Damned Lamornians!

5th September 2013

Tater Du

Martell Slab – VS 4c/E1 5a – Alt Lead
Pericles – HVS 5a – Lead

It was nice to be back climbing with Joe again after what has been a fairly long break. Martell Slab provided the stunning entertainment  for the day.

Martell Slab is one of those climbs you always promise yourself, but never get around to doing. Probably because Tater Du is not the easiest crag in the world to get access to. It’s also not helped by the exorbitant charges levied at Lamorna Car Park. £7.00!!! £7.00 for gods sake….. The alternative is a longer walk in from Boskenna Cross. Next time this is what I will be doing cos its the last penny I put in their grubby, middle class, money grabbing hands.

Rant over and back to the important stuff. Martell Slab is great technical climbing with some tricky moves and so so gear on the first pitch. Finding the start isnt easy, but trend right of the slab and take the groove before moving out onto the slab proper. The move onto the slab is memorable and the remainder of P1 provides some nice technical climbing.

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PI of Martell Slab

Joe was straight onto the E1 direct finish for P2. It keeps going straight up, through the groove. Well protected but strenuous it is pretty steep but classy climbing. The huge nest you pass full of bones and bits of dead things is a little un nerving though. Joe made easy work of this to cap off what was a really good climb.

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E1 top pitch of Martell Slab

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on their way up Crows Nest Ordinary, a route Joe and I did many years back. The top pitch of this one is always a test.

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Nico coming onto the steep finishing face of Crows Nest Ordinary

Lichen covered and very steep it is quite daunting as Tom found out. It’s also very photogenic, with Joe and myself providing the audience for Toms epic.

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Up there???

I had always wanted to do Pericles, a good looking route on Knights Pillar. It turned out to be harder than it looks, with fiddly gear and small crimpy holds. By time I finished my arms were screaming. I could tell I hadnt been out for a while.

I always enjoy going to Tater Du. It is a beautiful location and great place to climb with your mates. Makes you realise why we all love climbing in Cornwall so much.

 

 

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