Tag Archives: 4c

Climbing

What a difference a day…. 14years makes

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11th August 2026

Carn Barra

Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)

So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.

Looking down the line of Axis

Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.

Chris D on Axis

Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.

We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.

I’m sure that’s a jam

This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.

Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.

Climbing

Cracking good fun

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10th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Supernatural – VS 4c – Lead

Some climbs were created to put a smile on your face and make you very content with life. Obviously this sometimes comes after you’ve been through the whole gambit of emotions…. fear, relief, uncertainty, bravado… beforehand

Hunting out the stakes. Make sure to use both of them.

Supernatural can do that. It is truly an adventure. Finding it can be tricky, despite the fact it is reasonably close to the car park; getting to the starting belay ledge is a mission in its own right; and then launching up 50m of amazing crack climbing (without running out of appropriately sized gear) to a loose finish.

Moving up from the belay

Dropping over the edge on the ab rope feels like leaving the world behind. Mike, on only his second visit to Gowla was loving it. After what had been a few years away from climbing, the two of us are racking up some memorable routes. This one though is in a different league.

Stood on the belay ledge

Beta – Some advice for the route. It takes a lot of medium sized gear. By that I mean Camelot Size 1 or larger (the red one) and medium Hex’s are useful. It is longer than you might expect. Also we flaked our twin ropes into a rope bag before descending and hung it of the ab rope once we got down there. This keeps everything a bit more tidy. And finally, watch the belay station at the top. Anything you knock off heads down straight towards your second.

It is steep

As far as the climbing goes, it’s amazing. I’m sure it felt harder than the first time I climbed it, but I am a few years older now. The crux was tricky, but that could be because I didnt sort my feet out very well. Mike did fantasticaly well and didnt seem overawed bythe route at all. In fact he had ‘the smile’ on when he hit the top.

A long single pitch route

What a buzz! And as usual we were accompanied by an amazing sunset to finish off with. What a year this is turning out to be.

For me, this was a bit of affirmation that I can still climb at VS with reasonable comfort. My hip is causing me to adapt my climbing style and technique regularly to avoid over bridging or high steps. Mind you it’s amazing what adrenalin will do for you at certain moments haha.

Climbing

Slightly Touched

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5th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

A great venue to pick after you’ve had a hard workout on your quads is Carn Gowla…. not. Despite knowing that walking down to and out of most of the crags on Gowla equals pain, Mike and I decided that this was cliff for us. There’s nothing like that end of session slog back up to the coast path to make you reflect of life choices.

Looking across to C Buttress

That said, I couldnt resist returning to this little gem of a climb on Indian Buttress. Easy to get to (for Gowla) and amazing positions at a really amenable grade. I missed out the bottom part of the climb up the arete because of the sea state, but to be fair it is the top wall that is the money shot.

Loads of positive holds and foot placements, grippy fresh rock and pleasant belays adds up to great climbing. It’s the gear that probably justifies the grade, although this is good if you take your time to find it. I’ve done a lot harder VS’s but few that are in such an awesome postion with maginificent exposure. The waves and light made for a great addition to the whole feeling on this evening. I could tell by Mikes smile that he was loving it.

Fantastic Atmosphere

Carn Gowla is not everyones cup of tea, but you cant deny that for adventure and a fairly unique experince in Cornwall it has it all. Once again you cant help but pat yourself on the back for being so lucky to live in this climbing paradise.

Not a bad belay

We had checked out Supernatural which was our original target, but the waves and wind drove us off from there. It was good to know that there are at least two good belay stakes still there. However I think I’ll take my portable stake with me when we go in the next few weeks just for added comfort … haha

A beer and some food helped make this a memorable eveneing as we watched the sun go down. A common occurance in this year of drought and clear skies.

The Slog Out
Climbing

Only in Cornwall….

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11th June 2025

Cligga Head
C-Land Super – VS 4c – Alt lead

On a windy, grey evening with storm clouds approaching, it was kind of surreal to encounter a burlesque dance class, whooping away in an industrial unit in the middle of no-where. But it did bring a broader grin to both Chris and my face, than the one which was already there, having found a little gem of a VS at Cligga.

Fortunately the trials that Mike and I went through the previous week when exploring the crag, meant we knew exactly where to ab in to start this route. It also helped that we could use the ab rope as a belay anchor, so we were set up pronto and ready to begin what was another typical Cornish sea cliff adventure, especially for Chris who had the waves getting closer and closer as I climbed.

