Been a long time coming, but finally I’ve done the great odyssey of JtI. What a route! Fragile Rock, huge exposure, tricky route-finding and rope drag. It’s got it all.
Looking back up the ramp having established the belay at the end of Pitch 1
When Nick had suggested climbing, I didnt anticipate Carn Gowla, but once again the dry spring meant a often wet crag was in condition. Couple this with a lifting of the ban which had been in place last year because of Peregrins and JtI was on.
Pitch 2
It’s 5 pitches. Pitch 1 is a descent of a ramp to what is really the first belay. Then the interesting climbing really starts. Each pitch has its own character. I would say P4 has the single hardest move (and the most exposure), but P5 is the most sustained and has the additional problem of rope drag, which should not be underestimated.
Belay at the end of Pitch 2
It’s a full outing, but so engaging time just flies. Add in the impressive sea state with roaring and surging surf, wind and seagulls and your senses are overwhelmed. It is such a privelege to be able to climb in these areas. Something few get to witness which makes it feel even more special.
Nick nearing the end of Pitch 4
It was so good to climb together with Nick after what has been a long break. I’m sure now we’ll get on it and bag a few more epics before the end of the year.
Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead
Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.
So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.
Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.
Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.
We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.
What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.
Meteor – VS 4b – Lead Three Tiers (Variation Finish) – HVS 5b – Lead
If I’m honest, my target for this day was Kafka’s Wound, an HVS in the Micronut Wall area of Green Lanes Cliff. However the tide was still a bit full, so we returned to the Cull area.
Kafka’s Wound
I’m still struggling with moving up the grades. Confidence really, but time at the wall has helped me trust my endurance and strength, so jumping in at VS seemed ok.
Dave about to start Comet
Comet is a climb which gradually gets harder, culminating in a steep top wall with dubious rock and nervy gear. Its a great climb to get your head in the game and Dave and me were ready to up the anti.
Dave on the middle tier of Three Tiers
Three Tiers is just that. A blocky but easy bottom tier which we solo’d. Followed by a steep wall with small holds and foot placements and little gear. Followed by a steep, slightly thuggy headwall which just completes a challenging overall climb.
Dave on the upper tier headwall of Three Tiers
Finding gear on the second tier was a real mission. I ended up with a shocking cam and a solid micronut in a split which didn’t look like it would last long under load. Still I didn’t need it, but the climbing is technical and thoughtful. I loved it. Dave also had the biggest smile when he topped out. And its testament to how much he’s come along since getting back into climbing, that he got up an HVS. And 5b no less!
Green Lanes Cliff area
Meanwhile Chris and Tom were also pushing, with Chris getting on Meteor as well and providing a very vocal audience for Dave while he climbed Three Tiers.
Crack of Doone – HS 4b – Lead Crack of Noone – HVS 5a – Second (dnf) Icarus – HS 4a – Lead
There’s nothing like being upstaged by a goat. It was a real surprise to me to see goats wandering casually about on the face of the crag we were about to go climbing on. I falways find it bewildering how goats have such agility on steep ground. They do not look built for it and their hooves are not exactly ‘five-tens’.
Crack of Doone on Devils Cheesewring
Anyway, I’m getting ahead of myself because we saw them on Icarus the last climb of the day. I spent the night at Tarka Trail Camping, not cheap (£18) for me and a small tent, but good facilities and a soft flat pitch. It was a late dinner, but sat watching the stars while munching on my pasta and pesto was brilliant.
Devils Cheesewring in the background
As a starter we set off for Crack of Doone, a fairly innocuous looking rock pillar which delivered a surprisingly tough Hard Severe. The start of this climb is steep. Good holds and pro, but you have to work hard to get established and it doesn’t let up until you gain the main ledge. I had a little wobble trying to get over the final face. Committed… stopped…tried to reverse… that wasnt happening…. so went for it. And made it thankfully. My head still isnt quite in the right place, but climbing with Joe has certainly helped it in the right direction.
