Tag Archives: 4c

Running out of options

December 22, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

22nd December 2011
St Loy
Sloe Steel – VS 4C – Second rpt

Joe’s return from London should have heralded a few good sessions over the Christmas period, but this year the weather has been appaling. A combination of rain and wind on almost every day has meant few opportunities to get out and have a decent climb.

This was not a bad day when compared to what has been previously, but it was still grey and uninviting. St Loy as the warmest and most likely bright crag on the South Coast beckond. Dave, Tom, Kieran and Joe accompanied me in the beautiful walk in (undiminished by the overcast conditions) and we set up around Cress Cendo.

It’s an easy spot to set a top rope up on and provides a number of routes to play on. The biggest problem was that Chlorophyll Cluster was dripping wet and this had been Joe and my target for the day. We settled on Sloe Steel as an alternative, a good VS with a tricky crux. The move out of the diagonal crack and onto the rounded crest requires a bit of thought, but does provide good protection. The hardest bit is topping out through the gorse and setting up a belay as there is a wacking great Gorse bush blocking everything.

St Loy_Jan12-005 — Joe leading Sloe Steel

St Loy_Jan12-005 (3) — Me seconding Sloe Steel

We made a real fist of scrambling out, although wet slimy, mossy rock is not a good escape route. My advice is to continue the climb on the cracks just behind Sloe Steel.

St Loy_Jan12-005 (2) — Joe going through the crux

On returning to the group who had all successfully climbed Cress Cendo we practiced smearing on the first pitch of The Hairiest whilst Joe went in search of something hard to climb (an unsuccessful venture in the end).

At the end of the day, you cant always get perfect days climbing, but given Cornwall’s damp end to 2011 this was probably as good as we were going to get.

Climbing

Crows vs Owl. Who would win? Only one way to find out!

November 25, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

25th November 2011

Black Head
White Russians – VS 4C – Lead rpt

I always love going to Black Head. The walk in from Coverack is second to none, although it requires a bit of effort. The path twists along the coast rising and falling, passing a couple of headlands until it reaches the old coast guard hut above the crag.

Of course you never get surf at Coverack because its on the East side of the Lizard and completely sheltered from the Atlantic swells. So why was it 3ft and clean, almost good enough to pop a wetsuit on and get in; except that it was closing out. This of course made me look stupid in front of Dave and Tom to whom I had given assurances about the absence of waves.

The base of Black Head consists of a V gulley where it is possible to set up a belay for all the routes on the main face. This acts like a barrel for the waves as the tide pushes, funneling them straight at whoever remains at the belay. This of course was Tom and Dave. We had a while before the tide got too high so I quickly got started on White Russians, one of my favorite VS’s in Cornwall. The original intention was to tackle Archangel, the HVS but given the volatile conditions at the base of the crag I decided speed was of the essence.

Black-Head_Nov11-020 — White Russians - 1

Black-Head_Nov11-021 — White Russians - 2

Black-Head_Nov11-022 — White Russians - 3

Black-Head_Nov11-025 — White Russians - 4

WR starts with a traverse into Black Dyke and then sets off up the slab. Loads of positiv small holds and foot placements gets you to the rising ramp and the best part of the climb. Over all too quickly but with a fantasticaly atmospheric crux as you move around the corner – which gave me a birds eye view of Dave and Tom dodging waves which were getting closer and closer to them.

Black-Head_Nov11-032 — Dave playing with water

This was a change to the last two VS’s I had them on at Carn Barra. They were strenuous, this was balancey and just a pleasure to climb- if a bit loose in places. So both arrived with big smiles next to the Rooks nest.

Black-Head_Nov11-037 — Dave starting on the initial crack

Black-Head_Nov11-041 — Dave moving onto the ramp

With no chance of getting another route in, we set of for Chynhalls Point just before Coverack. The walk through the bronze wildlife created by Terence Coventry is odd. There is a field full of statues, left open for anyone to wander through. A bit sureal, but fun to see. Watch you dont tread on the real rabits.

