Little White Jug – V Diff – Lead Flared Nostrils – HS 4b – Lead (rpt)
As you get older I think you are meant to learn from past experiences. So having shredded myself on Flared Nostrils last time following Chris up, I figured I’d do it again, this time whilst leading. Not my best decision.
It looks so innocuous from below. But it pushes you out and you end up needing to jam on sharp crystals. It’s not that pleasant really so why did I do it again. I of course blame Barry who given a choice selected it. Possibly he and Craig regreted this decision as they too bled for the cause.
Craig on the deceptive ‘Flared Nostrils’
It was though another great day out in such a beautiful part of the county. We are blessed to have this on our doorstep, and as yet we are untouched by the crowds elsewhere in the uk.
The not so easy decent route
I think Barry and Craig had a good day. Vessacks West is ideal for novice climbers and is a good place to ‘learn the ropes’. Maybe next time we’ll try something a bit higher and get some exposure involved.
This was always going to be a bit of an ordeal. Sunny weather, but bitterly cold. The Hayloft area seemed a good choice as it catches the sun early and being granite retains a bit of warmth.
We were accompanied by the usual Choughs whizzing around on the upper ledges. They are definitely getting more numerous. It’s a common sight down on West Penwith.
The first pitch of Hayloft is fun in its own right. Straight forward but good for a practice session. Moving straight on to Slanting Crack was not one of my better ideas. My memory played games with me. I seemed to remember positive but small holds leading up to the much more amenable slanting crack. However the opening moves are a bit desperate, especially with cold fingers.
So Ian, Barry and me called it a day, giving in to the cold and heading off. It’s never though a wasted day sat in the sun in such a beautiful location. Maybe we will return shortly for a tour of the north end of Sennen.
Carn Barra Illustrated Man – E2 – T/R Twin Cracks – Severe – Lead
Words you should never utter to a fellow climber, “I havnt really experienced a hard climb”. It is likely to end up messy, as this day did. The choice of Carn Barra was really to give Barry a taste of what hard routes feel like. Its notoriously tough so what better place to get on some routes.
Oh its all happy faces and fun up until you try to climb out!
The central ledge has a number of good E numbers so we thought we’d try that. In hindsight maybe an inescapable ledge with only tough routes to get out on was not the best choice. But we got what we paid for. Illustrious Man is just a joy to climb, but is properly hard. For Barry it was a lesson in how to deploy everything at your disposal just to get upit. He did brilliantly, especially considering the experience he’s had so far. Failing at what I consider to be the crux (the move out of the middle crack system.
Illustrated Man
I made it just. Taught me a lesson in that I’m not where I have been in terms of fitness, as I climbed this clean and fairly well when I was last here with Chris. I did however remember to hang on, something that my old friend Bart (RIP) said I was particularly good at, even if he didnt rate my climbing abilities… haha
In the end Barry climbed out on Dialectic, no mean feat on its own and so the beasting ended and we retired to have a go at Twin Cracks on the upper buttress. I’s only ever climbed pitch 1. Turns out Pitch 2 is the difficult one. Steep and with few rests. PLace gear and keep climbing. Its also brilliantly exposed as you move out above the whole of Carn Barra.
Looking down Twin Cracks
What a day. We had it all. And to top it all off Barry spotted dolphins. And so to the long slog out past the wolfpack which continues to make me smile.
I last climbed Pegasus in March 2007, 16 years ago. And prior to that and unrecorded in my logbook, I climbed it with Tony H and Bart on what was probably the most adventurous climb I had ever done up to that point.
So returning with Barry, who would be in the same stage of his climbing initiation as I was, was very apt. A bitterly cold day, we managed to find a spot of warmth and sunshine, at least for part of the day. Having checked out Panda buttress and declined, the tide was low enough and the swell small enough to get on Pegasus.
I always find the first pitch more difficult that the technical grade suggests. I think its because it is nearly always a bit greasy and wet. It makes the move out of the top of the groove just that bit insecure. But I did remember the ‘secret’ hold, which sorted me in the end after I’d told myself off for dithering.
From then on it was plain sailing. The slab pitch didn’t disappoint. Its one of the best pitches at its grade anywhere imo. Amazing exposure, good holds and just generally all around fun. The hard move is just that. Harder than anything else on the climb. Many give it 4c and I wouldn’t argue with that. I think there is an easier and more difficult way to tackle it. However one feels a lot bolder than the other. Barry did a fine job of getting through it (the bold way) and it wrapped up a fantastic adventure.
Smug we were having completed one of Cornwall’s more iconic routes. And we finished in sunshine. Luck was with us on this day.
Wavemaster – Diff – Lead New Bionicle – VS 5a – Lead
I’ve been to Penberth so often its like my second home climbingwise. So it was strange to suddenly not know how to get to the crag. Clearly some coastpath shenanigans have been undertaken, meaning now it runs a bit higher up and the usual descent onto the slabs is bypassed. I think it is to preserve the delicate area just above the rocky platform so its fair enough. But the fact it is quite overgrown gives an indication of how long its been since we were there.
Its a V Diff… or an E1… cant quite remember
Forgetting the guidebook was a first for me. Spending too much time on UKC is a clear cause. Read the route reviews and forget to research where they actually are 🙂 . That wont happen again.
