Climbing

What a difference a day…. 14years makes

Leave a comment

11th August 2026

Carn Barra

Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)

So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.

Looking down the line of Axis

Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.

Chris D on Axis

Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.

We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.

I’m sure that’s a jam

This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.

Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.

Climbing

Cracking good fun

Leave a comment

10th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Supernatural – VS 4c – Lead

Some climbs were created to put a smile on your face and make you very content with life. Obviously this sometimes comes after you’ve been through the whole gambit of emotions…. fear, relief, uncertainty, bravado… beforehand

Hunting out the stakes. Make sure to use both of them.

Supernatural can do that. It is truly an adventure. Finding it can be tricky, despite the fact it is reasonably close to the car park; getting to the starting belay ledge is a mission in its own right; and then launching up 50m of amazing crack climbing (without running out of appropriately sized gear) to a loose finish.

Moving up from the belay

Dropping over the edge on the ab rope feels like leaving the world behind. Mike, on only his second visit to Gowla was loving it. After what had been a few years away from climbing, the two of us are racking up some memorable routes. This one though is in a different league.

Stood on the belay ledge

Beta – Some advice for the route. It takes a lot of medium sized gear. By that I mean Camelot Size 1 or larger (the red one) and medium Hex’s are useful. It is longer than you might expect. Also we flaked our twin ropes into a rope bag before descending and hung it of the ab rope once we got down there. This keeps everything a bit more tidy. And finally, watch the belay station at the top. Anything you knock off heads down straight towards your second.

It is steep

As far as the climbing goes, it’s amazing. I’m sure it felt harder than the first time I climbed it, but I am a few years older now. The crux was tricky, but that could be because I didnt sort my feet out very well. Mike did fantasticaly well and didnt seem overawed bythe route at all. In fact he had ‘the smile’ on when he hit the top.

A long single pitch route

What a buzz! And as usual we were accompanied by an amazing sunset to finish off with. What a year this is turning out to be.

For me, this was a bit of affirmation that I can still climb at VS with reasonable comfort. My hip is causing me to adapt my climbing style and technique regularly to avoid over bridging or high steps. Mind you it’s amazing what adrenalin will do for you at certain moments haha.

Climbing

Slightly Touched

Leave a comment

5th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

A great venue to pick after you’ve had a hard workout on your quads is Carn Gowla…. not. Despite knowing that walking down to and out of most of the crags on Gowla equals pain, Mike and I decided that this was cliff for us. There’s nothing like that end of session slog back up to the coast path to make you reflect of life choices.

Looking across to C Buttress

That said, I couldnt resist returning to this little gem of a climb on Indian Buttress. Easy to get to (for Gowla) and amazing positions at a really amenable grade. I missed out the bottom part of the climb up the arete because of the sea state, but to be fair it is the top wall that is the money shot.

Loads of positive holds and foot placements, grippy fresh rock and pleasant belays adds up to great climbing. It’s the gear that probably justifies the grade, although this is good if you take your time to find it. I’ve done a lot harder VS’s but few that are in such an awesome postion with maginificent exposure. The waves and light made for a great addition to the whole feeling on this evening. I could tell by Mikes smile that he was loving it.

Fantastic Atmosphere

Carn Gowla is not everyones cup of tea, but you cant deny that for adventure and a fairly unique experince in Cornwall it has it all. Once again you cant help but pat yourself on the back for being so lucky to live in this climbing paradise.

Not a bad belay

We had checked out Supernatural which was our original target, but the waves and wind drove us off from there. It was good to know that there are at least two good belay stakes still there. However I think I’ll take my portable stake with me when we go in the next few weeks just for added comfort … haha

A beer and some food helped make this a memorable eveneing as we watched the sun go down. A common occurance in this year of drought and clear skies.

The Slog Out
Climbing

It’s the Cake that wins it

Leave a comment

31st July 2026

The Rumps

Bulls on Parade – Severe 4a – Lead
Goofy – Severe 4b – T/R

First time for Rauf who joined Mike and me on one of our climbing outings. I needed somewhere reasonably close and with acceptable routes and The Rumps did it. You do need to lead to get up to the large ledge, but once there it’s possible to set up a bottom rope for all the climbs. Coming down does involve some back and fronting down a narrow v gulley, but it’s not too bad

The climbs here are all a bit harder than they look. From below they look like a waltz, but you need to treat them with respect. For Rauf it was an eye opener back to his youth which I think was the last time he climbed. He did really well and more importantly loved it, so I can see a few more little ventures out coming our way in the near future.

I think the thing that most amazed him is that feeling of remoteness you get when you get on the sea cliffs here. Once you move down to the crag you rarely see anybody. This is one of the elements of climbing in Cornwall I love. I fell out of love with surfing to a certain extent because I lost the solitude of being able to surf with just your mate. This was when you could find a peak to yourselves if you timed the tide and venue right. Now it is next to impossible to do, especially with surfline feeding everyone with hourly forecasts and pointing people to the best spots.

Climbing fortunately still hasnt reached that point (I hope it never does). I realise it’s getting more popular, but for the most part there are enough crags to give you lots of space. Otherwise I’m going to have to find another f~*king sport haha.

My favorite bit of the evening was when Rauf suddenly announced we had cake. Cant beat cake to finish of a great outing.

