Tag Archives: Penberth

Blind Spot

October 9, 2025 dillwat 1 Comment

9th October 2025

Penberth

Ragamutti – Severe 4a – Lead
Short back and Sides – Severe 4a – Second
Such Fun – VS 5a – Lead

Dont know how many times I’ve been to Penberth, but somehow missed the three climbs we did today. You even have to walk past them to get to Thirty Something etc.

So Chris and I were really pleased to find these three easily accessible climbs. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures wierdly. Considering I post so many on the blog. This isnt the first time recently that I’ve not taken photos though. I’m wondering whether it’s down to the mobile phone ‘does it all’ phenomenon.

So this years resolution is to get back to using a proper camera more often. And making sure I pack it.

All three climbs are worthwhile and each brings a different style. All are well protected as well. Ragamutti moves three a niche and up a sloping corner, SBAS is a straight crack climb, but you can make use of features on the face as well and finally Such Fun, although much steeper, is overcome by a couple of thoughtful moves (and is very well protected).

I’ll add some pictures at a later date. But it is good to know that Chris and I can still find new adventures in old hunting grounds.

Climbing

Second slab on the right after the obvious tuft of grass….

December 15, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

15th December 2023

Penberth

Wavemaster – Diff – Lead
New Bionicle – VS 5a – Lead

I’ve been to Penberth so often its like my second home climbingwise. So it was strange to suddenly not know how to get to the crag. Clearly some coastpath shenanigans have been undertaken, meaning now it runs a bit higher up and the usual descent onto the slabs is bypassed. I think it is to preserve the delicate area just above the rocky platform so its fair enough. But the fact it is quite overgrown gives an indication of how long its been since we were there.

Its a V Diff… or an E1… cant quite remember

Forgetting the guidebook was a first for me. Spending too much time on UKC is a clear cause. Read the route reviews and forget to research where they actually are 🙂 . That wont happen again.

So Wavemaster is a gripfest of a climb. Very soloable, but good as a lead route. The rock is purpose made to be grabbed hold of, course, grainy and positive and was a good opener for the day.

New Bionicle was slightly different. Its very deceptive from below. The clear cracklines are actually shallower than expected, particularly on the right side of the upper slab. Turns out the upper slab holds two routes. The left is a HS and the right a VS, a bit contrived to separate the two, but if you do the right is delicate with few out and out holds and more about your feet.

Climbing on a single rope meant I had to pick a crack. I chose right because I ghought it might be more protectable. Jury is out on that one. The final move to the apex jug is ‘adventurous’ ( that one was for Barry). In the wet the whole affair feels a bit slippy but still great climbing. I was very please to see it through, as was Barry, who stepped up quite a bit on this one, into a land of side pulls, chicken heads and small edges.

Meanwhile Chris and Tom were having fun on the main HS which runs up the centre. Always challenging and probably more so given the conditions. The barnacle encrusted lower section is a bit nasty judging by the language coming from Tom. Main thing is we beat the Tide so no wet feet today.

The weather and light made further routes seem a chore so we headed off. Two more climbs bagged at one of my favorite venues. We’ll be back for barbeques and swims in the summer no doubt. Might even try the E1 (Thirty Something’) again haha. Fell off it last time.

Climbing

Mileage!

January 25, 2019 dillwat Leave a comment

Penberth
25th January 2019

They do at that age – E1 5b – T/R (pretend HVS)
Thirty Something – E1 5b – T/R
WKD! – E3 5b – T/R (More like E2 at most)
Head Rush – E1 5a – T/R

Toblerone – Diff – Solo
Iron Filings – V Diff – Solo
Rubble Trouble -Severe – Solo
Duck Soup – V Diff – Solo
Horse Feathers – Dif – Solo
D Tain – Diff – Solo
D Tour – V Diff – Solo

Time to test the dodgy shoulder I thought on Thursday, so a trip to a well know and familiar hunting ground was in order. I love Penberth. Not because its the mecca of Cornish climbing because it certainly isnt. But because its easy to access, beautiful and has a good vibe about it.

Add to this that it brings back great memories of climbing with Bart (RIP) and it was a good choice for a day when I wanted to climb as much as possible. Also it has a plethora of potential solo’s to keep you occupied between routes. We Top Rope mostly, but the quality of climb meant that it was just a joy to be on the rock. We did most of the E1’s twice so by the end of the day I was confident my shoulder was back in shape.

