
This was the thrid time I’d looked for Silverfish and Mike and me were not giving up this time. Even when we found the climb we didnt realise it. It’s described as 90ft in the ook, but in reality it’s much more akin to 50ft. We could, of course , have done the common place mistake of mistakenly identifying the climb. So maybe we didnt even do Silverfish. Who knows? As a whole it fit the bill. It was on the front of the buttress and had a top slab. Tick.
An infrequent rest spot.
To be fair, our exploring took us to a beautiful grassy platform, far away from the coast path and with amazing views of the coastline and eventual sunset. Not a bad place to spend an evening.
Mike making it to the top vegetated slab
The climb itself proves harder than it looks. It is full 3d climbing and constantly tries to send you off balance. Good holds, and good foot placements, just not at the same time. The result is that it is more strenuous then expected. Pro is good though, but be careful of rope drag as it’s easy to get the rope jamming in the cracks.
Margaritas
Mike, not having climbing much recently, had a muscle re-awakening, the result of which was a full on pump. But to his credit he made it after some serious puffing.
Then it was time for Margherita’s on the lawn while watch a spectacular sunset. Thanks once again Cornwall.
That bloody ab rope. Mike and I have issues with this rope. It always ends up depositing us about 15-20ft above where we need to be. Hence the need for a bit of nervy soloing to get to the starting slab of Stone Table. We’re using a 40m rope, but next time I’ll bring the 60m.
This time we abbed down mucky gulley (yet another way down) using the same stake as for C Land Super. Quite a bit of crumbly stuff at the top of the ab, but the climb is on good rock for the most part.
The start of Stone Table
It’s a tale of two crux’s, with fairly straight for ward climbing at about Diff in between. The first is an energetic layback with great holds as long as you dont ruin them with clever gear placement haha. The second a mantelshelf onto a short wall, which is exposed, but not too difficult (although you need to hunt out the gear placements).
Cligga really is an adventure climbing paradice. For somewhere that is just round the corner from Perranporth, it has a remote, wild feeling to it. Probably because of the commitment to get in. But also becasue you never see anyone here, except the odd kayaker and seal.
So glad we’ve returned to this venue and for evening hits it’s brilliant. The sunsets arnt bad either, especially when you can wash it down with a warm can of Tribute.
Little White Jug – V Diff – Lead Flared Nostrils – HS 4b – Lead (rpt)
As you get older I think you are meant to learn from past experiences. So having shredded myself on Flared Nostrils last time following Chris up, I figured I’d do it again, this time whilst leading. Not my best decision.
It looks so innocuous from below. But it pushes you out and you end up needing to jam on sharp crystals. It’s not that pleasant really so why did I do it again. I of course blame Barry who given a choice selected it. Possibly he and Craig regreted this decision as they too bled for the cause.
Craig on the deceptive ‘Flared Nostrils’
It was though another great day out in such a beautiful part of the county. We are blessed to have this on our doorstep, and as yet we are untouched by the crowds elsewhere in the uk.
The not so easy decent route
I think Barry and Craig had a good day. Vessacks West is ideal for novice climbers and is a good place to ‘learn the ropes’. Maybe next time we’ll try something a bit higher and get some exposure involved.
Mike and me are making a habit of these evening climbs. They are encouraging us to do a bit more local exploration, which I have to be honest and say should have been the case anyway.
Redwalls Crag – Pentire
This evening saw a return to Pentire Head and the Redwall area. Really easy access from the Pentire Farm car park. Just follow the main track to the coast and drop down right of the bench. It looks like you should go left, but the right gulley allows you to arc around to the face. It’s also out the wind when it’s South Westerly.
I’d previously done a couple of climbs on this wall, but had missed the HS, so me and Mike set up for what we thought would be a straight forward route. It was in a way, but the opening steep and awkward corner catches you out, meaning it’s easy to get pumped. We split it into two pitches which seemed sensible. The second up the tall corner is well protected and has good holds. The rock appears more fragile, but I had no breakages, although some holds you wouldnt want to yard on. Both of us were pretty knackered by time we finished. I still dont feel quite climbing fit. More work needed on endurance.
