Tag Archives: Joe

No footprints in the sand

May 15, 2025 dillwat Leave a comment

15th May 2025

Whirl Pool Buttress
Earthly Powers – E2 5c – Alt Lead

There are occasions when you find yourself outside of your comfort zone. Then there are occasions when you find yourself outside of the outside of your comfort zone. This was one of them.

From the moment I peeked over the top of the headwall while abseiling down, I knew this was going to be an adventure to remember. And it was and for all the right reasons.

All credit for Joe in finding the correct abseil point, which is important as you’ll need that rope later! And also credit to Joe for spotting that this route was going to be in condition after the dry spell we’ve had. Azure sea’s greeted us on the approach and a pristeen little beachonce we landed.

You get a birds eye view of the route on the descent, so it’s easy to see whats coming. It’s steep imposing and in the shade. Being North facing it just doesnt get the sun. This doesnt detract from its quality. Perfect granite ( a little moist in the very early stages) and moves to match.

The first pitch is the crunch one. Joe led this, reaching the reachy move out of the niche fairly quickly. Getting into the niche is not so eay either. However the stretch, is a commiting move. One which you need to get right. And Joe duly delivered. On my go, I have to be honest I felt like it could have gone either way. But as is supported by the comments on UKC, once you go, it’s not so bad.

What follows is no pushover either. A dropping rail, with little for your feet leads to a commiting rock-over. A great pitch of climbing by any standards.

My pitch was definitely easier. It meanders back and forth up the headwall. Good gear keeps the nerves at bay. I went slightly wrong at the top getting a bit off route and barndooring when I reached the grass. But the climb is over by this point, with only the hideous exit up 12ft of vertical grass to contend with.

I am so grateful to have a partner like Joe, who consistently gets me pushing myself. I would not dream of tackling a route like this, without the knowledge that I’m with someone who can get us through the tough bits.

A day that will long stay in my memory.

Climbing

Type 3 fun

May 2, 2025 dillwat Leave a comment

2nd May 2025

Upton Slabs/Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle
Two Pints To Capel – VS 4b – Lead
Pewter Crack – VS 4c – Second
Foaming Jugs – HVS 5a – T/R dnf

It’s not often that I’ve run out of quickdrawers and this was not really the time for me to do it. It definitely made for a very nervy and exciting finish to Two Pints to Capel.

As a VS I was not expecting a route which felt so bold. The rock was the main issue, being unreliable on many occasions and this sows the seeds of doubt about gear placement. There are some good pieces, but a lot are small wire slots which I would not like to load, particularly in a leader fall.

The line of Two Pints to Capel follows the ab rope

The fact I ran out of quickdrawers and cams is testimony to how much gear I placed. It’s a long route, that accumulates in your toes. I found it tested my calmness to it’s limit. At one point, 8ft above my last piece of dubious gear (micro nut) I did question my life choices. Of course as soon as I toped out, it became the best route I’d climbed in ages. It’s all a case of the moment.

Joe just about to move onto the upper headwall

Our next destination was almost as opposite as you could get. A leaning stack of rock. Good gear, big holds but overhanging and very powerful. A proper contrast.

Joe dispatched the VS, but we chose to top rope the HVS. In hindsight, it was well within Joe’s capabilities, but when you havnt been climbing as often, a sense of doubt quickly sets in. It was too much for me with my puny muscles, but it was a great route. I’d like to return with more bravado and power. Maybe then it is within my sights.

So two crags in one day. Not bad. Good to see Joe again as always and good to climb ‘up North’. Will return soon.

Climbing

It’s crystal clear now

November 15, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

15th November 2024

St Loy Cliff

Cress Cendo – VS 5a – Second (Dgd)
Chlorofyl Cluster – E1 5b – TR (Dgd)
The Baldest – E4 5c – TR (Dgd)
Tingaloy – HS 4b – Lead
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second

So, great to be out with Joe again. We dont get to climb that often so this was a make the most of the day.

And it was very much a day of two halves. The morning, one of disappointment and half hearted attemps. The afternoon, one of success and redemption.

I’ve climbed both Crescendo and CC before. This time I failed on both. Probably my head more than anything, but still disappointing. Weird as well because I’ve been climbing a lot indoors and feeling strong. This was born out with my attempt on the Baldest which went well comparatively. Tiny crystal gripping and insecure foot placements typify this great route. I fell once on the crux, but having done it, I now think I might be able to clean it.

Anyway, I finished the day far more strongly. Again on two previously climbed routes, but both good ones. Monochrome Men is still the best. My first E1 no less.

Climbing

When your nuts drop for the second time

April 24, 2024 dillwat Leave a comment

24th April 2024

Cornakey Cliff

Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead
Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second
Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead

Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.

So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.

Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.

Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.

We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.

What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.

