Tag Archives: Rosemergy Towers

Falling on hard times

5th July 2014

Rosemergy Towers

NC Madness – VS 4c – Lead
Go Shorty – E2 5c – Second (dnf)
Hard Times – E1 5c – Lead (dogged)
Boulder Problem – HVS 5b – Second

Where do you go when the BMC meet is on and most venues will have climbers galore. Rosemergy seemed a good bet although we were joined by another couple for a change.




3rd March 2012

Rosemergy Towers
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Top Rope
Go Shorty – E2  5C – Top Rope

This was a bit of a team outing and a chance to go through a few of the basics of setting up a belay and abseiling. Rosemergy was deserted as it often is, so we had carte blanche to set up a couple of top ropes on the main face and Go Shorty, the tough E2 on the right.

Team Rosemergy

Flash Back is a climb in its own right, with a chimney start and then slab and crack climbing up the centre of the central slab. However it also provides a lead into a number of other variations on the arete and right hand slab. The biggest advantage of this is that it gave everyone a chance to climb on a bit of everything and practice their technique’s.

Pete coming out of the chimney - Flash Back

Dave, high on Flash Back

Now ‘Go Shorty’ was a different proposition. From down slope it looks almost as though it is about a 45 degree angle, but once on it you realise this is just your eyesight playing tricks. This gave a chance to test out just how well we were all coming along after a winter of indoor climbing. As it happens, not badly at all…

Tony working hard - Go Shorty

It is a climb with two crux sections, but is tricky right through with a succession of 5b moves leading to a final move for the top which is given 5c but I think is probably harder. Either that or my fingers are very weak.

Dave working through the perplexing lower moves - Go Shorty

Crimping on the top move - Go Shorty

It's not much, but its all there is.. - Go Shorty

Best of all it gave everyone a taste of what hard outdoor climbing is like and everyone duly donated blood to the cause. The granite here is very crystaline and some bits are like razor blades. Pete and Tom particularly felt generous on this day and all we needed was St Johns Ambulance here to complete the process.

Chilling between climbs

We all spent time falling off, but maybe that’s the advantage of spending time on a hard climb. It gives you an idea of where you are and what you need to improve. By the end of the day we were all knackered, but how lucky were we! Sunshine all day, a bit blowy, but ultimately a perfect day out on the rock.

If at first you don’t succeed…try, try at least 6 times!!

Rosemergy Towers
2nd April 2011

Flash Back – Severe 4a – Second
Go Shorty – E2 5c – Tope Rope

In keeping with riding my weather luck, our trip to Rosemergy turned out to be stunning. Mostly sunny and fairly sheltered from a stiff South Westerly it was a good place to be climbing.


Dominic and Sam joined Chris and myself for an entertaining day top roping and leading. For Sam this was her very first day climbing… indoor or outdoor! A short sharp introduction then, because none of the climbs at Rosemergy are easy for novices. Its easy to forget how daunting a first session can be and to be put onto an open, exposed buttress and then be expected to climb would tax most people. That said, Sam did amazingly well climbing both of the Severe’s we tackled in the morning. For someone who has not climbed she showed great technique and a lot of courage.


For Dominic this was a refresher day, to get him back into climbing and remind him how much fun it is. After a rusty start Dominic started remembering his technique. We both had flashes of “I should be able to do that…” but all in all it was a good return, culminating in a brilliant attempt at ‘Go Shorty’ the E2.


Considering the jump in grade this brought out the best in all three of us. Its really a series of long gaps between breaks in the rock. Employing various techniques we all approached in differently. Underclings were the order for the day for me, allowing me to extend up to each of the breaks. Chris made a brilliant effort, cleaning the climb on his first attempt. His first E2, and not an easy one either (if there is such a thing as an easy E2).


I on the other hand could not get the top move wired. It became one of thos moments where you think that if you repeat the same thing time and again eventually you’ll wear the problem down. In this case it didnt work and 6 attempts later I didnt seem to be getting any closer. A final small quartz crystal allowed me to hang on and make the step up, but to be fair I would like to return with a clear head and try to do it properly. Still, really entertaining and the scars on my wrists testify to some real effort.


Chris led Flash Back earlier, which as I rember has some great moves for a Severe. I would deffinitely give it stars on UKC.

Of course we spent an appropriate amount of time reminding ourselves how lucky we are to have this on our doorstep. All day we didnt see anyone else, beyond a passing walker. It sgreat to know that even now you can find remoteness in the UK, even if its only 100 metres from the coast road.


On the not often beaten track

28th July 2010
Rosemergy Towers

Finger Winch – VS 5a – Lead
Flash Back – Severe 4a – Lead
East Tower Arete – Diff – Lead

Considering its proximity to the coast road, Rosemergy Towers gives you a sense of being in the wilderness. Within minutes of dropping down the track to the Coast Path you feel remote and from the state of the access trail it is a not often climbed venue.

For me and Pete it was our first venture to this area. Viewing the crag from across the valley, we were not aware of the variety of climbing that was going to be available. Once down at the crag it gradually reveals its secrets as you skirt the southern face.

We picked a severe to start on and it proved to be a challenge at the grade. Pleanty of pro except on the crux crack, high on the climb. This proved tricky, but added a level of excitment I was not prepared for. Saying that, it woke me up and prepared me for Finger Winch and different proposition entirely.

I enjoyed this climb, even if it did force an early retreat for me to gather my strength and go go again. Its name does what it says. Small but positive holds enable you to pull up into a series of rounded buttresses. Very rewarding. We finished up the Arete due to dwindling levels of energy and tiredness and made our way to the tea rooms. I can recommend these to all, especially if you catch them like us in the sun and evening warmth.

We’ll go back to the Towers. There is an HVS and E1 which I would like to have a crack at.