Ragamutti – Severe 4a – Lead Short back and Sides – Severe 4a – Second Such Fun – VS 5a – Lead
Dont know how many times I’ve been to Penberth, but somehow missed the three climbs we did today. You even have to walk past them to get to Thirty Something etc.
Penberth looking stunning as usual.
So Chris and I were really pleased to find these three easily accessible climbs. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures wierdly. Considering I post so many on the blog. This isnt the first time recently that I’ve not taken photos though. I’m wondering whether it’s down to the mobile phone ‘does it all’ phenomenon.
So this years resolution is to get back to using a proper camera more often. And making sure I pack it.
All three climbs are worthwhile and each brings a different style. All are well protected as well. Ragamutti moves three a niche and up a sloping corner, SBAS is a straight crack climb, but you can make use of features on the face as well and finally Such Fun, although much steeper, is overcome by a couple of thoughtful moves (and is very well protected).
I’ll add some pictures at a later date. But it is good to know that Chris and I can still find new adventures in old hunting grounds.
On a windy, grey evening with storm clouds approaching, it was kind of surreal to encounter a burlesque dance class, whooping away in an industrial unit in the middle of no-where. But it did bring a broader grin to both Chris and my face, than the one which was already there, having found a little gem of a VS at Cligga.
Fortunately the trials that Mike and I went through the previous week when exploring the crag, meant we knew exactly where to ab in to start this route. It also helped that we could use the ab rope as a belay anchor, so we were set up pronto and ready to begin what was another typical Cornish sea cliff adventure, especially for Chris who had the waves getting closer and closer as I climbed.
I was surprised to find that it was the initial opening moves up to the huge overhang and then across to the base of the main chimney , that were the most tense. There is good gear in the initial crack, but to avoid rope drag this needed to be extended by about 5 ft. So any fall would have put me right back at the start. This is a delicate section. Small footplacements and slopers for holds means you need to approach it carefully.
But once in the chimney, you get all the advantages of bridging, right up to the final escape out of the chimney, on a brilliant jug, which looks like it will snap off at any moment.
We also managed to beat the rain which was moving steadily towards us from over St Ives way. It was a real quick hit and was quite satisfying to know we could work this efficiently when we needed to.
So we hit all the ticks:- It was scary It was technical It was grey and a bit forbidding We had a laugh and we had cheese and biscuits for dinner.
So Vessacks West is a good place for grabbing a load of ticks (albeit in mainly lower grades). But despite their apparent straightforwardness, these felt like good routes. Excellent positive granite and a great setting made for a really enjoyable day.
Sometimes I feel we get sucked into the harder is better scenarios. I would agree that completing a hard route comes with a lot of satisfaction and a great sense of achievement. But you can get lost in this, to the point where you ignore the amazing feeling of just climbing with no fear and the ability to take in your surroundings fully.
Chris on High Flyer
Chris and I had so much fun this day. I want more occasions like this, where lunch is just as important as the climbs. The crag is quite short, so you can literally be up and down in no time at all. Then its on to the neighbour. The photos speak for themselves.
Having missed out last year through a combination of bad time management and poor weather, it was good to get our annual ‘New Years on the Ridge’ going again.
With a tentative theme of ‘Pattern Disruptive Material’ (Camo to you and me) we set of for what was to be a great day on Commando Ridge. We lucked the weather with sunshine for most of a chilly but bearable day.
Two new recruits in Chris D and Ian T joined us with a few of the regulars missing because of various ageing complaints. We did have Chris S and his new pet Cougar. Not that we could see Mike with his stunning cat like camouflage. We also managed the crossing to the normal start, with no ‘Dave’ factor to take into account.
Being a chilly day it was noticeable that hanging around on the belays was tough work. In hindsight, I probably should have let Chris and Mike lead off as they would have been faster, but having to share a rack meant we needed to stay together anyway, so I’m not sure it would have made too much difference.
It was good to actually be out on the rock again. The Ridge is never really hard, but you do need to stay focused. Chris and Ian were loving it and it helped that the light was amazing, lighting up the main face and bringing out all the colours.
Hopefully next year will see an even larger team event. We may have to have start times haha.
Boswednack Cliff No Justice – V Diff – Second Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second
Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.
Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.
I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.
Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice
Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.
Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice
Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!
The Main Face area
I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.
The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.
Adder Skin (Variation Finish) – VS 5a – Lead Zig Zag – Mod – Second
A recent online chat reminded me of a different finish to Adder Skin. I’d done the original which is excellent in it’s own right, but the vertical crack arising from the original face is a tempting line. Also the wind and conditions meant this area was at least partly sheltered on a NW.
Adder Skin – Variation Finish
It was also great to have Dave back with us. Although maybe a bit unfair to launch him at a really tricky VS for a starter. The climb is all about the move into the crack. I found it hard to get a good high piece of gear in (which I really wanted as a fall would mean a bounce off the face below) because to see into the crack require some delicate manoeuvring. Once you’ve got the gear though you can launch at it.