I was surprised to find that it was the initial opening moves up to the huge overhang and then across to the base of the main chimney , that were the most tense. There is good gear in the initial crack, but to avoid rope drag this needed to be extended by about 5 ft. So any fall would have put me right back at the start. This is a delicate section. Small footplacements and slopers for holds means you need to approach it carefully.

But once in the chimney, you get all the advantages of bridging, right up to the final escape out of the chimney, on a brilliant jug, which looks like it will snap off at any moment.

We also managed to beat the rain which was moving steadily towards us from over St Ives way. It was a real quick hit and was quite satisfying to know we could work this efficiently when we needed to.

So we hit all the ticks:-
It was scary
It was technical
It was grey and a bit forbidding
We had a laugh
and we had cheese and biscuits for dinner.

Job done!

Climbing

A fabled journey

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24th April 2025

Carn Gowla
Journey to Ixlan – HVS 4c – Alt Lead

Been a long time coming, but finally I’ve done the great odyssey of JtI. What a route! Fragile Rock, huge exposure, tricky route-finding and rope drag. It’s got it all.

Looking back up the ramp having established the belay at the end of Pitch 1

When Nick had suggested climbing, I didnt anticipate Carn Gowla, but once again the dry spring meant a often wet crag was in condition. Couple this with a lifting of the ban which had been in place last year because of Peregrins and JtI was on.

Pitch 2

It’s 5 pitches. Pitch 1 is a descent of a ramp to what is really the first belay. Then the interesting climbing really starts. Each pitch has its own character. I would say P4 has the single hardest move (and the most exposure), but P5 is the most sustained and has the additional problem of rope drag, which should not be underestimated.

Belay at the end of Pitch 2

It’s a full outing, but so engaging time just flies. Add in the impressive sea state with roaring and surging surf, wind and seagulls and your senses are overwhelmed. It is such a privelege to be able to climb in these areas. Something few get to witness which makes it feel even more special.

Nick nearing the end of Pitch 4

It was so good to climb together with Nick after what has been a long break. I’m sure now we’ll get on it and bag a few more epics before the end of the year.

Climbing

Don’t hang on the Chicken… Stand on it!

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4th September 2024

Chair Ladder
The Mitre – VS 4c – Lead
Asterix in Cornwall – VS 5a – Lead

The Mitre has been on my wish-list forever. It’s the description in the guidebook that always put the frighteners on me in the past. “A difficult move around the arete leads to instant exposure”. And yes it does, on a grand scale.

About to set off on the Mitre

The initial cracks are really enjoyable, leading to the obvious chicken head. Remember to keep going here. The low traverse looks nails and unprotected. Whereas the higher one, although scary has good holds and foot placements. I actually found the move into the crack on the face the more technical and difficult. All in all though a brilliant climb. Shame the bottom section fell down but its still well worth doing.

Alternative ending to Asterix in Cornwall

Asterix in Cornwall is the sister to Nutcracker. Not as hard, although still thuggy, with a tough mantle-shelf onto the large ledge. I challenge people to do this with elegance. Me and Chris both failed in that department. I would also add that if you continue, then its difficult to protect your second on this move. I chose to belay on the large ledge.

Dave’s number 6 walnut??

Chair Ladder as always was magnificent. Such a magnificent setting. Chris and I used to climb here regularly when we more of a double act. I think the consensus is that we will get back into doing more of this. Maybe go for some of the harder classics next time.

Climbing

Three people short of a full deck

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24th-25th May 2024

Predannack Head and Pen Olver

Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead
Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second
The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second
Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead

Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.

Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.

Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.

A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.

And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.

Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.

Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.


Climbing

When you need that extra bit of oomph!

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9th August 2023

Foxhold Slabs

Silk – Severe 4a – Lead
Satin – HVS 5a – Second
Mozambique – VS 4c – Lead

Its been a while since Joe and I got to climb together, so this was always going to be a good day out. One thing I can guarantee is that I will end up being challenged and this day was no exception.

Foxhole Slabs feels remote and you can only access it a few hours after high tide. The Peregrines we annoyed by being in the area were testament to this. They are astonishing birds, sleek and powerful. Their cries are so distinctive. An adult and juvenile let us know they were around. Such a beautiful spot though, a bit King Kong’ish with all the dark rock spires and sea mist. And of course there was no one around. Only the odd voice drifting across from Welcome Mouth.

Joe had wanted to go to one of the few places on the Culm he’d not been to, so I was more than willing to give it a go. Just up the coast from Welcome Mouth is a series of slabs which offer great, steep climbing, typical of this area.

I got to start on the most amenable climb of the day in Silk. Never desperate, it still gives a great line following cracks and overlaps to a pretty dodgy belay. The bottom 2/3rds is fine. The top part, although not steep, needs some gardening, probably reflecting the little traffic it receives.