It turned out there were some boulders here and we messed around on these for a while until it started to get dark. The rock is a bit snappy so care is needed, but the route up the front face is challenging. Traversing the bolder turned out to be the hardest with a tough move across into a vertical crack.

Black-Head_Nov11-016 — The boulder - Straight up the face

Black-Head_Nov11-014 — Chynhalls Point Bouldering

The three crows giving a Barn Owl a really hard time of it, (chasing it off down the point) reminded us that it was time to go. The walk back towards the lights of Coverack was a great finish to a day of spectacular views and climbing.

Black-Head_Nov11-044 — Jenga rock at Black Head

Climbing

Two of a kind

October 30, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

28th October 2011
Carn Barra
Weasle – VS 4c – Lead
Axis – VS 5a – Lead

A glorious Friday provided a perfect setting for a trip to Carn Barra. I thought I’d go for a couple of stiff VS’s having seen how well Tom and Dave climbed on our last outing to Pordenack Point.

This turned out to be a good and bad decision. I wanted to lead both, but adding the extra dimension of seconding and removing gear is a lot tougher than maybe I’d factored in. Carn Barra is a stunning setting. Golden granite and solitude are typical and the quality fo climbs is second to none.

Weasle is a low tide, low swell climb. Rising from right to left its two main features are overhangs which have to be negotiated with exposed and slightly wild moves out onto the face. Its a brilliant strenuous route and has risen to one of my favorite. Negotiating the first overhang is a bit heart in mouth until you find the better holds – its well protected but is exposed enough to get the heart pumping.

The top crack is brilliant. I did the left hand variation which is a little harder but more fun and continues the line of the main crack. Because of the angle of the crack, footwork plays a big part and some of the moves can be a bit baffling. Despite a short spell of confusion on the second overhang, Tom worked it out and negotiated the top wall. For Dave, unfortunately a stuck chock (which is still there) , put paid to a clean ascent as he spent a considerable amount of time trying to get it out and in doing so blew his arms. In the end he pushed himself to finish on spent muscles and no grip. A great effort.

Axis extends the strenuous nature of Weasle, but is steeper. The short bottom wall is difficult and not really protectable. With my knee I decided to give it a miss and solo’d up the first part of Dialectic. As it turned out I too ran out of steam on this one. The crack was a bit wet and short slip half way up cost me the onsite. It also caused me to faf around for 5 minutes trying to put in gear when the correct choice was to move on. I’m going to come back soon and complete the climb in full, bottom wall and all.

Both Tom and Dave clearly found this one easier than Weasle, because they both cleaned it – although I had to ab down to retrieve some left gear. Still it gave me another opportunity to climb the crack again which I did. By this time we were rapidly running out of daylight so a nice slow walk back along the stunningly beautiful and quiet coastpath capped off a great day out.

Climbing

Now what was the name of that climb?

May 19, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

Hawk’s Tor
19 th May 2011

The Cat’s ‘ere – Severe 4b – Lead
Recollection – HS 4b – Lead
Black Beastie – VS 4c – Lead

The stroll up to the tor through the fern and bracken brought about another deer sighting. Every time I’ve been to the North Hill area I have seen deer. This one broke cover, sprinting back towards the trees having been stood right in our path. Dominic’s keen eyesight picking it up.

Once again this was a day when we saw no one. A bit windy and unsettled, we made the most of the changing conditions trying to climb in the lee of the tor. This was the first time Dominic and I had climbed as buddies and it was a good chance to test out his progress. So the aim was to increase a grade on each climb.

The Cat’s ‘ere was first up. I had seen a couple of climbers struggling on the top move of this one last time I was at the tor, so I thought it could be tricky.

It’s really a one move wonder of a climb, well protected, but favouring the taller person. Get your body shape right and its OK, otherwise I thinkit requires a strenuous pull up. A good warm up for what was to come.

I spent all day forgetting the name of the second climb we did, which is ironic cos its called ‘Recollection’ Duhhh!! This was completely different, requiring bridging and a finishing with a nervy top out. Again well protected if you have Cam’s for the horizontal breaks. The 4b move was not as difficult on this as TCE imo, but I suppose different moves suit different climbers. Dominic also found this one easier, but it does feel a little more exposed.

