Bitter End – V Diff – Lead Kari – V Diff – Alt Lead Longships Ridge – Diff – Second
What a great day out on the Cornish sea cliffs. I’d not climbed on the Terrace at Carn Boel for 13 years. I’d forgotten what it was like and the previous route I’d done ‘Kari’ was lost in the mists of time, although I was to get a quick reminder as I arrived on the belay ledge after pitch 1.
The Terrace Wall.
So, lots of sunshine and great climbing, equals loads of fun. Every route was excellent. Bitter End was absorbing all the way through, with a few tricky moves, a very hollow flake and a surprising top slab full of holds. The top slab looks awful from below, but is actually great fun.
The Top of Bitter End with a happy crew
Kari has a burly overhang which is quite intimidating, especially for Chris on the lead. But the holds are there, if not obvious at first glance. The top ramp is memorable. It doesn’t look difficult, but the whole affair is off camber and pushes you out into some exciting territory.
Dave on the top wall of Bitter End
And finally Dave’s lead on Longships Ridge was superb. For a Diff this offers great climbing in an exposed position. Definitely a climb that should be on a V Diff leaders tick list.
Bosigran Ledge Climb – Hard V Diff – Lead Alison Rib – Diff – Lead
Bosigran sort of acts like a satellite dish with the sun out. It seems to capture every ray that comes through. Add the heat radiating off the granite and it gets pretty warm.
Barry and me found this out the hard way. Even the strong breeze couldn’t make it through, so both climbs were done in the blazing sun. But having said that, they were both great fun. Its been 18 years since I last climbed Ledge Climb with Chris. 18 Years! And before that I’d done it with Bart, although I dont have a record of the date we did it.
I’d forgotten what a superb climb Ledge Climb is. You get straight into some steep ground on the first pitch (no push-over). A meandering second pitch takes you into the heart of Bosi. And then the ‘Coup de Gras’. A chimney followed by the famous ‘ledge’ or ramp. So much exposure combined with great climbing. Its a joyous climb. One to do if you need cheering up because its guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
For Barry, it was a steep learning curve. (Welcome to MagikRock Barry). His first lead follow was Alison Rib and then straight into multi-pitch. No problem with the climbing and a good head for heights. Barry is a natural. I can see many more adventures ahead.
Entente – Diff – Lead Cordiale – Diff – Lead Golden Slab – Diff – Lead
So Dave and I are feeling our way back into climbing and Predannack Head seems to have an abundance of low grade routes, ideal for testing the body, but not stressing it.
Dave abbing into International Buttress
It is also an advantage that International Buttress is relatively close to the parking so provides a short walk in. However what is not so good, is route finding. At least until you ab in when all becomes clearer. The topo diagram in the Climbers Club book seems to distort the actual positions of the climbs. Basically, if you drop down what is an obvious, not too steep gulley to the right of the main buttress you will start to recognise the descriptions.
The line of Entente, just to the left of the ab rope on the lighter coloured rock
Considering we spent the day on Diffs, it was great fun. They are all nice routes. Not demanding, but interesting, and ideal for getting your head back in the right place for leading.
Dave does getting wet
Todays highlight was of course seeing Dave get a soaking while trapped down in the gulley. Ahh, so now you know how it feels Dave! On a serious note, had the swell been bigger it would have been quite dodgy. One to do when things are calmer I think.
Predannack of course just keeps delivering on the entertainment front.
Zig Zag – V Diff – Second Aramis – VS 4c – Lead (Dogd) Bridal Piton Slab – Diff – Second
The climb to Haytor
Haytor always brings its fair share of strain and adrenaline. There’s something about the place that catches me out every time I go. Slopers, rounded horizontal pancakes, deep jams and sometimes tenuous gear makes for an exciting day out. It is ssooo different from West Penwith and maybe thats why we always think the grades are hard. Mind you people say that about West Penwith as well, so maybe its a South West thing.
Chris on Zig Zag
Parking in the lower car park (cos its free) Haytor stands proud and certainly gets your calves and heart warmed up in the approach. It was meant to be calm and sunny conditions, but what we got was blustery and cold with the sun in and out all day. It didnt deter us though so Chris, Tom and I warmed up on Zig Zag.
Heading for the crux on Aramis
There you go, that was straight forward. A bit of effort on the overlap but otherwise alright. Whats all this nonsense about hard grades. So I picked out my usual V Diff to start on as well. Except of course my recent shenanigans with interpreting the guide book kicked in and I plopped myself on a VS mistakenly.
Aramis
I even knew it would be hard. Both Tom and Chris kept saying it didnt look VD Diff. On my third attempt to get through the crux I was kind of agreeing with them. What a beast Aramis is for someone who cant climb chimneys and who’s shit at cracks (even with my new Ocun crack gloves). Perversely I really enjoyed it. Shoulders pumped to buggery and energy levels drained I finally made the crux, a sort of contorted reverse hand layback move… my own invention methinks. And then carried on through to the end. One sit in the harness on my main attempt so not clean by any means, but fun.