Climbing

GOAT – 🐐 Goes Over All Terrain

August 10, 2023 dillwat Leave a comment

10th August 2023

Valley of Rocks

Crack of Doone – HS 4b – Lead
Crack of Noone – HVS 5a – Second (dnf)
Icarus – HS 4a – Lead

There’s nothing like being upstaged by a goat. It was a real surprise to me to see goats wandering casually about on the face of the crag we were about to go climbing on. I falways find it bewildering how goats have such agility on steep ground. They do not look built for it and their hooves are not exactly ‘five-tens’.

Anyway, I’m getting ahead of myself because we saw them on Icarus the last climb of the day. I spent the night at Tarka Trail Camping, not cheap (£18) for me and a small tent, but good facilities and a soft flat pitch. It was a late dinner, but sat watching the stars while munching on my pasta and pesto was brilliant.

As a starter we set off for Crack of Doone, a fairly innocuous looking rock pillar which delivered a surprisingly tough Hard Severe. The start of this climb is steep. Good holds and pro, but you have to work hard to get established and it doesn’t let up until you gain the main ledge. I had a little wobble trying to get over the final face. Committed… stopped…tried to reverse… that wasnt happening…. so went for it. And made it thankfully. My head still isnt quite in the right place, but climbing with Joe has certainly helped it in the right direction.

it was Joe’s turn next to pick a beast of a VS. An overhanging jamming crack. Great, a combination of everything I’m shit at. This was going to go well then. Joe, on the lead of course, made it look a lot easier than it was. I however made it look a lot more difficult than it was. Cant jam, puny muscles equals failure. But I will be back when in better condition and give it a good spanking.

For me, the highlight of the trip was Icarus. Some bush bashing was required to get in as you come at the climb from below. I suppose you could ab in, but this was more fun, especially with the goats for company. Icarus starts off fairly straight forward. A couple of awkward moves need to be made to get established on the face. But then the exposure kicks in as well as a couple of spicy moves as you move up a slab on its left edge. Feels proper out there and is so much fun The crux for me was the traverse at the top. You leave your last couple of small wires behind and teeter around the seaward face on a ledge which feels very precarious despite being quite large. It because you are pushed out and the potential for barn dooring off is always there. It also goes on for longer than expected. But what a great finish to a superb climb. A real highlight.

Icarus – HS 4a with the left arete leading to the overhang

Valley of Rocks is a venue I intend to get back to. Lots of low grade routes and a beautiful area. Would be a good day out with the boys. Or get back up here for another 2 dayer with Joe.

Climbing

The not so mighty Warrior

November 27, 2020 dillwat Leave a comment

27th November 2020

Cribba Head

Harder – VS 5a – TR Repeat
Bottleneck – HVS 5a – TR Repeat

Sometimes in winter you get a morning light that just brings everything to life. It enhances the natural beauty of an area and creates a sharp relief on all the elements around you.

So it was on this day. Cold, bright but unlikely to deliver anything special because it had been so damp. However if the best could be made of a day we did it. I tend to dread going to Cribba Head because I know I’ll be in for a beasting. Going to Cribba with Joe just enhances all my fears.

I’m so glad this was a top roping session though. Many months of inaction had atrophied my muscles, so even on the dependable Harder I found everything difficult. Weird how you can start up a climb you’ve done a number of times before (on the lead) and suddenly realise you’ve forgotten how to climb. I made a right fist of it, out of balance, not bridging and clinging onto the weirdest of holds. About as awkward as it could have been.

Which is why climbing Bottleneck was surprisingly less difficult. The first time led this I left skin all over the rock and got myself fully stuck in the …. well… bottleneck. This time it was still tough but I actually climbed it a bit better. Maybe next time it will go ok. But I doubt it.

Finally there was the obligatory play on Boysend Cracks. No strength at the moment but I can see how I could get this on the lead. I just need to be a bit stronger and have jamming gloves on 🙂

Climbing

I feel so weeeak!!!

November 13, 2020 dillwat Leave a comment

14th November 2020

Cribba Head

This was the cry of someone who hasnt climbed for a while and is suddenly asking muscles to do things they just cant remember. The strange thing about this day was the fact I felt like I’d forgotten everything I knew about climbing. No technique, noflexibility, no finger or arm strength, poor footwork.

The list goes on. But by the end of the day it was coming back and it makes me realise how I need to be out regularly on the rock to keep that normal momentum going. I could blame lockdown and injuries, but I think my motivation has been lacking, so a session with Joe, who is climbing brilliantly was just what was needed to remind me why I love to climb.

Oh yeh, and boy do I ache. Thats enough whining though. The day was great fun and it was so good to be back on the rock. Thats it now. Back to it I think. Need to rack up the lieage and start looking at my tick list.

For this day top roped efforts on Harder and Bottleneck were enough for me. Struggled on T/R but led them in the past. Strange how things change.

Lunch View – typical post industrial wasteland!

And as always amazing views and atmosphere. Only to be expected in Cornwall.