We saved the best until last though. I’d eye’d up Black Beastie last time I was here but ran out of time. No excuse this time, so we geared up. The start is really interesting. It can be done two ways. As a step over from the opposing boulder or straight up. Have faffed around on the step over for a few minutes I climbed it direct which improved my balance no end.. The Rowan tree is a pain, but offers good pro. I tried not to use it as a hold, which made the move into the crack awkward. Still it adds character to the climb.

At this point my common sense deserted me; why bother using two ropes on a meandering climb when you can thread them as a single and generate huge amounts of rope drag. Which is precisely what I did meaning I made the precarious and balancy top move with about 4 ft of slack in the system for fear of being pulled off. It would have made for a fine ‘whipper’. The route though is great, with lots of slopers, jams and pinches. Gear is there when you need it, although the top move is protected by a lonely cam in a fairly shallow placement. Its enough and I’m posative it would hold.

Well worth climbing is my feeling. Maybe the sunshine and drop in wind helped make it seem better but I would give it stars.
We finished off with a bouldering session, working our way around the tor. Having met Sean Hawkin last week at Gold Digging quarry I’m looking forward to his revised data on bouldering routes here and on Kilmar Tor across the valley. There seems to be loads of it around.

Climbing

Old woods and suntan lotion…. but no Devil!

April 8, 2011 dillwat Leave a comment

8th April 2011

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4B – Alt Lead
Leviathon – VS 4C – Lead
Climbers Club Direct – HVS 5Aa – Second

According to something I read on the net (not always the most reliable source of ‘true’ information), “The Dewerstone, on the southern edge of Dartmoor is supposedly a favourite haunt of the Devil. With his pack of wisht hounds he would drive sinners to the edge of the cliff, never once touching them, where they would then fall onto the jagged rocks below.”

Well, from my perspective the woods would be better described as stunning and mythical. A beautiful stream flowing through and sunlight beaming through the gaps in the trees does not make them threatening at all. And the climbing is amazing. This must go down as one of my favorite days. Three contrasting climbs, gradually building in intensity.

Bart, Chris and I turned up early and set about Central Groove straight away. This is an amazing line following the main groove and then breaking right for a final finish up an amazing corner. Unfortunately I forgot that the 1st belay point would be in the full sun and so I paid the price with a thorough ‘cooking’ on an exposed ledge. The views though made up for it, with a vista across the tops of the trees across and up the valley.

Dewerstone_DSCF0011

The climb itself is slightly polished, but not so that you notice. It is so compelling with good gear throughout. Just complete fun climbing and one of the best routes I’ve done. Bart enjoyed himself as well – his first multi pitch route for a while, but he breezed up it as did Chris, who led the second pitch and the final corner/crack, which is the icing on the cake.

Dewerstone_Apr11-031

Leviathon is a bit more committing. A tough Groove which I found best to bridge. More powerful and needs more thought, but fine at the grade with adequate pro. I loved it and I can understand why it makes it onto the list of top VS’s in the country. A little slip got my heart going and the final pull over on slopers made me nervous.

OK. Now Climbers Club Direct is a different kettle of fish. Many of the climbs at Dewerstone need jamming, but CCD needs lots of it. Nick did a brilliant job of leading it and made the initial crack look straight forward. Which it is, until you actually try to climb it. Chris joined my ‘keep trying’ club from the previous week. I struggled to work out the way to move up, but it boiled down to a small foothold and plenty of faith.

Dewerstone_Apr11-059

Dewerstone_Apr11-095

For me though the suprise was the second pitch which turned ut to be exceptional. Given 4c in the book this is better thought of as 5b territory and very bold in places for the leader. A series of amazing jams and bridges got me up and a pitch I will not forget any time soon.

So ended an exceptional day and all I want to do now is get back on the rock. Role on next FRiday.

This links to all the photos

The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: 4c

Running out of options

Crows vs Owl. Who would win? Only one way to find out!

Two of a kind

Now what was the name of that climb?

Old woods and suntan lotion…. but no Devil!

Why it never rains on a Friday!