Crack of Noon on Castle Rock
it was Joe’s turn next to pick a beast of a VS. An overhanging jamming crack. Great, a combination of everything I’m shit at. This was going to go well then. Joe, on the lead of course, made it look a lot easier than it was. I however made it look a lot more difficult than it was. Cant jam, puny muscles equals failure. But I will be back when in better condition and give it a good spanking.
Our Goat friends
For me, the highlight of the trip was Icarus. Some bush bashing was required to get in as you come at the climb from below. I suppose you could ab in, but this was more fun, especially with the goats for company. Icarus starts off fairly straight forward. A couple of awkward moves need to be made to get established on the face. But then the exposure kicks in as well as a couple of spicy moves as you move up a slab on its left edge. Feels proper out there and is so much fun The crux for me was the traverse at the top. You leave your last couple of small wires behind and teeter around the seaward face on a ledge which feels very precarious despite being quite large. It because you are pushed out and the potential for barn dooring off is always there. It also goes on for longer than expected. But what a great finish to a superb climb. A real highlight.
Icarus – HS 4a with the left arete leading to the overhang
Valley of Rocks is a venue I intend to get back to. Lots of low grade routes and a beautiful area. Would be a good day out with the boys. Or get back up here for another 2 dayer with Joe.
Silk – Severe 4a – Lead Satin – HVS 5a – Second Mozambique – VS 4c – Lead
Its been a while since Joe and I got to climb together, so this was always going to be a good day out. One thing I can guarantee is that I will end up being challenged and this day was no exception.
Foxhole Slabs feels remote and you can only access it a few hours after high tide. The Peregrines we annoyed by being in the area were testament to this. They are astonishing birds, sleek and powerful. Their cries are so distinctive. An adult and juvenile let us know they were around. Such a beautiful spot though, a bit King Kong’ish with all the dark rock spires and sea mist. And of course there was no one around. Only the odd voice drifting across from Welcome Mouth.
Joe had wanted to go to one of the few places on the Culm he’d not been to, so I was more than willing to give it a go. Just up the coast from Welcome Mouth is a series of slabs which offer great, steep climbing, typical of this area.
I got to start on the most amenable climb of the day in Silk. Never desperate, it still gives a great line following cracks and overlaps to a pretty dodgy belay. The bottom 2/3rds is fine. The top part, although not steep, needs some gardening, probably reflecting the little traffic it receives.
Joes lead followed a line to the right, which instantly was more difficult. Poor pro initially and spaced hand holds meant you had to rely a lot on friction with your feet. Easy enough on the second, but it must be intimidating on the lead. Mind you, Joe is like a limpet on these slabs.
Mozambique was a much greater test of my current mental strength. The opening 5a sequence is tricky and without Joe encouraging me to push through I would probably have sat on the ropes or come back down. Having made the initial move, there is another hard section. Strangely I found this easier, but I was still choughed to bits to have led this climb cleanly. It was for me the route of the day. Excellent climbing throughout and worth I think 3 stars in most peoples book.
Reflecting my current climbing fitness, I was knackered by the end of the day, but at the same time buzzing from what was one of the best days climbing I’ve had for a while. And more to come tomorrow with another new venue on the cards.
Down Under, Up Top – VS 4c – Second Aoetearoa – HS 4b – Second Colonial Solidarity – Severe 4a – Lead Boomerang – HVS 5a – Lead
Three always sounds like a problematic number when your climbing and if it involves multi-pitch routes I’d agree. But we’ve been finding three a good sociable number and todays shared adventure was a pleasure from start to finish.
Looking down Down Under zawn
I,ve spent a fair few weeks exploring Preddanck Head with Dave, but this was the first for Chris and although Tom’s been there a few times this was his first outing in Down Under Zawn. And for me, I had a couple of routes in mind, both of which were new. This early in the year I never quite know where I’m at with stamina and strength, so I knew Boomerang would be a test.
April in Cornwall is a special time of the year. The Gorse is in full flower, with its Coconut and Buttery flavour, Pink Campion is all around and everything just feels fresh. New beginnings. Its inspirational, which I’m sure spurs your overall sense of wellbeing along.
