Tag Archives: Chris

A Beast when its East

January 17, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

17th January 2024

Carn Boel (Terrace)
Four Directions – Severe 4b – Lead
Carn Boel Cleft – V Diff – Solo

I really am impressed with how easy the Lands End facility make getting a locals permit for parking. It is a welcome change from those rip off bastards at Porthgwarra who are charging £8.50 a day! Disgraceful really for winter parking.

I know LE’s a tourist attraction, knocked by many, but it has always had its own charm and I have always enjoyed going there. Not least because it is situated on one of the most stunning bits of coast in the UK. The walk in always sets the mood and despite the cold Tom, Chris and me were looking forward to getting on the rock.

I had tried Four Directions with Barry a while back and backed off for a number of reasons. The main one being that it felt quite tough and it was one of Barry’s first outings. Strangely, it was even tougher when your fingers and toes were numb and you are dressed up to the nines.

So it was on with the fannying around getting gear in and trying to sort the ropes out. The crux is about 8 meters up, above a ledge. Its a overhang and to get through it you have to move up left and into a short v groove. The problem is that holds run out as you get into the steeper area, not something you’d expect on a severe. But the cold definitely played a part. If I’m honest I couldnt tell if there were better holds. Once I latched something I had to trust I could hold it because my fingers were so cold. There’s also an interesting wall above the overhang with small foot placements and dubious looking rock. Oh yeh, and the gear goes thin.

Not selling it really am I. Strangely though I did enjoy it. I was also relieved when both Tom and Chris found it hard. It wasnt just me being a pansy.

The cleft was a great ending to the session. Squeezing between trapped boulders and bridging up the narrow cave like recess is so much fun. You emerge back into the light through a narrow opening in the roof. Straight forward as a solo, but dont fall off. You’d rattle on the way down.

Climbing

The rise and fall of the Underbeanie.

January 8, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

8th January 2024

Carn Barra
Taurus the Second – Severe 4b – Alt Lead

Wow, it was brass monkey’s today. Easterly cold breeze and air temperature of around 4 degrees. A beautiful sunny day though, that delivered on so many fronts except for the wet foot from treading in the lake that blocked the lane leading through to the southern end of Carn Barra.

Chris and I mooched around the Weasle area, checking out the fierce looking offwidths of Criss and Iron Cross. Some good climbing to be had here I think, but maybe on a day when you can feel your hands (or maybe thats a good thing ofr these thrutchy fella’s)

We settled on Taurus the Second on the upper buttress. Strange how I,ve not done this considering how many times we’ve been here. Still it was an ok climb. A hairy V notch with few hand holds gets you working hard. Good gear, but it feels a bit sketchy because of all the vegetation. Good to do something a bit different though and with the sun out I actually got a bit of a sweat on, which was good reason to not wear our beanie’s under our helmets.

I think both Chris and me were just glad to get out for a bit given all the rain recently. One climb was enough and so it was off to Spoons in Penzance. End of a good day.

Climbing

Second slab on the right after the obvious tuft of grass….

December 15, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

15th December 2023

Penberth

Wavemaster – Diff – Lead
New Bionicle – VS 5a – Lead

I’ve been to Penberth so often its like my second home climbingwise. So it was strange to suddenly not know how to get to the crag. Clearly some coastpath shenanigans have been undertaken, meaning now it runs a bit higher up and the usual descent onto the slabs is bypassed. I think it is to preserve the delicate area just above the rocky platform so its fair enough. But the fact it is quite overgrown gives an indication of how long its been since we were there.

Its a V Diff… or an E1… cant quite remember

Forgetting the guidebook was a first for me. Spending too much time on UKC is a clear cause. Read the route reviews and forget to research where they actually are 🙂 . That wont happen again.

So Wavemaster is a gripfest of a climb. Very soloable, but good as a lead route. The rock is purpose made to be grabbed hold of, course, grainy and positive and was a good opener for the day.

New Bionicle was slightly different. Its very deceptive from below. The clear cracklines are actually shallower than expected, particularly on the right side of the upper slab. Turns out the upper slab holds two routes. The left is a HS and the right a VS, a bit contrived to separate the two, but if you do the right is delicate with few out and out holds and more about your feet.

Climbing on a single rope meant I had to pick a crack. I chose right because I ghought it might be more protectable. Jury is out on that one. The final move to the apex jug is ‘adventurous’ ( that one was for Barry). In the wet the whole affair feels a bit slippy but still great climbing. I was very please to see it through, as was Barry, who stepped up quite a bit on this one, into a land of side pulls, chicken heads and small edges.

Meanwhile Chris and Tom were having fun on the main HS which runs up the centre. Always challenging and probably more so given the conditions. The barnacle encrusted lower section is a bit nasty judging by the language coming from Tom. Main thing is we beat the Tide so no wet feet today.

The weather and light made further routes seem a chore so we headed off. Two more climbs bagged at one of my favorite venues. We’ll be back for barbeques and swims in the summer no doubt. Might even try the E1 (Thirty Something’) again haha. Fell off it last time.

