Tag Archives: Chris D

Nobody goes full Lichen

September 16, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

16th September 2026

Bass Point

Haileys Corner – HS 4a – Lead
Ford Prefect – E1 5b – Lead/TR (dogged)

Well the idea of doing some DWS didnt last beyond the first few waves we saw breaking into the gulley at Micronut Wall. It might have been possible but Chris D and I dont know the depth under the routes and with so much water swirling you couldnt tell today. So we’ll leave that for another day.

With the tide being quite high, Bass Point beckoned and there were a couple of routes I had my eye on. As it turned out our main target turned out to be something completely different. A warm up on the always great Haileys Corner meant we walked past the eye catching crack of Ford Prefect. I say this with a wry smile, because Ford Prefect is a full on hand jamming crack that also happens to be overhanging.

I’m not so good at hand jamming and I definitely struggle when things get overhanging. So yeh, let’s go for this! To be fair, it looked well protected and I really fancied trying something different. And this ticked all the boxes. Once Chris had found me (my cleverly co-ordinated attire combining yellows, greens and browns blended perfectly with the rock here) I set off. From below it doesnt look overhanging, but once you’re on it it quickly becomes apparent.

I actually feel I didnt climb it too badly. I lacked conviction which probably was my main downfall so failed at the first crux and lowered off. But ultimately this route has taught me a lot. We dropped a top line down so that Chris could show me how it’s done although I think he too found the final few metres, which push you out quite a bit, tough.

I almost made it, coming off in the last few feet. I might make this a benchmark for how well I’m doing on jamming. It is well protected so relatively safe and maybe I can hope to lead it through at some point.

Once again we felt very privileged to spend the day in such a beautiful place. Remote, with spectacular views, the arrival back at The Lizard car park was almost surreal as crowds suddenly appeared and life returned to normal. Some Roskilly’s helped to bring a great day to an end. Just got to get back for the DWS. Next summer I’m thinking now, unless we have another heatwave.

Climbing

What a difference a day…. 14years makes

August 11, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

11th August 2026

Carn Barra

Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)

So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.

Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.

Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.

We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.

This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.

Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.

Climbing

Dark Designs

July 23, 2026 dillwat 2 Comments

21st July 2026

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS 4b – Lead

I think everyone has those moments where they discuss what they would do if they won the lottery. My particular dream is a house that sits overlooking Treen Cove. I think in todays world they would never have got permission to build it where it is, but it looks like it may be a relic of the mining age, sat between two old mine buildings. Whatever the reason I would live it. But the lottery may be the only way I ever get a look in, unless I resort to more nefarious means. But that leads to darkness…

However one dream that could be realised on this day for Chris D and me was the amazing journey into and out of Right Angle. A pretty unique climb for Cornwall, with a traverse in heading towards a creepy sounding cave that booms and gurgles at you for the whole trip.

Then a climb up the corner on great holds and with reassuring pro. It is pure adventure and gets you into a location which is uncommon at the grade. I think this is a must for anyone who climbs in Cornwall. A kind of right of passage.

And at the end of it all there is the pub, The Gurnards Head (you can never be sure what colour it’s going to be, but always a landmark. Whenever I see the pub I know I’m in climbing country which gets me excited. It’s also the home of imaginary Dave, whoever that might be???

Climbing

Poo Sticks

July 13, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

13th July 2026

Helman Tor

When it’s this hot (26-27degrees or possibly more) it’s time to get outside. Helman Tor turned out to be a cracking choice and with a breeze and some early morning shade it was really pleasant conditions.

Helman Tor is a little gem, hidden away and quiet it offers some spectacular views out across central Cornwall. More akin to Dartmoor really than the usual Cornwall climbing spots. It sits sits prominently along the famous St. Michael Ley Line, a 350-mile ancient alignment stretching from Norfolk to the Cornish coast. Must be why it has a layed back feeling to it. That is until you start climbing the numerous sandbags it has to offer.

Of course it still exacts its usual price of skin and blood. Sharp granite tends to do that to people. It also provided its fair share of intimidation, although Rich seemed oblivious to this…

For Rich and Ian T this was a first adventure at the location, and it was the first time the four of us (Me and Chris D as well) had climbed outsid as a team. We just about managed to cover a full range climbing, from slopy slabs, to crimpy faces and of course the rounded top outs which are always inspiring. Ian T deployed the famous seal approach to overcome these. Never fails but it can be exacting on skin.