Chris on Aoetearoa. On the amazing flake.
So where to begin. I knew both Aoetearoa and Down Under, Up Top would be classics for Chris and Tom and despite having climbed them a few times I never tire of the routes. Chris is on form at the moment and sailed through both. The vid below time captures DUUT and gives an idea of how good the route is.
For me, I found a little gem in Colonial Solidarity. Although Severe it packs a punch. A burly opening move leads into a crack which provides great climbing. Steep and entertaining.
Tom working his way up Colonial Solidarity
But Boomerang was my main target. I had a feeling it might be a bit beefy for me and after a tricky scramble to get to the starting block, I looked up to have my beliefs confirmed. It was going to be beefy. From below you can see the curved line but it is obviously overhanging at the top crack. Gear looked good and with Crack Gloves on, I set off.
Chris psyching up for Boomerang…… or not!
Its one of those climbs where each time you think ‘This is it, I’m off’ another hold appears. Lots of hidden juggy rails and crimps. It was a case of keep moving and hope the stamina stays there. And it did 🙂 In the end it went well. No really desperate moments, and I always felt safe. A really good tick and a climb I can thoroughly recommend.
Cosy belay of Boomerang
The way off is by means of an abb with a rope thrown around a rock bollard. You conveniently arrive back in the zawn just above DUUP. So it would have been churlish for Chris not to have led it.
Toms home made crack gloves
What I can also say is that COVID seems to have had a devastating affect on the local pub population. Looking for somewhere for a pint on the way home proved difficult with pub after pub looking derelict and shut. Lets hope some of these get back going again.
Prowler – HVS 5a – Lead It goes at about VDiff – V Diff – Lead Paddy – Moderate – Solo
Looking across at Greater Rocks
Every time I go to Hound Tor its either freezing, wet, windy or all three. So how good was it that it was sunny and dry. A cold wind but not unbearable and it was possible to bask in sunshine if you were in the lee of the rocks.
I always find Dartmoor tough for the grade. I think its because it requires a different style of climbing to that needed on Penwith Granite. Slopers and friction for your feet are the order of the day and protection always seems to be spaced, but good.
Tom and I opened up on a V Diff with an appropriate name. A series of rock pancakes with some neat little moves. It definitely introduced us to the spirit of climbing at Hound Tor.
Prowler, the stepped crack with a left jink
Climb 2 was a bit tougher. Actually HVS which surprised me. Not because it was soft at the grade, but because I got up it! Prowler has a hard start and remains fairly strenuous until you hit the first break. Then there’s a chance to recoup before blasting away again at the top crack. I was more pleased with this because it was strenuous and I found my strength and stamina equal to it.
Paddy
Tom used Paddy as a means of getting his eye in on a lead (After we retrieved my guide book from the instructor who had mistakenly picked it up), although its a nice climb in its own right. Just watch the incredibly large moving boulders found at the top. And by the way the descent isn’t a push over. This would be something to keep in mind if a novice was topping out.
We finished off with a mooch to Greater Rocks. Looks like some good routes here and a fun little ridge traverse across the two stacks. Great fun.
Back towards the parking
So the drive in had been down narrow lanes coming in from the A30 north of Oakhampton. So we tried the Widecombe way. Guess what? Still narrow lanes. I think any cross Dartmoor route is likely to end up down little lanes so the A38 Newton Abbot journey is the fastest and least tortuous of all of them.
Gelert – HS 4b – Second Pudsey – VS 4c – Lead Doc – HVS 5b – Lead
So after Lockdown number 2, Chris and I finally got out for a days climbing. This last batch of lockdown has seemed increasingly drawn out. Coronavirus continues to dog the world, tearing up the norm and replacing it with some form of twisted altered life… similar to before but not quite the same.
