Further than you think
2nd June 2014
Scorreggiando – 5a – Lead
Mutando – 5b – Lead
Gento in Poppa – 5b, 5c, 6a – Alt Lead
Ferry 1 – 5b – Lead
When you want an easy area to access while in Cala Gonone, Cala Fuili is the place. Drive down a short road. Park up and in 5 minutes your in a valley full of crags.
It still takes a bit of sorting out when locating the first routes. Once you’ve got it sorted though there is plenty to choose from. Chris and I were climbing on this day and started in a strange hidden alcove amoung the trees. The two routes were also a bit strange. You wander through a tunnel like gap to find yourself in a small open area below a short spire.
The two climbs are very diffrent from each other. The first has deep incredibly sharp fissures and the second is a tricky bridging move onto a ledge. hard but short. Good openers for what was to follow although me and Chris had no idea what Codula Fuili was going to serve up!
Gento a Poppa is a crazy climb. PI is tough with a full on run out section at the end of the first pitch. P2 is tricky but we read it wrong finishing too early. So Chris climbed the run out part of P2 instead of P3 which I ended up with. And of course P3 was run out in sections as well. And also provided the strangest pitch of the trip with a traverse across weird smooth and slopey limestone. Very insecure.
It all finished at a rock fall and loose large boulders which stopped me in my tracks and resulted in some tree climbing to reach the belay of an adjacent climb. All really enjoyable but strange.
We finished on Ferry1. Not one I would recommend. This part of Fuili is quite polished because of its proximity to the parking and the beach.
The bar becond where we could discuss our prposed adventure for the next day. Cala Luna – it looks good.