10th September 2009
Gurnards Head
Right Angle – HS4b – Alt Lead
We’d checked out Right Angle a few months earlier on a windy day with a big swell running. On that occasion the crag was intimidating, with spray blasting out of the mouth of the cave just below the route.
On this day it was different, with the sun shining and the route sheltered from the stiff northerly, although when I spoke to the pair in front of us he described the scene below the belay ledge as a ‘maelstrom’!. The cave was still booming away, but it didnt seem so threatening, probably because the sun was out.. We had a short wait whilst two other climbers completed the first two pitches and then it was off across the long traverse into Right Angle.
Right Angle has a serious feel to it, probably because once you commit into the climb it is not really escapeable, except by climbing back out. The first pitch woke us up, with Chris feeling a bit nervy at first. Probably because you go straight into full on exposure (that’s traverses for you). The climbing wasnt hard, but you had to constantly think about your second when setting pro.
This became clear for me on the second pitch which I led. Again not hard climbing but the decent down to the ledge is tricky. The previous pair shouted down to me to go lower which I duely did, although I think that I should have traversed earlier across to the belay ledge. A tip here. Climb with two ropes. That way you can clip one when leading down and setting pro for your second, but leave one only clipped to the top piece of pro. This eliminates the swing potential when you finally traverse to the ledge.
Unfortunately I went too low and ended up climbing back up to the ledge, which put a nice S in my rope work and immediately popped my pro on the ascent. This made my slip on wet rock just before I made the ledge all the more poignant with a possible 15ft fall and a dangle in the sea.
So the order of the day is good rope work. The noise from the waves was loud. A consatnt booming, with the odd set sending spray up to the belay ledge. The assault on the senses was overwhelming but added to the excirement of the climb. Chris made a good job of seconding to the ledge. Probably more threatening than leading because you are above the gear until the last few feet.
Then it was off up the main crack. After all the traversing the ascent seemed less technical, with one tricky overhang. But the exposure and amazing climbing was just brilliant. it’s a long climb out which Chris led ( I intend to try it for myself at some point) and its only when you hit the top that you realise how sheltered you are down in the zawn.
One of my favorire climbs and a day that left Chris and I buzzing. Over 3 hours of high adventure!