So Wavemaster is a gripfest of a climb. Very soloable, but good as a lead route. The rock is purpose made to be grabbed hold of, course, grainy and positive and was a good opener for the day.
Clueless!
New Bionicle was slightly different. Its very deceptive from below. The clear cracklines are actually shallower than expected, particularly on the right side of the upper slab. Turns out the upper slab holds two routes. The left is a HS and the right a VS, a bit contrived to separate the two, but if you do the right is delicate with few out and out holds and more about your feet.
Climbing on a single rope meant I had to pick a crack. I chose right because I ghought it might be more protectable. Jury is out on that one. The final move to the apex jug is ‘adventurous’ ( that one was for Barry). In the wet the whole affair feels a bit slippy but still great climbing. I was very please to see it through, as was Barry, who stepped up quite a bit on this one, into a land of side pulls, chicken heads and small edges.
Barry on New Bionicle
Meanwhile Chris and Tom were having fun on the main HS which runs up the centre. Always challenging and probably more so given the conditions. The barnacle encrusted lower section is a bit nasty judging by the language coming from Tom. Main thing is we beat the Tide so no wet feet today.
We’re going up there???
The weather and light made further routes seem a chore so we headed off. Two more climbs bagged at one of my favorite venues. We’ll be back for barbeques and swims in the summer no doubt. Might even try the E1 (Thirty Something’) again haha. Fell off it last time.
What a filthy month this November has been. Good job I saved the decorating for now as there has been sod all opportunity toi get out on the rock. Except of course for today, during which Barry and me managed to pluck the only dry spell for weeks.
However the crag was dripping. The Devils Rock area was in no condition to climb at all. But The Pinnacle was ok. As a stand alone buttress it doesnt suffer from seepage as much as the other buttresses. I sort of got a bit mixed up with the routes. I actually thought we were doing Pinnacle Buttress a V Diff, but it turns out we were on Reverse Cleft a Severe.
It didnt matter as Barry and me had a great time on the route. A fairly straight forward first pitch, leads into a much steeper and more technical second pitch. Being damp added a bit more jeopardy and the jamming section was a bit grim, having to trust greasy cracks. I found it a tough lead for Severe in the conditions. Still, it honed technique. Barry, still very much learning the ropes so to speak, did excellently. The work on the indoor walls paying immediate dividends.
We walked out up the gulley between Needle and Raven Buttresses, probably the crux of the day, with slimy boulders and no grip. Finishing at the top of the Tor capped a great day out. The rain had held off all day and only came in as we reached the car. A very satisfying moment.
Bounce – HVS 5a – T/R Worry – E2 5c – T/R Eric’s Route – Severe 4a – Lead
We have all been to that place in climbing, when your body stops behaving and wont do what you want it to. It was Barry’s turn to find the point where he burns out completely occurred today. Multiple attempts on a burly HVS resulted in little left for our final Severe.
Looking across the boulder field of St Loy
I could see the energy draining from him as he gradually progressed up the route and his change in facial expression. To Barry’s credit he never gave up, meaning he topped out with arms of the same texture as solid steel. Lactic Acid I think does this to you.
Barry on Eric’s Route
Still, as days out climbing go this was a good one. Tater Du is always fun to visit, but its also a real effort. The walk in through St Loy and across Boscowen Headland is second to none however for its beauty. And Tater Du always reminds me of a painting more than a cliff.
And there were dolphins!
The reason for all the muscle ache was that we dropped down to the seaward craglets. If I am honest, I was not so impressed with this area. It pales in comparison to TD proper. It is really a series of boulder problems, all be it a bit highball in places. But they do present some tough climbing, but with little gear for the most part.
Tony topping out on Eric’s Route
Erics route was much nicer, with good moves and lots of exposure at the top. A thoroughly good way to finish the day.
Gearing up platform with a view
I do like these team days out. The company is always great and it has more of a social feel to it. It was also really good to see Tony out again after a gap, and climbing really well. It bodes well for future trips. Bring on the next one.
Bosigran Ledge Climb – Hard V Diff – Lead Alison Rib – Diff – Lead
Bosigran sort of acts like a satellite dish with the sun out. It seems to capture every ray that comes through. Add the heat radiating off the granite and it gets pretty warm.
Barry and me found this out the hard way. Even the strong breeze couldn’t make it through, so both climbs were done in the blazing sun. But having said that, they were both great fun. Its been 18 years since I last climbed Ledge Climb with Chris. 18 Years! And before that I’d done it with Bart, although I dont have a record of the date we did it.
I’d forgotten what a superb climb Ledge Climb is. You get straight into some steep ground on the first pitch (no push-over). A meandering second pitch takes you into the heart of Bosi. And then the ‘Coup de Gras’. A chimney followed by the famous ‘ledge’ or ramp. So much exposure combined with great climbing. Its a joyous climb. One to do if you need cheering up because its guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
For Barry, it was a steep learning curve. (Welcome to MagikRock Barry). His first lead follow was Alison Rib and then straight into multi-pitch. No problem with the climbing and a good head for heights. Barry is a natural. I can see many more adventures ahead.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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