Tag Archives: 4a

Climbing

Nobody goes full Lichen

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16th September 2026

Bass Point

Haileys Corner – HS 4a – Lead
Ford Prefect – E1 5b – Lead/TR (dogged)

Well the idea of doing some DWS didnt last beyond the first few waves we saw breaking into the gulley at Micronut Wall. It might have been possible but Chris D and I dont know the depth under the routes and with so much water swirling you couldnt tell today. So we’ll leave that for another day.

Bit too wild for DWS

With the tide being quite high, Bass Point beckoned and there were a couple of routes I had my eye on. As it turned out our main target turned out to be something completely different. A warm up on the always great Haileys Corner meant we walked past the eye catching crack of Ford Prefect. I say this with a wry smile, because Ford Prefect is a full on hand jamming crack that also happens to be overhanging.

Chris Cruising on Haileys Corner

I’m not so good at hand jamming and I definitely struggle when things get overhanging. So yeh, let’s go for this! To be fair, it looked well protected and I really fancied trying something different. And this ticked all the boxes. Once Chris had found me (my cleverly co-ordinated attire combining yellows, greens and browns blended perfectly with the rock here) I set off. From below it doesnt look overhanging, but once you’re on it it quickly becomes apparent.

The steep and tough Ford Prefect E1 5b

I actually feel I didnt climb it too badly. I lacked conviction which probably was my main downfall so failed at the first crux and lowered off. But ultimately this route has taught me a lot. We dropped a top line down so that Chris could show me how it’s done although I think he too found the final few metres, which push you out quite a bit, tough.

All como’d up

I almost made it, coming off in the last few feet. I might make this a benchmark for how well I’m doing on jamming. It is well protected so relatively safe and maybe I can hope to lead it through at some point.

Once again we felt very privileged to spend the day in such a beautiful place. Remote, with spectacular views, the arrival back at The Lizard car park was almost surreal as crowds suddenly appeared and life returned to normal. Some Roskilly’s helped to bring a great day to an end. Just got to get back for the DWS. Next summer I’m thinking now, unless we have another heatwave.

Climbing

Lands End does Strictly

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27th August 2026

Lands End – Hotel Buttress

Lands End Long Climb – HVD 4a – Alt Lead

Just how twisted can your ropes get during a climb. Well the answer is twisted enough to dance your way all the way up 7 pitches. For some reason, however we ran the pitch, the rope always crossed over requiring a lot of spinning. It was like doing the Salsa.

The rain marches past

Last time out, me and Chris S got rained off. It almost happened again. Standing on the belay ledge of Pitch 2 (the crux pitch imo) watching the squalls move across the ocean off Lands End there was that ominous feeling we were going to have to abandon agaian. But the weather gods were with us. And the jumping dolphins who stayed with us all day agreed. Get on!

Pich 1 – Dolphins spent the day fishing just next to the island

For me it was 15 years since I climbed LELC. For Chris it was 20! This probably explains why neither of us could remember a thing about it. My only real recollection was that the top of the chimney pitch had a tough move. I’d forgotten that ei9ther side, there were plenty of other tough moves. For HVD it is not to be sniffed at. Depending on the line you take, it offers up some excellent moves. P2 is probably the crux.

Waiting out the rain on the tricky and awkward Pitch 2

Awkward moves lead to a powerful exit. Pitch 5 is great on bridging, but has a sting in the tail. And the final pitch is steep if you go direct which tbh is the best line.

Pitch 5 – with a tough top out

It also has a bit of everything. Jamming, crimps, slopers, traverses, bridging, laybacks. They’re all there. What a great climb. For me and Chris S this was our first actual climb of the year. It brought back memories of loads of great times and was good to be back out together again. The fact we’re both climbing with injuries probably explains why we found it so tough.

Darned ropes!

Lands End is a bit of an enigma as well. They brilliantly give out local pases for free parking (if you provide your license and proof of address), but it is ultimately a tourist centre, and today was really busy. It’s quite nice to climb in solitude with just the amazing views and sound of the seagulls and then re-emerge into Cornwalls disneyland with all the buzz of the crowds and amusements. What Cornwalls always been about really. Contrasts.