Top section of Joseph Bell HS 4b
The belay at the top is awkward. There’s a very old stake which is decidedly dubious, but would probably hold. You can find placements in the little rock crowns scattered behind, but I’d advise using multiple anchors.
The weather wasnt the bright sunshine of our previous outings. Much more forbidding, but the light created a bit of a Jurrasic Park feel to the area. Still amazingly beautiful.
Upton Slabs/Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle Two Pints To Capel – VS 4b – Lead Pewter Crack – VS 4c – Second Foaming Jugs – HVS 5a – T/R dnf
It’s not often that I’ve run out of quickdrawers and this was not really the time for me to do it. It definitely made for a very nervy and exciting finish to Two Pints to Capel.
As a VS I was not expecting a route which felt so bold. The rock was the main issue, being unreliable on many occasions and this sows the seeds of doubt about gear placement. There are some good pieces, but a lot are small wire slots which I would not like to load, particularly in a leader fall.
The line of Two Pints to Capel follows the ab rope
The fact I ran out of quickdrawers and cams is testimony to how much gear I placed. It’s a long route, that accumulates in your toes. I found it tested my calmness to it’s limit. At one point, 8ft above my last piece of dubious gear (micro nut) I did question my life choices. Of course as soon as I toped out, it became the best route I’d climbed in ages. It’s all a case of the moment.
Joe just about to move onto the upper headwall
Our next destination was almost as opposite as you could get. A leaning stack of rock. Good gear, big holds but overhanging and very powerful. A proper contrast.
Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle
Joe dispatched the VS, but we chose to top rope the HVS. In hindsight, it was well within Joe’s capabilities, but when you havnt been climbing as often, a sense of doubt quickly sets in. It was too much for me with my puny muscles, but it was a great route. I’d like to return with more bravado and power. Maybe then it is within my sights.
Pewter Crack
So two crags in one day. Not bad. Good to see Joe again as always and good to climb ‘up North’. Will return soon.
So Vessacks West is a good place for grabbing a load of ticks (albeit in mainly lower grades). But despite their apparent straightforwardness, these felt like good routes. Excellent positive granite and a great setting made for a really enjoyable day.
Sometimes I feel we get sucked into the harder is better scenarios. I would agree that completing a hard route comes with a lot of satisfaction and a great sense of achievement. But you can get lost in this, to the point where you ignore the amazing feeling of just climbing with no fear and the ability to take in your surroundings fully.
Chris on High Flyer
Chris and I had so much fun this day. I want more occasions like this, where lunch is just as important as the climbs. The crag is quite short, so you can literally be up and down in no time at all. Then its on to the neighbour. The photos speak for themselves.
The Rumps – Pentire Head Regular – Severe 4b – Lead Pass the Duchy – HS 4b – Lead
So The Rumps is fast becoming a favourite of mine for a quick, no frills outing. Easy to get to from the National Trust car park and short, but challenging climbs.
Sunflowers on Pentire Head
Both the Severe’s I’ve done here have been on the tough side. Leaning out a lot and making you work. The rock, while grippy, feels a little unreliable, but so far it has held up fine, so maybe this is unjustified.
The Lower Tier
Its nice to find a relatively local crag which isnt all E+’s. There are a couple of HVS’s so the challenge is still there for the future.
Ian on Pass the Duchy (Upper Tier)
Ian and Dave were all smiles as well. The view helps too, with breathtaking vista’s back towards Doyden and across ‘The Mools’, the small island off the coast. I’m starting to get the ‘proper’ buzz again. All the wall work is paying dividends, and I rekon soon it’ll be time to take on a few E’s (they’re good dont you know 🙂 )
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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