Climbing

Right! This time I’m going… no this time… no now…

November 16, 2019 dillwat Leave a comment

16th November 2019

Vicarage Cliff

Pandora – VS 4b – Second
Wellingtons Stand – VS 4b – Lead
Atom Head – E1 5c – Second

Oh how your head plays tricks with you. The ugly head of indecision rears itself and then you’re up and down trying to persuade yourself that the terrifying move you want to make is fine… it wont hurt you. Even if you fall.

Alas, it’s not so simple. Having bottled Wellingtons Stand on my last outing here I had unfinished business. So finding myself trying to make the same tenuous move on two small crimps with a crap foot placement was no different. Except in the end I forced myself up by shear force of will. And lo and behold, it wasn’t that bad. Which is easy to say after you’ve done it without falling off.

So I thought that was going to be my epic for the day, but Joe had other ideas. Atom Head is one of the best climbs I’ve done recently. Tiny holds and foot placements. Run outs, padding, gorse, rusted pegs. You name it, its got it! What a fantastic lead by Joe. There is pro but you need to keep it together to place it and it must feel awfully lonely up there on the lead. What an end to the day. Abbing off as it started to darken gave a sense of having eked out every available bit of light and dryness available.

It was also really good to be out with Joe. Like old times 🙂 Except now he’s miles better than me. But thats an advantage, because he can get me on routes I would dream of leading myself. Cracking and Slabtastic!!

Climbing

Richard Burton eat your heart out!

July 12, 2019 dillwat Leave a comment

Not I might add the actor, but the famous explorer Richard Francis Burton, purported to be one of the first Europeans to cross Africa from West to East. I read a story about how they had to cut their way through miles of jungle; so Tregiffian’s not Africa but today’s outing felt like it for a while.

It was a pretty harsh introduction for Sophie as a new member of the group. Shame I forgot to mention that we would be hacking our way through 100 metres of dense thorn, stingers and brambles. Still, I managed to forget my trousers as well, so shorts it was and the tingling sensation is still there in my legs 6 hours after leaving. I suppose its a right of passage though. Here’s Rule 4…. live with it!

However despite the pain it was an amazing day. Sunshine, perfect rock and great climbs. And finally a plunge in the freezing briny. Tregiffian is a truly magical place. Remote; a hard slog to get to and requiring commitment to jungle bash your way in, but the climbing is very fine.

Sophie and I started on Thea, a nice Severe with a tricky leftwards move at half height. Th rocks not perfect on this route, but the final slab makes it worthwhile. And then on to Acid Test, one of my favourite VS’s. Joe explained that I was doing it all wrong because I just step into the crack and try to walk up it. Precarious, but fun, but there’s nothing for your hands so its a bit of a trust things using the crack to cam your body on.

Our final swim capped off a great day. Still a bit cold, but actually not too bad once you’ve been in for a few minutes. Not a bad turn out for this one. 6 of us with Dave, Piers, Chris, Joe (back from his adventures in Norway), Me and Sophie.

Belay with a view
Me on Acid Test
No explanation required!!
De-rigging after Acid Test
Acid Teast from below
Dave trailblazing
Emerging from the Jungle
Start of Acid Test
I claim this Island…
?

Climbing

If I won the lottery…..

July 24, 2017 dillwat Leave a comment

24th July 2017

Boswednack Cliff

Rough Justice – HVS 5b – Lead

I’ve spent many days hiking in to new locations in Cornwall. You never quite know what you are going to come across. Sometimes venues exceed expectations and other times, when you think somewhere is going to be magical, it falls slightly short.

Boswednack was a complete mystery for me. I’d seen it in the distance and it just looked like another rugged headland. Up close though, it is a beautiful location, surrounded by beaches and coves and with a lovely remote feeling. Dave and I both agreed as we walked out, that its somewhere we’ll keep high on our list for a return visit.

So the walk in starts from ‘The Gurnards Head’ pub, but breaks right down the lane instead of following the PF. Then its across to the first headland and a scramble through high ferns to find the right hand side of the headland looking out to sea. From here, descend past the old mineshaft (be careful cos its deep) and make your way down to sea level traversing left into the main section of cliff.

There are a lot of great looking routes, taking some wicked lines up the face. The rock is a bit unreliable in places, but on the whole this is compensated for by how positive and super sticky it is.

Dave and I went for Rough Justice, a good line but one which is a bit ambiguous in the upper section. You can go left or right. We went right which I think is wrong, but gives you a great hand traverse across a steep wall. The whole climb is steep with good moves and I was really pleased with how I went. Only one section where the pro runs sparse took a while. Otherwise its just a joy.

Tom and Joe did a similar HVS/E1 to the right, one which I intend to have a pop at next time. This is a great place to come for a climb, swim or a bit of fishing. I’m going to visit again very shortly, if only to look at the house I’m going to buy when I win the lottery.