Climbing

The Many Faces of Barry D

October 7, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

6th October 2023

Tater Du

Bounce – HVS 5a – T/R
Worry – E2 5c – T/R
Eric’s Route – Severe 4a – Lead

We have all been to that place in climbing, when your body stops behaving and wont do what you want it to. It was Barry’s turn to find the point where he burns out completely occurred today. Multiple attempts on a burly HVS resulted in little left for our final Severe.

Looking across the boulder field of St Loy

I could see the energy draining from him as he gradually progressed up the route and his change in facial expression. To Barry’s credit he never gave up, meaning he topped out with arms of the same texture as solid steel. Lactic Acid I think does this to you.

Still, as days out climbing go this was a good one. Tater Du is always fun to visit, but its also a real effort. The walk in through St Loy and across Boscowen Headland is second to none however for its beauty. And Tater Du always reminds me of a painting more than a cliff.

And there were dolphins!

The reason for all the muscle ache was that we dropped down to the seaward craglets. If I am honest, I was not so impressed with this area. It pales in comparison to TD proper. It is really a series of boulder problems, all be it a bit highball in places. But they do present some tough climbing, but with little gear for the most part.

Erics route was much nicer, with good moves and lots of exposure at the top. A thoroughly good way to finish the day.

I do like these team days out. The company is always great and it has more of a social feel to it. It was also really good to see Tony out again after a gap, and climbing really well. It bodes well for future trips. Bring on the next one.

Climbing

Red Stockings and Lipstick

September 29, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

29th September 2023

Sennen

Skewcrack – Severe 4b – Lead
Black Jack – Severe 4b – Part Lead

The Chough really is the ‘tart’ of the Corvus/Pyrrhocorax family. They were buzzing around us all day, but on one occasion a flock of about 6 went by with one Jackdaw in the middle. He was clearly being upstaged by the much brighter Choughs with their red bills and legs. They clearly had their make-up on.

The numbers would seem to confirm the belief that this has been a really good year for breeding Choughs. I rekon there were between 6 to 8 of them buzzing around for most of the day.

The climbing also sparkled, although Chris may have a different take on the day after his epic battle with Black Jack. Fairly innocuous from the ground it has a very tricky section as you break out of the initial twin cracks. For Chris, this was a day his head was clearly not in the game. I have had many similar days. It just happens.

Both climbs were good though. Challenging and typical Sennen, at the top of the grade. The thundering surf below only added to the drama, with Tom even having a game of chicken with the spray shooting up over the main platform.

We all need to spend more time climbing to get back to our previous abilities and grades. It will come. The trick I think is not to rush or you’ll be listening to the little voices in your head going:-

‘This is too hard for me… just give up. Why do I climb anyway? I dont neeed to make this climb. Lets have lunch’………..

Climbing

A strange door obsession

August 23, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

23rd August 2023

Bosigran – Main Face

Doorway – Severe 4a – Alt Lead (P1)
Doorpost – HS 4b – Alt Lead (P2)

This was an occasion for re-visiting some old favourites and picking up on the theme of doors, we opted for two absolute classics.

To be fair it was great to just spend time on the rock and both routes are challenging enough to keep you sharp. I absolutely love climbing at Bosigran. It was one of the first places Bart ever took me when we started climbing. And what a revelation it was. I remember doing Andrew and realising that climbing was going to be the source of my adventures going forward.

F#@k surfing and crowds with bad attitude.

Here you can be with mates in the solitude of some of the most beautiful parts of Cornwall surrounded by good vibes and excitement. I have said before that it gives me the same buzz as I had when I started surfing back in the 80’s with no crowds and just mates for company.

Sat on a belay ledge 200ft up a cliff makes you reflect on these things and realise how lucky you are. I think I’ll always think of myself as foremost a surfer, but the reality now is that I climb a lot more than I surf.

Climbing

Difficult = Fun, Very Difficult = even more fun

August 17, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

17th August 2023

Carn Boel – Upper Terrace

Bitter End – V Diff – Lead
Kari – V Diff – Alt Lead
Longships Ridge – Diff – Second

What a great day out on the Cornish sea cliffs. I’d not climbed on the Terrace at Carn Boel for 13 years. I’d forgotten what it was like and the previous route I’d done ‘Kari’ was lost in the mists of time, although I was to get a quick reminder as I arrived on the belay ledge after pitch 1.

So, lots of sunshine and great climbing, equals loads of fun. Every route was excellent. Bitter End was absorbing all the way through, with a few tricky moves, a very hollow flake and a surprising top slab full of holds. The top slab looks awful from below, but is actually great fun.

Kari has a burly overhang which is quite intimidating, especially for Chris on the lead. But the holds are there, if not obvious at first glance. The top ramp is memorable. It doesn’t look difficult, but the whole affair is off camber and pushes you out into some exciting territory.

And finally Dave’s lead on Longships Ridge was superb. For a Diff this offers great climbing in an exposed position. Definitely a climb that should be on a V Diff leaders tick list.