Climbing

It’s the Cake that wins it

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31st July 2026

The Rumps

Bulls on Parade – Severe 4a – Lead
Goofy – Severe 4b – T/R

First time for Rauf who joined Mike and me on one of our climbing outings. I needed somewhere reasonably close and with acceptable routes and The Rumps did it. You do need to lead to get up to the large ledge, but once there it’s possible to set up a bottom rope for all the climbs. Coming down does involve some back and fronting down a narrow v gulley, but it’s not too bad

The climbs here are all a bit harder than they look. From below they look like a waltz, but you need to treat them with respect. For Rauf it was an eye opener back to his youth which I think was the last time he climbed. He did really well and more importantly loved it, so I can see a few more little ventures out coming our way in the near future.

I think the thing that most amazed him is that feeling of remoteness you get when you get on the sea cliffs here. Once you move down to the crag you rarely see anybody. This is one of the elements of climbing in Cornwall I love. I fell out of love with surfing to a certain extent because I lost the solitude of being able to surf with just your mate. This was when you could find a peak to yourselves if you timed the tide and venue right. Now it is next to impossible to do, especially with surfline feeding everyone with hourly forecasts and pointing people to the best spots.

Climbing fortunately still hasnt reached that point (I hope it never does). I realise it’s getting more popular, but for the most part there are enough crags to give you lots of space. Otherwise I’m going to have to find another f~*king sport haha.

My favorite bit of the evening was when Rauf suddenly announced we had cake. Cant beat cake to finish of a great outing.

Climbing

More is better?

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13th March 2025

Vessacks West

North End CrackVDLead O/S
Neptune’s KingdomVDLead O/S
Chilli DogS 4aLead O/S
Flared NostrilsHS 4b2nd O/S
Sausage RollVD2nd O/S
Little White JugVD2nd O/S
High FlyerDSolo O/S
The LiftMSolo

So Vessacks West is a good place for grabbing a load of ticks (albeit in mainly lower grades). But despite their apparent straightforwardness, these felt like good routes. Excellent positive granite and a great setting made for a really enjoyable day.

Sometimes I feel we get sucked into the harder is better scenarios. I would agree that completing a hard route comes with a lot of satisfaction and a great sense of achievement. But you can get lost in this, to the point where you ignore the amazing feeling of just climbing with no fear and the ability to take in your surroundings fully.

Chris on High Flyer

Chris and I had so much fun this day. I want more occasions like this, where lunch is just as important as the climbs. The crag is quite short, so you can literally be up and down in no time at all. Then its on to the neighbour. The photos speak for themselves.

Climbing

What Euromillions can do for you

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18th September 2024

Boswednack Cliff
No Justice – V Diff – Second
Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second

Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.

Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.

I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.

Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice

Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.

Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice

Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!

The Main Face area

I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.

The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.

Climbing

You’re a s#!t climber, but you’re great at hanging on…

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19th April 2024

Carn Barra
Illustrated Man – E2 – T/R
Twin Cracks – Severe – Lead

Words you should never utter to a fellow climber, “I havnt really experienced a hard climb”. It is likely to end up messy, as this day did. The choice of Carn Barra was really to give Barry a taste of what hard routes feel like. Its notoriously tough so what better place to get on some routes.

Oh its all happy faces and fun up until you try to climb out!

The central ledge has a number of good E numbers so we thought we’d try that. In hindsight maybe an inescapable ledge with only tough routes to get out on was not the best choice. But we got what we paid for. Illustrious Man is just a joy to climb, but is properly hard. For Barry it was a lesson in how to deploy everything at your disposal just to get upit. He did brilliantly, especially considering the experience he’s had so far. Failing at what I consider to be the crux (the move out of the middle crack system.

