Predennack Head
30th April 2021
Down Under, Up Top – VS 4c – Second
Aoetearoa – HS 4b – Second
Colonial Solidarity – Severe 4a – Lead
Boomerang – HVS 5a – Lead
Three always sounds like a problematic number when your climbing and if it involves multi-pitch routes I’d agree. But we’ve been finding three a good sociable number and todays shared adventure was a pleasure from start to finish.
I,ve spent a fair few weeks exploring Preddanck Head with Dave, but this was the first for Chris and although Tom’s been there a few times this was his first outing in Down Under Zawn. And for me, I had a couple of routes in mind, both of which were new. This early in the year I never quite know where I’m at with stamina and strength, so I knew Boomerang would be a test.
April in Cornwall is a special time of the year. The Gorse is in full flower, with its Coconut and Buttery flavour, Pink Campion is all around and everything just feels fresh. New beginnings. Its inspirational, which I’m sure spurs your overall sense of wellbeing along.
So where to begin. I knew both Aoetearoa and Down Under, Up Top would be classics for Chris and Tom and despite having climbed them a few times I never tire of the routes. Chris is on form at the moment and sailed through both. The vid below time captures DUUT and gives an idea of how good the route is.
For me, I found a little gem in Colonial Solidarity. Although Severe it packs a punch. A burly opening move leads into a crack which provides great climbing. Steep and entertaining.
But Boomerang was my main target. I had a feeling it might be a bit beefy for me and after a tricky scramble to get to the starting block, I looked up to have my beliefs confirmed. It was going to be beefy. From below you can see the curved line but it is obviously overhanging at the top crack. Gear looked good and with Crack Gloves on, I set off.
Its one of those climbs where each time you think ‘This is it, I’m off’ another hold appears. Lots of hidden juggy rails and crimps. It was a case of keep moving and hope the stamina stays there. And it did 🙂 In the end it went well. No really desperate moments, and I always felt safe. A really good tick and a climb I can thoroughly recommend.
The way off is by means of an abb with a rope thrown around a rock bollard. You conveniently arrive back in the zawn just above DUUP. So it would have been churlish for Chris not to have led it.
What I can also say is that COVID seems to have had a devastating affect on the local pub population. Looking for somewhere for a pint on the way home proved difficult with pub after pub looking derelict and shut. Lets hope some of these get back going again.
