Not I might add the actor, but the famous explorer Richard Francis Burton, purported to be one of the first Europeans to cross Africa from West to East. I read a story about how they had to cut their way through miles of jungle; so Tregiffian’s not Africa but today’s outing felt like it for a while.
Sophie in the Jungle
It was a pretty harsh introduction for Sophie as a new member of the group. Shame I forgot to mention that we would be hacking our way through 100 metres of dense thorn, stingers and brambles. Still, I managed to forget my trousers as well, so shorts it was and the tingling sensation is still there in my legs 6 hours after leaving. I suppose its a right of passage though. Here’s Rule 4…. live with it!
Me on Acid Test
However despite the pain it was an amazing day. Sunshine, perfect rock and great climbs. And finally a plunge in the freezing briny. Tregiffian is a truly magical place. Remote; a hard slog to get to and requiring commitment to jungle bash your way in, but the climbing is very fine.
De-rigging after Acid Test
Sophie and I started on Thea, a nice Severe with a tricky leftwards move at half height. Th rocks not perfect on this route, but the final slab makes it worthwhile. And then on to Acid Test, one of my favourite VS’s. Joe explained that I was doing it all wrong because I just step into the crack and try to walk up it. Precarious, but fun, but there’s nothing for your hands so its a bit of a trust things using the crack to cam your body on.
No explanation required!!
Our final swim capped off a great day. Still a bit cold, but actually not too bad once you’ve been in for a few minutes. Not a bad turn out for this one. 6 of us with Dave, Piers, Chris, Joe (back from his adventures in Norway), Me and Sophie.
Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second
Just incredible
So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.
The boulder cave entrance
So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab
My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch
OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.
Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.
Cooling my feet
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux. Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.
Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack
What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.
The Scillonian cruising by.
The boulder cave entrance
Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab
Chris soloing high up on the main face
Pete goes bold… or does he?
Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian
Waiting for the tide to drop back
Chris getting balanced on Acid Test
Belay ledge on Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak’s second pitch
Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack
Cooling my feet
Dave on the final transition to the awkward finishing crack.
Thea – Severe 4a – Second Acid Test – VS 4c – Lead Prior Claim – Severe 4a – Second
The hardest part about climbing at Tregiffian is getting there. A solid walk in from Boskenna Cross gets you to a low granite wall and a very indistinct path that just disappears into massive stinging nettles and brambles.
Tregiffian in all its glory
A machette would be handy here, but after getting scratched and stung in the cliff jungle you burst out onto a glorious meadow which sits above the crag. There below is Tregiffian, a small amphitheatre of ochre granite. It’s beautiful.
Dave high on Thea
Thea top to bottom
Finding your bearings takes a while, but if you follow the rocky buttress on the right facing out you come to a cave made out of precariously balanced boulders. This leads to the main crag. The swell meant the far side of the crag was wave washed an unaccessable even at low tide, but there were a number of routes close to the cave. The first of which was Thea which Dave set about leading.
Dave on the crux of Thea
Tom just above the crux of Thea
Graded Severe, Thea has a tricky and poorly protected crux. The rock is a bit suspect too in the lower reaches, but the higher you get the better everything becomes, culminating in some brilliant face climbing below the pinnacle. A good climb in my books and a great first Severe lead for Dave.
Tom in the niche of Prior Claim
Tom lead the last climb of the day, Prior Claim, also his first severe, making it a landmark day. This was a complete contrast in technique to Thea. Protection was good throughout, but there were a number of exposed and tricky moves, both low down and near the top.
Dave about to step out on Prior Claim
Riding high on the rounded crest of the ridge, it is spectacularly placed and was agreat climb to finish the day on.
Ian about to start the crack of Acid Test
Looking down from the belay of Acid Test
Sandwiched in between these two was my lead on Acid Test. It is worthy of it’s stars. Innocuous from the ground it proves a lot more trcky when you get up to it. I thought it was a hand traverse, but instead in became an exercise in balance, requiring some contortions to place gear.
Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.
As much as it scared the pants of me at first, I thought it was excellent and I want to do it again – this probably says it all about how much I rate it.
Dave soloing high above Acid Test
The walk back out was long and hard and we were all knackered by time we got to the car (having chased a fox out of the adjacent field). Tregiffian is already marked in my diary for an early return. This time with the full crew and with a smaller swell so we can tackle the whole crag. Oh yes and with a fishing rod!
Dave on the crux of Thea
Dave high on Thea
Dave moving up the top face of Thea
Thea top to bottom
Tom just above the crux of Thea
Dave on Acid Test
Looking down from the belay of Acid Test
Tom finishing off Acid Test
The slightly wet walk back to the gearing up spot
Dave soloing high above Acid Test
Tom in the niche of Prior Claim
Dave about to step out on Prior Claim
Looking across at Acid Test the right to left thin rising crack.