Tom on Bridal Piton Slab
The whole climb is a combination of hand jams, arm bars and smearing with your feet. One I’ll try again on my next visit. Low Man proved too cold in the end so we abandoned this as an idea and settled for an easy Diff on the north face. Now I remember leading this back in the day with Bart and Tony H. Why they put me on this one I don’t know because its fucking scary. As Chris found out as he led it in Approach shoes. Good effort as far as I’m concerned. Slippy, with only side pulls and dodgy gear its a Diff to remember. We all broke right at about the mid point. Finishing direct pushes this route into silly territory. I did notice that a chicked head which I distinctly remember from my first ascent was no longer there which could account for why if feels so bold near the top now.
Three dudes on a ledge
That aside, the descent is just as harrowing. A mossy gully of certain death. Thank you to whoever left the tat to ab off. You are a saviour.
Toms surprise at the end of a great day was a bottle of Leffe each, so that we could mull over the ridiculousness of the grades and how much fun we had despite this. Even the Dartmoor Ranger and his guardians couldn’t alter this as they quized us on whether we were going to camp overnight. Good on them for keeping an eye on the moor.
Footloose – VS 4c – Lead The Flake – VS 4c – Lead (Dogged) Mince Pie Problem – Diff – Solo
Everyones entitled to do something stupid once in a while. It helps if the consequences of that stupidity wont be fatal.
Relieved and scared
In hindsight and after reading an article on UKC titled ’10 ways to stay alive while climbing’ I wish I had done things differently. Maybe taken a bit more time thinking things through. The Flake turned out to be a bit of a nightmare really. A very hard (and wet) start with a nice 2ft square moving block finale. All of which added up to Tom not being able to second me because of the danger of the whole lot going. As dodgy as my abseil looked this was not really the danger point. It was backed up by two bomber nuts. The danger was the top blocks breaking loose while I was cleaning my gear and pulverising me.
My ab belay?????
Half of my rack was commited into the climb so the consequences of not retrieving it would be expensive. But gear is meant to save your life, not put it in danger. £200-£300 is a small amount in the scheme of things. Maybe next time I’ll just leave it and renew my rack.
View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.
That adventure aside, the other climb we did was brilliant. Footlosse is balancy, edgy and technical. Pro is adequate but not abundent, but altogether it is a super climb. Setting up the belay can be tricky as Chris found out, having to down climb back to a safe spot. And its not comfortable, but its worth it.
The Main Face area
As is all of Bashers Harbour. A lovely (if loose place), with a remote feel to it and a real spirit of adventure. We had it all on this day; falling rocks, dodgey abseils and a tide that waits for no man and nearly claimed Dave and Chris’s rucksacks, except for the quick witted Tom who leapt across the bolder field to rescue them.
Tom watching Pete on Footloose
The day ended with the demise of my long suffering Lumix Camera as it finally gave it up after having been bashed around the cliffs for 3 years and a solo on Mince Pie Route. Quite enough excitement for one day.
View back to Dave and Chris on the initial buttress.
Tom watching Pete on Footloose
Not quite as bad as it seems as two nuts on the route would protect a failure. But still poor.
No Number – VS 5a – Lead Monday Face – VS 4c – Second Overmarked – HS 4a – Lead Sinners Route – Diff – Solo Juniors Route – Diff – Solo Seniors Route – Diff – Solo
Damp conditions alwyts temper how you approach a days climbing. Despite a favourable forecaste Sennen was slow to dry on this day and as a result we throttled back on our grades.
Are we high enough
Having said that, No Number, my opening route prooved more than a challenge for the conditions. Holds full of water, moist cracks (oooh errr) and unreliable foot placements made it full on. The rising run of flakes is slightly overhanging and therefore fairly strenuous until you reach the base of the upper cracks. Great climbing, but the twin crack finish wasnt on for this day. They were running with water so I detoured onto No Name for a much easier but spectacular finish.
Behind you!
Monday face has all the holds but needs a steady head. Pro is tricky to come by and the strenous positions make it akward to place. Chris enjoyed this one. An ideal route for the conditions. Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on SkrewCrack, which again was probably worth another grade given the conditions. A good lead by Dave who’s consolidating his grades nicely.
Chris on No Number and Dave on Skrewcrack
Overmarked is a weird route. Its basically a couple of moves through an overhang, but is really powerful for a short period. Get your body shape wrong and its a lot more difficult as Chris and I both found.
Dave on Skrewcrack
Unusually for the two of us, Chris and I ended the day with a bit of soloing. Only on the diffs in the Church Window area but it certainly adds a buit of spice to your climbing. What would ordinarily seem simple suddenly becomes a major issue. That said, I think it is good for your climbing as you end up concentrating on just the climbing without all the paraphanalia that normally accompanies leading.
Dolphins! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Very refreshing and the sight of Dolphins just makes you feel good to be alive.
Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead Alison Rib – Diff – Second
It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.
Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus
Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.
Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus
It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.
Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus
Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.
Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.
For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.
Chilled walk back after AC
The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.
After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.
Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Ian on Alison Rib
He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.
I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....
So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.
Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus
I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian….
Ian on Alison Rib
Belay this way?
Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Pete on Alison Rib, placing gear for the first time.
Chilled walk back after AC
Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.
Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus
Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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