Climbing

There was a man who swallowed a fly……

June 13, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

13th June 2023

Butter Hole – Hidden Amphitheatre

Mores the Pity – Severe 4b – Lead

So another beautiful evening at Butter Hole and this one included an epic. Chris’ words to Mike, “Its always an epic with Ian!” rang truer than usual with an outing to a part of the cliff which can only be described as fluid.

As a start we backed up the pretty rusty in situ belay stakes with a couple of our own. Good job really as the abseil went straight over the cave and we all had a bit of air time. I should have know that the upper sections would be loose when a couple of large blocks detached as I gingerly abbed off the grassy ledge.

The hidden amphitheatre, as it is called, is actually very impressive. On a sunny evening like we had with no swell it was idylic. It probably warranted a swim, but we underestimated how long I would faff on the fairly tough 4b crux of MTP. My head is definitely not quite there yet. I feel good in my climbing, but cant combine the two at the moment. It will come.

The crux is through an overhang, into a groove. Good pro for the move into the groove, but the holds run out just above and so does the gear for a bit. Add a desire to not trust the rock and you have the perfect head game.

It seemed a bit unfair on Mike. Only his second outing in a while and we all ended up on a belay at mid height. It turned out to be the right move as everything above moved, fell off or was grass. The size of some of the boulders Chris was moving around as he threaded his way to the ab rope was definitely disturbing.

But, we all made it out alive which is a bonus. In review, a good lower section and a suicidal upper one. No stars this time, but for drama what more could you ask for. The mist at the end added to this as we all left fairly content with our achievements.

As for the fly I inhaled and which got stuck in my throat on the way in. Well, its the first meat I’ve eaten in 30 years.

Climbing

40 doesn’t make a Right Angle

September 1, 2022 dillwat Leave a comment

1st September 2022

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS – 4b (variation) Lead P1, P3

Climbing seems to be becoming a very intermittent activity for me at the moment. So it was really good to get out with Chris and get back on the rock.

A return to a classic is always worthwhile and Right Angle is unmistakably a classic. Never hard, but continually interesting with three distinct sections. A fairly juggy and contorted first pitch, leads to an unlikely second with a bare looking wall 9if you do the variation VS version which tbh feels no harder than the original line). And then of course you have the vertical corner pitch. Glorious climbing in a great position.

We only did the one route. It seemed enough on the day. I think sometimes you just have to make the most of a route like RA. Chatting with the Royal Marines added some interest. What an amazing job they have, although I wouldn’t fancy it in times like this.

So Chris and I are going to revisit some classics now. Check back through the log book and pick up on some of the early routes we did when we were ‘learning the ropes’. Oh yes. And 40m ropes are not quite long enough. 50’s are better for RA.

Climbing

Losing Mementom

May 14, 2021 dillwat 1 Comment

14th May 2021
Black Carn South

Memento/London Bridge Combo – VS 4c – Lead Onsight
Chico – HS 4b – Second
Zeppo – VS 4c – Lead

Last time at CBS Chris and I got terribly lost. I knew from the guide book that there were plenty of mid grade routes, but we didnt seem to find them. So we returned intending to get our bearings and get on a few of them.

Well, getting our bearings using the guide book descriptions wasnt easy. For some mad reason the guide just ignores the blatently obvious features of the crag and does the usual ‘ to the left of the rounded arete’ or ‘just right of the obvious crack’. Well what about the fucking obvious massive chimney, or the huge jammed boulder or even better the startling diagonal quartz vein that slices through the top of the buttress.

Christ they make it hard. Even when we did find the routes, the descriptions still didnt tally properly. At least not in a clear way. So I’ve added some topos here which might help us if we go again in the future.

The described line for Memento looks highly unlikely at VS and I didnt go near it. 6 metres of unprotected tricky climbing doesnt seem in keeping with the grade. Two alternatives look better. Continue up a further two metres and go left at a horizontal break which may provide pro or go up the left hand side of the chimnet (again looks quite tough) but there are places for nuts/small cams. Then go right at the large ledge below the trapped boulders.

My combo was entertaining and the top part is nice climbing. The bottom is gritty and fragile but this is in keeping with many of the routes.

Chico and Zeppo were similar in difficulties. Harder at the starts and then pleasant climbing. But both are short and divided by a large ledge. Be aware that Zeppo now has a nice hold at the top thanks to the original rock fracturing and a large rock detaching. Fortunately not with me hanging on 🙂

Will return to do the harder routes once my fitness is fully back. But a nice venue to spend a day.

The Magik Rock

Tag Archives: Chris

A Beast when its East

The rise and fall of the Underbeanie.

Second slab on the right after the obvious tuft of grass….

The Many Faces of Barry D

Red Stockings and Lipstick

A strange door obsession

Difficult = Fun, Very Difficult = even more fun

There was a man who swallowed a fly……

40 doesn’t make a Right Angle

Losing Mementom

Why it never rains on a Friday!