Illustrated Man

I made it just. Taught me a lesson in that I’m not where I have been in terms of fitness, as I climbed this clean and fairly well when I was last here with Chris. I did however remember to hang on, something that my old friend Bart (RIP) said I was particularly good at, even if he didnt rate my climbing abilities… haha

In the end Barry climbed out on Dialectic, no mean feat on its own and so the beasting ended and we retired to have a go at Twin Cracks on the upper buttress. I’s only ever climbed pitch 1. Turns out Pitch 2 is the difficult one. Steep and with few rests. PLace gear and keep climbing. Its also brilliantly exposed as you move out above the whole of Carn Barra.

Looking down Twin Cracks

What a day. We had it all. And to top it all off Barry spotted dolphins. And so to the long slog out past the wolfpack which continues to make me smile.

Climbing

I am a washing machine repair god!

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18th April 2024

Pordenack Point

Helmet Ridge Direct – HS 4b – Second

Little Cracker – Severe 4a – Lead

With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.

Sea Fury

Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough

Dave on Helmet Ridge Direct

Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.

Climbing

Getting cold feet

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21st March 2024

Bosigran
Shorl Slant/Black Vein North – Severe – Alt Lead

Well it was unexpectedly cold. I thought the wind would be coming over our heads but it swung to the west. Much of Bosi is understandably still wet, so we abandoned the idea of Zig Zag and headed for the Ochre slab area.

Weirdly we have somehow missed Shorl Slant in our many ventures to this area. Following the black vein its a rough, crystalline route which is a lot steeper than it looks. The Black Vein alternative finish seemed a better choice as well. But it was sooo cold.

Its all we managed on this day. Worth the trek to Bosi just to get out in what has been the wettest winter I can remember. As a bonus, Dave led his first pitch (P2) for a while. Major progress in getting back to his old form and what must be a massive confidence booster.

Climbing

The Tide waits for no man

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24th November 2023

Lighthouse Cliffs – Lizard

Gigging – Severe 4a – Lead
Long Time No Sea – V Diff – Lead

Well it was a good choice of crag for the weather, but a poor one with regard to tide times. Our second look at Lighthouse Cliffs was slightly better than our first when the swell was pumping through. Having said that, me and Dave still managed to get wet. Turns out our belay ledge wasnt high enough above the pushing swell!

We now have a pretty good idea of the layout of the crag. Once you have your bearings it all falls together. Which also describes some of the rock quality. In the lower sections it tends to be a bit sounder, but as you get higher it degrades.

Gigging was definitely in this category. We belayed on a small but higher ledge because of the swell and tide. This meant traversing across onto the main wall which was ok, but the more you progressed the crumblier things got. It gets a star in the guide, but I dont think it really warrants one. Its not particularly memorable. Although watching Dave get hit by a set wave was quite memorable.

We’ve definitely earmarked a number fo routes we want to get on, so I’m certain we’ll be back shortly. Next time at low tide with no swell though.

Climbing

Perfect Timing

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17th November 2023

Dewerstone

Reverse Cleft – Severe 4a – Lead

What a filthy month this November has been. Good job I saved the decorating for now as there has been sod all opportunity toi get out on the rock. Except of course for today, during which Barry and me managed to pluck the only dry spell for weeks.

However the crag was dripping. The Devils Rock area was in no condition to climb at all. But The Pinnacle was ok. As a stand alone buttress it doesnt suffer from seepage as much as the other buttresses. I sort of got a bit mixed up with the routes. I actually thought we were doing Pinnacle Buttress a V Diff, but it turns out we were on Reverse Cleft a Severe.

It didnt matter as Barry and me had a great time on the route. A fairly straight forward first pitch, leads into a much steeper and more technical second pitch. Being damp added a bit more jeopardy and the jamming section was a bit grim, having to trust greasy cracks. I found it a tough lead for Severe in the conditions. Still, it honed technique. Barry, still very much learning the ropes so to speak, did excellently. The work on the indoor walls paying immediate dividends.

We walked out up the gulley between Needle and Raven Buttresses, probably the crux of the day, with slimy boulders and no grip. Finishing at the top of the Tor capped a great day out. The rain had held off all day and only came in as we reached the car. A very satisfying moment.