Bounce – HVS 5a – T/R Worry – E2 5c – T/R Eric’s Route – Severe 4a – Lead
We have all been to that place in climbing, when your body stops behaving and wont do what you want it to. It was Barry’s turn to find the point where he burns out completely occurred today. Multiple attempts on a burly HVS resulted in little left for our final Severe.
Looking across the boulder field of St Loy
I could see the energy draining from him as he gradually progressed up the route and his change in facial expression. To Barry’s credit he never gave up, meaning he topped out with arms of the same texture as solid steel. Lactic Acid I think does this to you.
Barry on Eric’s Route
Still, as days out climbing go this was a good one. Tater Du is always fun to visit, but its also a real effort. The walk in through St Loy and across Boscowen Headland is second to none however for its beauty. And Tater Du always reminds me of a painting more than a cliff.
And there were dolphins!
The reason for all the muscle ache was that we dropped down to the seaward craglets. If I am honest, I was not so impressed with this area. It pales in comparison to TD proper. It is really a series of boulder problems, all be it a bit highball in places. But they do present some tough climbing, but with little gear for the most part.
Tony topping out on Eric’s Route
Erics route was much nicer, with good moves and lots of exposure at the top. A thoroughly good way to finish the day.
Gearing up platform with a view
I do like these team days out. The company is always great and it has more of a social feel to it. It was also really good to see Tony out again after a gap, and climbing really well. It bodes well for future trips. Bring on the next one.
Willie’s Way – HVS 5a – Alt Lead Flake Wall – VS 4c – Alt Lead
There are times when you wonder how your body and your mind get along. The body is willing, but the mind says ‘No!’. It doesnt matter how hard you try, it is sometimes very difficult to conquer this.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Poor Dave had to watch me going through a mental epic on the overhang of Willie’s Way. I knew I could do it. I felt strong, but my head had no intentions of giving in easily.
And so I went up and went back down again numerous times before Dave gave some sound advice and said to come back down, compose myself and rest, and try again. And so on about the 7th attempt I just went for it and surprise, I made it. It was good to know that Dave also found it hard, so I had at least some justification for my hesitancy. Many thanks to Dave for being so patient and positive.
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
We went to Tater Du because of the wind conditions and it turned out to be a good call. Sun for most of the day and good shelter. Willie’s Way has been on my ‘To do’ list for ages. Ever since I went to Tater Du with Bart and did Bus Route the adjacent V Diff. All three pitches are worthwhile with a rising degree of difficulty. The main event is the short V Chimney and capping overhang.
These are big moves on relatively big holds, but you are effectively on a 90 degree slope for the overhang. It is a case of finding the right sequence because once you commit (eventually 🙂 ) there’s no going back. But the pumpyness is short lived and the pro good. The rock looks suspect, but is solid and seems reliable. Great route and maybe I’ll do it again just to prove to myself I can get over that fear factor.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Tom and Joe meanwhile were on their own epic Lamorna Wall. A fantastic looking E2 going up through the middle of the main wall. By all accounts its all about the move through the overhang which looked nails.
Joe moving up the face
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
But the situations looked incredible. Of course this was just a prelude to Tom finding a nasty chimney to do in Fat Panda! How come Tom likes chimneys so much – I dont see the attraction lol . By all accounts this one was sparcely protected too.
Our second climb (if we were anywhere near on the right route) was Flake Wall. The first pitch parallels WW but hugging the arete with a final bold pull onto the big ledge. The guide book description says to cross the blocky overhang, so thats what Dave did. Whether it was the right overhang I have no idea, but Dave set off and encountered his own epic.
Dave on the traverse on Flake Wall
You’d think it was a lot easier than tackling the overhang direct, but the reality is that its just as committing. Same initial gear but then a wild swing out left and some awkward foot placements on the crumbling ‘flake wall’. Then its up andover. Less steep, but still lots of exposure.
Me finishing Flake Wall
So two great routes and Dave and I were both buzzing. Add to this one of the most beautiful locations in Cornwall and you have an ‘epic’ day.
the pro in the ‘relatively’ secure chimney/overhang
Tom and Joe high on Lamorna Wall
Joe moving up the face
I could hang here for days.
Joe going for the move over the overhang on Lamorna Wall.
Beauty. The scenery that is…
The ab in. You cant see the rock pool cleverly placed at the bottom.
Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead
It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment for the day.
Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.
Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.
PI of Martell Slab
Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.
E1 top pitch of Martell Slab
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.
Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary
Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.
Up there???
I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.
I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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