Little White Jug – V Diff – Lead Flared Nostrils – HS 4b – Lead (rpt)
As you get older I think you are meant to learn from past experiences. So having shredded myself on Flared Nostrils last time following Chris up, I figured I’d do it again, this time whilst leading. Not my best decision.
It looks so innocuous from below. But it pushes you out and you end up needing to jam on sharp crystals. It’s not that pleasant really so why did I do it again. I of course blame Barry who given a choice selected it. Possibly he and Craig regreted this decision as they too bled for the cause.
Craig on the deceptive ‘Flared Nostrils’
It was though another great day out in such a beautiful part of the county. We are blessed to have this on our doorstep, and as yet we are untouched by the crowds elsewhere in the uk.
The not so easy decent route
I think Barry and Craig had a good day. Vessacks West is ideal for novice climbers and is a good place to ‘learn the ropes’. Maybe next time we’ll try something a bit higher and get some exposure involved.
So Vessacks West is a good place for grabbing a load of ticks (albeit in mainly lower grades). But despite their apparent straightforwardness, these felt like good routes. Excellent positive granite and a great setting made for a really enjoyable day.
Sometimes I feel we get sucked into the harder is better scenarios. I would agree that completing a hard route comes with a lot of satisfaction and a great sense of achievement. But you can get lost in this, to the point where you ignore the amazing feeling of just climbing with no fear and the ability to take in your surroundings fully.
Chris on High Flyer
Chris and I had so much fun this day. I want more occasions like this, where lunch is just as important as the climbs. The crag is quite short, so you can literally be up and down in no time at all. Then its on to the neighbour. The photos speak for themselves.
Having missed out last year through a combination of bad time management and poor weather, it was good to get our annual ‘New Years on the Ridge’ going again.
With a tentative theme of ‘Pattern Disruptive Material’ (Camo to you and me) we set of for what was to be a great day on Commando Ridge. We lucked the weather with sunshine for most of a chilly but bearable day.
Two new recruits in Chris D and Ian T joined us with a few of the regulars missing because of various ageing complaints. We did have Chris S and his new pet Cougar. Not that we could see Mike with his stunning cat like camouflage. We also managed the crossing to the normal start, with no ‘Dave’ factor to take into account.
Being a chilly day it was noticeable that hanging around on the belays was tough work. In hindsight, I probably should have let Chris and Mike lead off as they would have been faster, but having to share a rack meant we needed to stay together anyway, so I’m not sure it would have made too much difference.
It was good to actually be out on the rock again. The Ridge is never really hard, but you do need to stay focused. Chris and Ian were loving it and it helped that the light was amazing, lighting up the main face and bringing out all the colours.
Hopefully next year will see an even larger team event. We may have to have start times haha.
Boswednack Cliff No Justice – V Diff – Second Groovy Justice – Severe 4a – Second
Having your own private beach would be amazing. Having two private beaches would be next level. If I win the Euromillions I might just have this. Or at least I’ll know where I can get it.
Boswednack is a little bit more remote than many venues we visit. Takes about 35-40 mins to walk in. Requires an abseil to remove the ball-ache of a slippery downclimb and is pretty intimidating as a crag. It also doesnt get the sun until much later in the day, so if shady climbing is your thing, fill your boots.
I really like it here. The climbs feel different from those of many crags. Greenstone cliffs do that. The rock as a whole is ok, but you have to be prepared for loose stuff and alter your climbing to suit this.
Chris eyeing up the start of Groovy Justice
Chris’s opener on Groovy Justice was quite a challenge. The bomber gear placement is just out of reach, so you need to commit before you can place it. A good one for Chris to get his head back in the right place for leading. The climb is also a little off kilter, but it is a fun adventure up the right side of the crag.
Dave about to start the final headwall of No Justice
Dave went for the obvious ramp of No Justice. Again a tough opening which needs commitment. Seems to be a theme here. Once on the main arete/ramp the climbing is steady, although it has a sting in its tail which includes large chunks of loose rock. Again a good lead by Dave and another step up. The team is excelling!
The Main Face area
I had to make an alteration to my log book. I had originally added Rough Justice HVS 5b from my only previous visit. Turns out I had actually climbed Last Minute Reprieve E1 5c. So a bonus to the grade. It does though mean I have to go back an do Rough Justice properly. Does look good though.
The walk out included a swim in the now flooded beach, but was still great and finally capped off with a pint at the Gurnards Head. All in all a very good day.
Should’ve gone to specsavers – VS 4b – Alt Lead Ghan Fishing – V Diff – Second The Womb Tomb – V Diff – Second Pilot’s Song – VS 4c – Lead
Herding frog’s! Our Via Ferrata team is proving a bit tricky to co-ordinate atm. This was meant to be a test run for the camping with a bit of climbing thrown in. In the end it was really a climbing trip which suits me and turned out to be great fun.
Friday was a return to Predannack. I was determined to find out where the bloody Intermediate area was. Turns out it was staring me in the face all along. The guidebook description is fairy poor really. It references a Zawn, but in truth it’s just the face at the bottom of the ramp in beginners area. Add to that, the fact the route descriptions are pretty sketchy as well, accounts for why there have been so few recorded ascents here. If I’m honest though, sometimes having to work hard to find a climb is all part of the fun of exploring a crag. I sometimes you come across a gem by accident as a result.