Joes lead followed a line to the right, which instantly was more difficult. Poor pro initially and spaced hand holds meant you had to rely a lot on friction with your feet. Easy enough on the second, but it must be intimidating on the lead. Mind you, Joe is like a limpet on these slabs.

Mozambique was a much greater test of my current mental strength. The opening 5a sequence is tricky and without Joe encouraging me to push through I would probably have sat on the ropes or come back down. Having made the initial move, there is another hard section. Strangely I found this easier, but I was still choughed to bits to have led this climb cleanly. It was for me the route of the day. Excellent climbing throughout and worth I think 3 stars in most peoples book.

Reflecting my current climbing fitness, I was knackered by the end of the day, but at the same time buzzing from what was one of the best days climbing I’ve had for a while. And more to come tomorrow with another new venue on the cards.

Climbing

Charlie Brown you Blockhead!

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23rd May 2023

Predannack Head – International Buttress

End of Daze – VS 4c – Lead
Chopper – VS 4c – Lead

Dave has a unique ability. Despite all of us watching him coil a rope, no one has yet to identify how he manages to get a mystery loop included. The result of the mystery loop inevitably concludes with a tangled mess and many minutes of fun having to re-flake the rope before it can be used. It reminds me a lot of the old Shultz cartoons where CB tried to fly a kite which always ended up in a tangle.

Looking across at End of Daze with the square cut niche obvious on the top pillar

Today of course proved no different, but once sorted I set off to conquer the innocuous looking End of Daze. However I could be accused of not reading the guide properly which might have helped. All went well until the traverse at the square niche. I would add that whichever way you approach this move it feels bold. All is at your feet except for a small bunch of micros in dubious cracks within the niche.

I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to move into the niche, which was hard and felt very insecure. It was only after moving along the rim that I realised I was way too high. The guidebook does remark on this. Having completed it, it all seemed obvious, however for me it was a minor epic and it felt like I was there hanging around for ages. It was good though to get confirmation of its difficulty from both Tom and Dave who found it unerving.

Dave starting out on the tricky traverse on End of Daze

Chopper was a contrast. No delicate traverse here. It was a get stuck into the wide crack and then go for it with a layback in the top half. Very satisfying and a fitting partner to the other VS because it was such a contrast.

Dave helps Tom out of a Chossey Mess

We’ve now all but climbed out International Buttress with the exception of the E1’s and HVS around on the left wall (facing out to sea). We did drop down to take a gander. My advice here is go off the top block straight down the steep face. The rock on the left is a teetering mass of crap and should be avoided. We used it as an escape route, which didnt go well as big klumps kept coming off in our hands. Queue a saftey line from Dave to just settle the nerves. Avoid this if you can.

The East facing part of International Buttress
Climbing

Losing Mementom

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14th May 2021
Black Carn South

Memento/London Bridge Combo – VS 4c – Lead Onsight
Chico – HS 4b – Second
Zeppo – VS 4c – Lead

Last time at CBS Chris and I got terribly lost. I knew from the guide book that there were plenty of mid grade routes, but we didnt seem to find them. So we returned intending to get our bearings and get on a few of them.

The ab in

Well, getting our bearings using the guide book descriptions wasnt easy. For some mad reason the guide just ignores the blatently obvious features of the crag and does the usual ‘ to the left of the rounded arete’ or ‘just right of the obvious crack’. Well what about the fucking obvious massive chimney, or the huge jammed boulder or even better the startling diagonal quartz vein that slices through the top of the buttress.

Christ they make it hard. Even when we did find the routes, the descriptions still didnt tally properly. At least not in a clear way. So I’ve added some topos here which might help us if we go again in the future.

Topo as far as we could make out???

The described line for Memento looks highly unlikely at VS and I didnt go near it. 6 metres of unprotected tricky climbing doesnt seem in keeping with the grade. Two alternatives look better. Continue up a further two metres and go left at a horizontal break which may provide pro or go up the left hand side of the chimnet (again looks quite tough) but there are places for nuts/small cams. Then go right at the large ledge below the trapped boulders.

Chris on the top section of Memento

My combo was entertaining and the top part is nice climbing. The bottom is gritty and fragile but this is in keeping with many of the routes.

Chico and Zeppo were similar in difficulties. Harder at the starts and then pleasant climbing. But both are short and divided by a large ledge. Be aware that Zeppo now has a nice hold at the top thanks to the original rock fracturing and a large rock detaching. Fortunately not with me hanging on 🙂

Will return to do the harder routes once my fitness is fully back. But a nice venue to spend a day.