Tag Archives: Axis

Climbing

What a difference a day…. 14years makes

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11th August 2026

Carn Barra

Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)

So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.

Looking down the line of Axis

Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.

Chris D on Axis

Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.

We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.

I’m sure that’s a jam

This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.

Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.

Climbing

Old Favorites

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19th September 2015
Carn Barra

Super Crack – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Fourteen Fathoms – E2 5c – Second

I’ve been to Porthgwarra loads of times but never considered parking up nearer the junction to the l-bend. It is in fact a nicer walk in, if a little bit longer, down blackberry walled lanes and it brings you out in the Carn Les Boels area a bit further south. Ideal for Carn Barra and crags south of here.

Jamming
Jamming

I knew Nick had has eye on one of the E2’s at Carn Barra, but we started on the upper tier, on Super Crack. I remember this being really good the first time around and this time was just as much fun. Pitch 1 is a bit nervy on the top slab, but is good climbing with small holds and neat little moves. The top pitch is great, with more strenuous jamming and laybacking. A really top VS.

And so to Fourteen Fathoms. It has good climbing throughout and the bottom section (with the exception of the bold and bouldery lower face) is reasonably protected. Once onto the upper face, protection possibilities are there (the crux has some good gear) but the climbing becomes harder and the crux move is tough. It took Nick a while to figure it out (how he hangs around for so long I’ll never know) but in the end it is about strength and commitment.

Steep!! And hard....
Steep!! And hard….

On my turn I had just as many issues and probably made the move by the skin of my teeth. My arms by this time were shot so it was with relief that I moved up a bit for a rest before dropping back a few fet to get the remaining gear out. Really pleased to have done this though.

Nick on the crux of Fourteen Fathoms
Nick on the crux of Fourteen Fathoms

We finished on Axis, where Dave joined us. This was so that I could climb it throughout. My previous attemt had just been from the upper ledge. I made the lower moves, but I cant say I made a good fist of them. I grabbed the edge of the lower shelf with relief in the end. After this thought the route went easily for me, so I was pleased with this. The first time I remember it being a real struggle.

A good day at CB and nice to climb with Nick again. Must do this more often. Next ‘American Dream’ 🙂

 

Climbing

Two of a kind

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28th October 2011
Carn Barra
Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Axis – VS 5a – Lead

A glorious Friday provided a perfect setting for a trip to Carn Barra. I thought I’d go for a couple of stiff VS’s having seen how well Tom and Dave climbed on our last outing to Pordenack Point.

The ab in

This turned out to be a good and bad decision. I wanted to lead both, but adding the extra dimension of seconding and removing gear is a lot tougher than maybe I’d factored in. Carn Barra is a stunning setting. Golden granite and solitude are typical and the quality fo climbs is second to none.

Weasle

Weasle

Weasle is a low tide, low swell climb. Rising from right to left its two main features are overhangs which have to be negotiated with exposed and slightly wild moves out onto the face. Its a brilliant strenuous route and has risen to one of my favorite. Negotiating the first overhang is a bit heart in mouth until you find the better holds – its well protected but is exposed enough to get the heart pumping.

Tom on Weasle

Dave on Weasle

The top crack is brilliant. I did the left hand variation which is a little harder but more fun and continues the line of the main crack. Because of the angle of the crack, footwork plays a big part and some of the moves can be a bit baffling. Despite a short spell of confusion on the second overhang, Tom worked it out and negotiated the top wall. For Dave, unfortunately a stuck chock (which is still there) , put paid to a clean ascent as he spent a considerable amount of time trying to get it out and in doing so blew his arms. In the end he pushed himself to finish on spent muscles and no grip. A great effort.

Axis - the bit I didnt make

Axis extends the strenuous nature of Weasle, but is steeper. The short bottom wall is difficult and not really protectable. With my knee I decided to give it a miss and solo’d up the first part of Dialectic. As it turned out I too ran out of steam on this one. The crack was a bit wet and short slip half way up cost me the onsite. It also caused me to faf around for 5 minutes trying to put in gear when the correct choice was to move on. I’m going to come back soon and complete the climb in full, bottom wall and all.

Dave on Axis

 

Ian on Axis

Both Tom and Dave clearly found this one easier than Weasle, because they both cleaned it – although I had to ab down to retrieve some left gear. Still it gave me another opportunity to climb the crack again which I did. By this time we were rapidly running out of daylight so a nice slow walk back along the stunningly beautiful and quiet coastpath capped off a great day out.

Packing up

 

Carn Barra Shadow