Should’ve gone to Specsavers is an ok route, but really the entire climb boils down to breaking through the overhang. This is exciting and exposed, but is over very quickly once you commit. It took me a while to pluck up courage to go, but once you do its fine. Dave and Chris came through with out any dawdling. The route is a bit ‘unsatisfying’, but the other two on this face look quite tasty as well, so I’ll give these a go next time.
A fairly long hike over to Tasmania Zawn let us on Gawn Fishing, a climb I’ve done before but one which is always enjoyable. Described as an adventurous V Diff like a mountain route it runs diagonally across the wall, finishing up a shute of sorts. I know Dave loved it, especially as he got a chance to lead. It was a good finish to the day, before retiring to Henry’s Campsite.
And that is a strange, eclectic place. A warren of hedges, plants and drives which makes up what amounts to a secret garden. It is a bit ‘hippy’ but really enjoable. I would recommend it to anyone camping down that way.
Day 2 was Pen Olver, with Mike joining me and Chris. It was a trip down memory lane in a way. Been a while since I was here, and I’ve done a fair few of the routes. But I got a chance to bag a new one. One that I’m surprised I’d not done, because it is the obvious line up the pinnacle. Pilots song is reasonably straight forward for a VS with the crux being well protected and obvious. Its getting off that can be fluttery. Especially if you are the last to downclimb with no rope. Just take it steady and watch your feet.
Of course we had to do Womb Tomb for Mike’s benefit. What a bizarre but fun climb. Dieting helps in getting to the start. From there its head up into the gloom and be prepared to twist a bit. Climbing gives us so many moments of fun and entertainment. When you come across a route like this, it will send you away with the biggest smile on your face. One of those routes you never forget. Unless you’re Chris of course.
Gigging – Severe 4a – Lead Long Time No Sea – V Diff – Lead
Well it was a good choice of crag for the weather, but a poor one with regard to tide times. Our second look at Lighthouse Cliffs was slightly better than our first when the swell was pumping through. Having said that, me and Dave still managed to get wet. Turns out our belay ledge wasnt high enough above the pushing swell!
We now have a pretty good idea of the layout of the crag. Once you have your bearings it all falls together. Which also describes some of the rock quality. In the lower sections it tends to be a bit sounder, but as you get higher it degrades.
Gigging was definitely in this category. We belayed on a small but higher ledge because of the swell and tide. This meant traversing across onto the main wall which was ok, but the more you progressed the crumblier things got. It gets a star in the guide, but I dont think it really warrants one. Its not particularly memorable. Although watching Dave get hit by a set wave was quite memorable.
We’ve definitely earmarked a number fo routes we want to get on, so I’m certain we’ll be back shortly. Next time at low tide with no swell though.
Bitter End – V Diff – Lead Kari – V Diff – Alt Lead Longships Ridge – Diff – Second
What a great day out on the Cornish sea cliffs. I’d not climbed on the Terrace at Carn Boel for 13 years. I’d forgotten what it was like and the previous route I’d done ‘Kari’ was lost in the mists of time, although I was to get a quick reminder as I arrived on the belay ledge after pitch 1.
The Terrace Wall.
So, lots of sunshine and great climbing, equals loads of fun. Every route was excellent. Bitter End was absorbing all the way through, with a few tricky moves, a very hollow flake and a surprising top slab full of holds. The top slab looks awful from below, but is actually great fun.
The Top of Bitter End with a happy crew
Kari has a burly overhang which is quite intimidating, especially for Chris on the lead. But the holds are there, if not obvious at first glance. The top ramp is memorable. It doesn’t look difficult, but the whole affair is off camber and pushes you out into some exciting territory.
Dave on the top wall of Bitter End
And finally Dave’s lead on Longships Ridge was superb. For a Diff this offers great climbing in an exposed position. Definitely a climb that should be on a V Diff leaders tick list.
Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead Mambo Slab – V Diff – Lead
Climbing as a foursome, with one leader is always going to lead to a considerable amount of faff. The art of using 3 ropes isn’t easy either. On a single pitch you can get away with it. On a multi pitch with a snug belay… well to describe it as carnage would be accurate.
Tony below the impressive corner of Central Groove
For Tony, it was a return after a long absence. He is pretty much a natural climber though, due to his tree-surgery work. However to plunge him into a multi pitch was quite an introduction.
Tony on Central Groove
Mambo Slab is nothing exceptional. It has a tricky lower section because of polish, but overall fits the grade. It was why I thought Central Groove would be a good call. Follow average with amazing. And it duly delivered. But with a bit of a sting. Rigging a belay to accommodate 4 people was tough and despite careful planning, everything went out the window at the first possible moment. This led to coils of rope everywhere, kit scattered between all of us and a failed attempt for an orderly departure onto the second pitch.
Dave nonchalantly finishes laybacking the final corner of the second pitch of Central Groove.