Its hard to find a bad climb at Penberth. The soloing is straight forward and fun and the harder routes are just quality providing a bit of everything. ‘They do At That Age’ is the show stopper, a 3 star route if I’ve ever seen one. Delicate traverse leads to a crack which requires thought to exit which in turn leads to a hairy, gritty chimney. What more could you ask for.

Me on Thirty Something (where it starts to get interesting)

Tom, Dave and I had a full on day and I think that every so often this is the way to do a day. Get on a top rope and get some mileage in. Great for the confidence.

Me on Thirty Something (where it starts to get interesting)
Tom about to exit the crack on ‘They do at that Age’
Dave on TDATA
TDATA – Steep aint it!
A different perspective on ‘They do at that age’
Above the pool opposite the Golden Buttress
Starfish! Delicately beautiful
Tom gaining height on WKD!
Tom on the bold arete of Head-Rush
Contemplating Head-Rush
Happy Chappies!!!!

Climbing

Jet Wash

July 3, 2015 dillwat Leave a comment

3rd July 2015

Penberth Cove

Nicks Niche – Severe – 4a Second

Horney – VS 4c – Second

Penberth was of course the original venue at which Iwas introduced to climbing by Bart. It therefore holds very fond memories for me and returning there is never a chore.

A new member of our group came along. For Harrison it was his first experience of outdoor climbing and my thought was that Penberth provided a good venue where we could tackle a few reasonably graded routes while at the same time introducing him to the safety routines and climbing protocols that he’ll need when we go to the more serious venues like Bosi or Chair Ladder (no I wouldnt… not yet anyway).

So during the course of the day we visited some Penberth classics such as Nicks Niche and The Hornet, as well as spending some time in Area 5 which needs a low tide. It was good practice for Chris and I as well as we went though some of the basics, which we always need refreshers on.

The rising tide, which almost caught us on Nicks Niche ( a wave actually spat just past me soaking the whole climb but miraculaously missing me!!) eventually pushed us to the Hornet where Chris and Harrison on his first attempt, made short work of of what I had always found a difficult climb. Must have been me then…

Harrison on the face left of Nicks Niche

Meanwhile Joe and Tom had mooched over to Porthguarnon to something very hard (around E3 I believe), but did return for a quick run on Groucho.

There are two E1’s here at Penberth which I would like to try, so I might pay a mornings vist on the way through on one of our outings and try and get on them.

Climbing

How Old?

June 17, 2012 dillwat Leave a comment

17th June 2012
Penberth

They do at that age – HVS 5a – Lead

I’m not sure what age this climb refers to, but its one I’ve wanted to lead right from when I first started climbing. Penberth was a regular destination back in the mid 00’ies. Lots of top roping and soloing, but I avoided the main problems. Probably because I didn’t feel confident to tackle them.

Penberth_Jun12-(1) — Gearing up for They Do At That Age

My recollection of TDATA was that I fell off it on a Top Rope way back and that it was hard. It lived up to my memories. A great but balanced and airy traverse leads to an awkward crack.

Penberth_Jun12-(14) — Dave on the traverse into the crack

There are plenty of protection opportunities but as you go higher the crack runs out resulting in a transfer across to another crack on the right. This is the crux imo, and takes a bit of working out. The thank God flake tops it off.

Penberth_Jun12-(8) — Pre crux on They Do At That Age

There is an offwidth to finish on, but it is very hairy with lichen and gritty. Also there is no pro and a fall off the top here would result in a 30-40ft wipper. So I balked and escaped sideways, content I’d done what was a fantastic face climb. 3 stars.

Both Dave and Tom finished the wide top crack, which is great for laybacking. It just needs more traffic.

Penberth_Jun12-(20) — Hornet looking deceptively easy angled....

We moved across to Hornet and short but great VS. As with many climbs it looks easier than it is. Dave and Tom practised on gear placement, which on Hornet is not easy.

Penberth_Jun12-(18) — The flared cracks of Hornet

The direct finish is committing. The pro for it is low and in a flared crack so probably not reliable. Take the niche and there are more options. Personally I prefer the groove finish. More technical and rounds off the climb nicely.