I think this is the way to do bouldering. Get a group of good mates and give each other some encouragement and a few targets to achieve. I find the whole bouldering experience quite intimidating, but get a good bunch of you together and it helps to get you over the line sometimes. You get to feed off each other.

I must remember to stop bleeding over everything. It’s not a good image. I blame my shoes… and my shorts… and the wind direction. Ernie (Ian’s woofer) had the best time, playing fetch the poo and sometimes a stick. What is it with dogs and s#!t.

So I’m hoping this will become a regular intermission from the wall. The odd session outside just provides some variety. Also it helps to harden your hands up (or destroy them) And as a final point, watch out for the Ticks. They are there.

Climbing

A tidy little outing

July 10, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

10th July 2026

Little Fistral

This was the first outside mission for the Tidy crew. Rather than face melt down climbing inside, we opted for a fresher approach and headed for the beach. And what a glorious day it was too.

Interestingly enough, the steep face at Little Fistral stays in the shade for most of the moring making climbing here really pleasant. Ian T unfortunately spotted the wrong ‘Fistral’ and decided the crowds werent for him, but Rich, Chris D and CJ made it.

For the most part we stuck to the wall of sharp holds. There is a great traverse on the wall which can be climbed both ways. Probably a bit easier going right to left looking at the wall. But whichever way you go it takes its toll on the fingers.

There are also a number of straight up and over routes. There is a lot of potential so it’s a case of pick one and try it.

We finished in the arching cave which is steep but fun and was enough to finish my arms off completely. The resulting foray to the beach cafe was an eye opener in how much busier main Fistral is to Little. There will have been some sore heads later for those on the ale under the sun that early.

Climbing

Into the Trees… and the river!

May 26, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

26th May 2026

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead
Scorpion – HS 4b – Lead

What do you do on the hottest day of the year so far…. what you dont do is head South to West Penwith and irradiate yourself on the granite. This was a late, but fortunate realisation which resulted in Chris D and myself heading for the trees of Dewerstone in an attempt to find some shade.

As it happened, our first climb, Central Grove was in full sun and we both melted on the route. By time we topped out we were frazzled, but it didnt take away that CG is still an amazing route. Just a very hot one on today.

This was the first time Chris and me had climbed as a duo and I think we picked a cracking venue given the conditions. I hope this is a precursor for many more adventures together as I had a great time. Possibly cooling off in the river was the highlight and certainly provided the motivation to get another route in.

The Scorpion was a completely different proposition. Although in the shade which was a relief, it is punctuated by a series of fairly bold moves, particularly at the grade. Each one involves a tricky move away from your pro. To top it all (the sting in the tail) the hardest move is at the top and I would definitely put that at 4c every day of the week. Strangely it was enjoyable, if a little fraught. Maybe not the right route for a burgeoning HS leader. Not if they dont want anxiety problems.

M and S proved a godsend on the way back. Never has water tasted so good. Unfortunately we could go to a tub of Hagen Daz each, so the ice creams will need to wait for the next adventure.

Climbing

The Beast of Bo…sigran

January 18, 2025 dillwat Leave a comment

18th January 2025

Commando Ridge

Having missed out last year through a combination of bad time management and poor weather, it was good to get our annual ‘New Years on the Ridge’ going again.

With a tentative theme of ‘Pattern Disruptive Material’ (Camo to you and me) we set of for what was to be a great day on Commando Ridge. We lucked the weather with sunshine for most of a chilly but bearable day.

Two new recruits in Chris D and Ian T joined us with a few of the regulars missing because of various ageing complaints. We did have Chris S and his new pet Cougar. Not that we could see Mike with his stunning cat like camouflage. We also managed the crossing to the normal start, with no ‘Dave’ factor to take into account.

Being a chilly day it was noticeable that hanging around on the belays was tough work. In hindsight, I probably should have let Chris and Mike lead off as they would have been faster, but having to share a rack meant we needed to stay together anyway, so I’m not sure it would have made too much difference.

It was good to actually be out on the rock again. The Ridge is never really hard, but you do need to stay focused. Chris and Ian were loving it and it helped that the light was amazing, lighting up the main face and bringing out all the colours.