Still, it was fun and by time we ended (with a very late lunch at 4.30) everyone was smiling, and also a lot more familiar with each other.
The sloping ledge climb – V Diff – Lead The Cracks – Severe 4a – Lead The Little Mermaid – Severe 4b – Lead
Its not often that we go to a completely new venue, Why I’ve overlooked Wicca Pillar in the past I dont know, but its a really beautiful area. Surrounded by ancient bronze age field systems and on a not so travelled part of the coast it has quite a remote feeling. The walk in from Wicca Farm (bargain £2.00 parking) is lovely down lanes and tracks full of spring flowers and birdsong.
Stunning location as usual
It was Tom, Dave and me today. Looking for some relatively easy climbing as Dave continues his rehabilitation and tests his body on what is and is not possible. To be fair it suits me, as I am still very much in ‘post op’ recovery so gradually easing my way back into things.
The Pillar is basically a volcanic plug, sticking out from the base of the cliff. Accessible even at high tide, if there is no swell. Be warned though, any swell and the spray is likely to get you wet. Queue Dave who took another soaking. Seems to be a habit at the moment.
The Pillar. Note the sling on the left which we used as a final abseil
The rock is pretty crystalline and definitely needs care when you pull on it. The higher you go the more fragile it gets. There is also a surprising dearth of protection. For V Diff’s and Severe’s you would expect a lot more. But the climbing itself is straight forward. Getting off again is not as straight forward as the guidebook suggests. We rigged a temp abseil so we could go up and down, but the final climb meant throwing an old sling around a spike and leaving it there. I think we could of done the downclimb of the southern end of the pillar, but sea spray made it a bit slippy so we took the easy option.
Me on The sloping ledge climb
The gully containing The Little Mermaid is a good option when waves are spraying the main pillar. The rock on the flat topped ridge is even more unsound, but its sheltered and makes for a continuation of the day. The latter climb is given 4b purely for the opening moves. Its then all over. Again protected by micro’s which seem a bit extreme for a Severe.
Dave on The Cracks (Severe 4a)
The best of the routes I did was the V Diff in fact. Bold to start, but interesting technical moves. This is a good location for when you just want to rock up and get some easier routes done. Once again, Dave paid for past indiscretions with another soaking. You could say this is Karma. The sound of a raging sea around us definitely added to the atmosphere. Once a again a great day out with good mates.
Zig Zag – V Diff – Second Aramis – VS 4c – Lead (Dogd) Bridal Piton Slab – Diff – Second
The climb to Haytor
Haytor always brings its fair share of strain and adrenaline. There’s something about the place that catches me out every time I go. Slopers, rounded horizontal pancakes, deep jams and sometimes tenuous gear makes for an exciting day out. It is ssooo different from West Penwith and maybe thats why we always think the grades are hard. Mind you people say that about West Penwith as well, so maybe its a South West thing.
Chris on Zig Zag
Parking in the lower car park (cos its free) Haytor stands proud and certainly gets your calves and heart warmed up in the approach. It was meant to be calm and sunny conditions, but what we got was blustery and cold with the sun in and out all day. It didnt deter us though so Chris, Tom and I warmed up on Zig Zag.
Heading for the crux on Aramis
There you go, that was straight forward. A bit of effort on the overlap but otherwise alright. Whats all this nonsense about hard grades. So I picked out my usual V Diff to start on as well. Except of course my recent shenanigans with interpreting the guide book kicked in and I plopped myself on a VS mistakenly.
Aramis
I even knew it would be hard. Both Tom and Chris kept saying it didnt look VD Diff. On my third attempt to get through the crux I was kind of agreeing with them. What a beast Aramis is for someone who cant climb chimneys and who’s shit at cracks (even with my new Ocun crack gloves). Perversely I really enjoyed it. Shoulders pumped to buggery and energy levels drained I finally made the crux, a sort of contorted reverse hand layback move… my own invention methinks. And then carried on through to the end. One sit in the harness on my main attempt so not clean by any means, but fun.
Tom on Bridal Piton Slab
The whole climb is a combination of hand jams, arm bars and smearing with your feet. One I’ll try again on my next visit. Low Man proved too cold in the end so we abandoned this as an idea and settled for an easy Diff on the north face. Now I remember leading this back in the day with Bart and Tony H. Why they put me on this one I don’t know because its fucking scary. As Chris found out as he led it in Approach shoes. Good effort as far as I’m concerned. Slippy, with only side pulls and dodgy gear its a Diff to remember. We all broke right at about the mid point. Finishing direct pushes this route into silly territory. I did notice that a chicked head which I distinctly remember from my first ascent was no longer there which could account for why if feels so bold near the top now.
Three dudes on a ledge
That aside, the descent is just as harrowing. A mossy gully of certain death. Thank you to whoever left the tat to ab off. You are a saviour.
Toms surprise at the end of a great day was a bottle of Leffe each, so that we could mull over the ridiculousness of the grades and how much fun we had despite this. Even the Dartmoor Ranger and his guardians couldn’t alter this as they quized us on whether we were going to camp overnight. Good on them for keeping an eye on the moor.
Why it never rains on a Friday!
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