Black Carn South
As Chris climbed into my car, I couldn’t help but catch myself thinking ‘is this safe? Am I doing the right thing?’. That’s what 12 months of isolation does to you. Its the new norm. Every decision has the virus at its root. But is it more dangerous than climbing? Not today it wasnt! As usual Chris and I set out for a relaxed ‘re-connection’ with climbing, but in usual fasion it turned into an epic. And why not 🙂
Being fairly rusty on all things at the crag, our first dilemma was whether Chair Ladder was bird banned. BMC RAD advised it was from Lacertian to Mitre. Where the hell is Lacertian. We didn’t find out on the day but after a bit of research we figured it must have meant Laceration. Didn’t really matter in the end, because we headed off for some Black Carn shenanigans.
Belay of Gelert HS 4b
Repeats of Gelert and Pudsey followed, rekindling the climbing vibe. Interestingly I found the scramble in and around the crag equally as enjoyable. It was just good to be hands on granite. Black Carn is a lovely secluded location. Drop down by the wall and then angle across bouldery ground for a neat little area with steep and pristine granite.
Fancy a swim?
Feeling confident, Chris and I headed over to the zawn on the South side, an area we’d not been to. Some tricky scrambling leads down to an amazing gulley with a sort of massive chock stone. This creates a pool behind but is just a lid allowing the water to flow under it. Very cool and a definite location for a swim when the sea warms a bit. As a potential practice for the Cuillin we thought that trying the ‘easy’ V Diff corner we had spotted would be perfect.
Ian Jumps!!
Doh! Not V Diff. Turns out it was Doc, an HVS 5b. In approach shoes. I did my best to look thoroughly terrified as I tried to top out way above my gear. Gone were any ethics on knees, teeth and any other part of my body that could grip the rock. A seal flop onto the top gave me enough respite to place gear and finish off with a little more elegance. Still I’d rather be lacking in style and alive. So much fun. That’s type 3 fun.
Chris Moving up Doc HVS 5b
Nursing our scars and cuts Chris and I ambled back to the car with that stupid contented grin you only get when things have pushed you beyond. Fuck COVID. I can find much more interesting ways to kill myself if I want to.
Sometimes in winter you get a morning light that just brings everything to life. It enhances the natural beauty of an area and creates a sharp relief on all the elements around you.
So it was on this day. Cold, bright but unlikely to deliver anything special because it had been so damp. However if the best could be made of a day we did it. I tend to dread going to Cribba Head because I know I’ll be in for a beasting. Going to Cribba with Joe just enhances all my fears.
I’m so glad this was a top roping session though. Many months of inaction had atrophied my muscles, so even on the dependable Harder I found everything difficult. Weird how you can start up a climb you’ve done a number of times before (on the lead) and suddenly realise you’ve forgotten how to climb. I made a right fist of it, out of balance, not bridging and clinging onto the weirdest of holds. About as awkward as it could have been.
Which is why climbing Bottleneck was surprisingly less difficult. The first time led this I left skin all over the rock and got myself fully stuck in the …. well… bottleneck. This time it was still tough but I actually climbed it a bit better. Maybe next time it will go ok. But I doubt it.
Finally there was the obligatory play on Boysend Cracks. No strength at the moment but I can see how I could get this on the lead. I just need to be a bit stronger and have jamming gloves on 🙂
This was the cry of someone who hasnt climbed for a while and is suddenly asking muscles to do things they just cant remember. The strange thing about this day was the fact I felt like I’d forgotten everything I knew about climbing. No technique, noflexibility, no finger or arm strength, poor footwork.
The view to St Loy from Cribba Head
The list goes on. But by the end of the day it was coming back and it makes me realise how I need to be out regularly on the rock to keep that normal momentum going. I could blame lockdown and injuries, but I think my motivation has been lacking, so a session with Joe, who is climbing brilliantly was just what was needed to remind me why I love to climb.
Joe on Pass the Pigs E4 6a
Oh yeh, and boy do I ache. Thats enough whining though. The day was great fun and it was so good to be back on the rock. Thats it now. Back to it I think. Need to rack up the lieage and start looking at my tick list.
For this day top roped efforts on Harder and Bottleneck were enough for me. Struggled on T/R but led them in the past. Strange how things change.
Lunch View – typical post industrial wasteland!
And as always amazing views and atmosphere. Only to be expected in Cornwall.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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