Dave moving into the crack of Adder Skin Variation VS 5a
Its not as burly as you might imagine from the ground. More a case of judicious use of the foot placements and committing out onto the left hand face. A really good climb imo. Chris and I commented that we’ve been lucky recently to bag a succession of great routes. Chris climbed it very smoothly, obviously finding the holds to unlock it first time.
Chris on his way up Zig Zag
And Dave got to lead Zig Zag. Not hard climbing, but loads of exposure and a brilliant route. One of my favourite on the Headland, just because of how it slants up a really imposing slab. So good.
Fantasia E2 5b – Through the twin horizontal breaks into the niche and then up the headwall.
I also checked out Fantasia, the E2 at the bottom of the ramp. Will be doing that next time I’m here for sure.
Chair Ladder The Mitre – VS 4c – Lead Asterix in Cornwall – VS 5a – Lead
The Mitre has been on my wish-list forever. It’s the description in the guidebook that always put the frighteners on me in the past. “A difficult move around the arete leads to instant exposure”. And yes it does, on a grand scale.
About to set off on the Mitre
The initial cracks are really enjoyable, leading to the obvious chicken head. Remember to keep going here. The low traverse looks nails and unprotected. Whereas the higher one, although scary has good holds and foot placements. I actually found the move into the crack on the face the more technical and difficult. All in all though a brilliant climb. Shame the bottom section fell down but its still well worth doing.
Alternative ending to Asterix in Cornwall
Asterix in Cornwall is the sister to Nutcracker. Not as hard, although still thuggy, with a tough mantle-shelf onto the large ledge. I challenge people to do this with elegance. Me and Chris both failed in that department. I would also add that if you continue, then its difficult to protect your second on this move. I chose to belay on the large ledge.
Dave’s number 6 walnut??
Chair Ladder as always was magnificent. Such a magnificent setting. Chris and I used to climb here regularly when we more of a double act. I think the consensus is that we will get back into doing more of this. Maybe go for some of the harder classics next time.
Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead
Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.
Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.
Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.
A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.
And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.
Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.
Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.
With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.
Sea Fury
Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough
Dave on Helmet Ridge Direct
Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.
Meteor – VS 4b – Lead Three Tiers (Variation Finish) – HVS 5b – Lead
If I’m honest, my target for this day was Kafka’s Wound, an HVS in the Micronut Wall area of Green Lanes Cliff. However the tide was still a bit full, so we returned to the Cull area.
Kafka’s Wound
I’m still struggling with moving up the grades. Confidence really, but time at the wall has helped me trust my endurance and strength, so jumping in at VS seemed ok.
Dave about to start Comet
Comet is a climb which gradually gets harder, culminating in a steep top wall with dubious rock and nervy gear. Its a great climb to get your head in the game and Dave and me were ready to up the anti.
Dave on the middle tier of Three Tiers
Three Tiers is just that. A blocky but easy bottom tier which we solo’d. Followed by a steep wall with small holds and foot placements and little gear. Followed by a steep, slightly thuggy headwall which just completes a challenging overall climb.
Dave on the upper tier headwall of Three Tiers
Finding gear on the second tier was a real mission. I ended up with a shocking cam and a solid micronut in a split which didn’t look like it would last long under load. Still I didn’t need it, but the climbing is technical and thoughtful. I loved it. Dave also had the biggest smile when he topped out. And its testament to how much he’s come along since getting back into climbing, that he got up an HVS. And 5b no less!
Green Lanes Cliff area
Meanwhile Chris and Tom were also pushing, with Chris getting on Meteor as well and providing a very vocal audience for Dave while he climbed Three Tiers.
Kafka awaits……
Why it never rains on a Friday!
Cookie Consent
We use cookies to improve your experience on our site. By using our site, you consent to cookies.
Used to determine whether a user is included in an A / B or Multivariate test.
18 months
_ga
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gali
Used by Google Analytics to determine which links on a page are being clicked
30 seconds
_ga_
ID used to identify users
2 years
_gid
ID used to identify users for 24 hours after last activity
24 hours
_gat
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests when using Google Tag Manager
1 minute
_gac_
Contains information related to marketing campaigns of the user. These are shared with Google AdWords / Google Ads when the Google Ads and Google Analytics accounts are linked together.
90 days
__utma
ID used to identify users and sessions
2 years after last activity
__utmt
Used to monitor number of Google Analytics server requests
10 minutes
__utmb
Used to distinguish new sessions and visits. This cookie is set when the GA.js javascript library is loaded and there is no existing __utmb cookie. The cookie is updated every time data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
30 minutes after last activity
__utmc
Used only with old Urchin versions of Google Analytics and not with GA.js. Was used to distinguish between new sessions and visits at the end of a session.
End of session (browser)
__utmz
Contains information about the traffic source or campaign that directed user to the website. The cookie is set when the GA.js javascript is loaded and updated when data is sent to the Google Anaytics server
6 months after last activity
__utmv
Contains custom information set by the web developer via the _setCustomVar method in Google Analytics. This cookie is updated every time new data is sent to the Google Analytics server.
2 years after last activity
Jetpack's built-in visitor analytics. It records page views, referring sites, search terms, and outbound link clicks, and also carries the shared visitor-tracking library used by Jetpack Instant Search and WooCommerce Analytics.