Climbing

Dark Designs

2 Comments

21st July 2026

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS 4b – Lead

I think everyone has those moments where they discuss what they would do if they won the lottery. My particular dream is a house that sits overlooking Treen Cove. I think in todays world they would never have got permission to build it where it is, but it looks like it may be a relic of the mining age, sat between two old mine buildings. Whatever the reason I would live it. But the lottery may be the only way I ever get a look in, unless I resort to more nefarious means. But that leads to darkness…

Amazing

However one dream that could be realised on this day for Chris D and me was the amazing journey into and out of Right Angle. A pretty unique climb for Cornwall, with a traverse in heading towards a creepy sounding cave that booms and gurgles at you for the whole trip.

Start of the traverse in

Then a climb up the corner on great holds and with reassuring pro. It is pure adventure and gets you into a location which is uncommon at the grade. I think this is a must for anyone who climbs in Cornwall. A kind of right of passage.

The VS 4b option

And at the end of it all there is the pub, The Gurnards Head (you can never be sure what colour it’s going to be, but always a landmark. Whenever I see the pub I know I’m in climbing country which gets me excited. It’s also the home of imaginary Dave, whoever that might be???

The climb out
Climbing

Poo Sticks

Leave a comment

13th July 2026

Helman Tor

When it’s this hot (26-27degrees or possibly more) it’s time to get outside. Helman Tor turned out to be a cracking choice and with a breeze and some early morning shade it was really pleasant conditions.

Helman Tor is a little gem, hidden away and quiet it offers some spectacular views out across central Cornwall. More akin to Dartmoor really than the usual Cornwall climbing spots. It sits sits prominently along the famous St. Michael Ley Line, a 350-mile ancient alignment stretching from Norfolk to the Cornish coast. Must be why it has a layed back feeling to it. That is until you start climbing the numerous sandbags it has to offer.

Of course it still exacts its usual price of skin and blood. Sharp granite tends to do that to people. It also provided its fair share of intimidation, although Rich seemed oblivious to this…

For Rich and Ian T this was a first adventure at the location, and it was the first time the four of us (Me and Chris D as well) had climbed outsid as a team. We just about managed to cover a full range climbing, from slopy slabs, to crimpy faces and of course the rounded top outs which are always inspiring. Ian T deployed the famous seal approach to overcome these. Never fails but it can be exacting on skin.

I think this is the way to do bouldering. Get a group of good mates and give each other some encouragement and a few targets to achieve. I find the whole bouldering experience quite intimidating, but get a good bunch of you together and it helps to get you over the line sometimes. You get to feed off each other.

I must remember to stop bleeding over everything. It’s not a good image. I blame my shoes… and my shorts… and the wind direction. Ernie (Ian’s woofer) had the best time, playing fetch the poo and sometimes a stick. What is it with dogs and s#!t.

So I’m hoping this will become a regular intermission from the wall. The odd session outside just provides some variety. Also it helps to harden your hands up (or destroy them) And as a final point, watch out for the Ticks. They are there.

Climbing

A tidy little outing

Leave a comment

10th July 2026

Little Fistral

This was the first outside mission for the Tidy crew. Rather than face melt down climbing inside, we opted for a fresher approach and headed for the beach. And what a glorious day it was too.

Interestingly enough, the steep face at Little Fistral stays in the shade for most of the moring making climbing here really pleasant. Ian T unfortunately spotted the wrong ‘Fistral’ and decided the crowds werent for him, but Rich, Chris D and CJ made it.

For the most part we stuck to the wall of sharp holds. There is a great traverse on the wall which can be climbed both ways. Probably a bit easier going right to left looking at the wall. But whichever way you go it takes its toll on the fingers.

There are also a number of straight up and over routes. There is a lot of potential so it’s a case of pick one and try it.

We finished in the arching cave which is steep but fun and was enough to finish my arms off completely. The resulting foray to the beach cafe was an eye opener in how much busier main Fistral is to Little. There will have been some sore heads later for those on the ale under the sun that early.

Climbing

The trusty climbing guidebook

Leave a comment

8th July 2026

Pentire Point – Thursday Buttress

Silverfish – HS 4b – Lead

You can always rely on a climbing guide to send you all over the cliff looking for a venue. It’s not always just a case of identifying the climb. Sometimes you cant even find the friggin crag!

The line of the elusive Silverfish HS 4b

This was the thrid time I’d looked for Silverfish and Mike and me were not giving up this time. Even when we found the climb we didnt realise it. It’s described as 90ft in the ook, but in reality it’s much more akin to 50ft. We could, of course , have done the common place mistake of mistakenly identifying the climb. So maybe we didnt even do Silverfish. Who knows? As a whole it fit the bill. It was on the front of the buttress and had a top slab. Tick.

An infrequent rest spot.

To be fair, our exploring took us to a beautiful grassy platform, far away from the coast path and with amazing views of the coastline and eventual sunset. Not a bad place to spend an evening.

Mike making it to the top vegetated slab

The climb itself proves harder than it looks. It is full 3d climbing and constantly tries to send you off balance. Good holds, and good foot placements, just not at the same time. The result is that it is more strenuous then expected. Pro is good though, but be careful of rope drag as it’s easy to get the rope jamming in the cracks.

Margaritas

Mike, not having climbing much recently, had a muscle re-awakening, the result of which was a full on pump. But to his credit he made it after some serious puffing.

Then it was time for Margherita’s on the lawn while watch a spectacular sunset. Thanks once again Cornwall.

Climbing

Into the Trees… and the river!

Leave a comment

26th May 2026

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead
Scorpion – HS 4b – Lead

What do you do on the hottest day of the year so far…. what you dont do is head South to West Penwith and irradiate yourself on the granite. This was a late, but fortunate realisation which resulted in Chris D and myself heading for the trees of Dewerstone in an attempt to find some shade.

As it happened, our first climb, Central Grove was in full sun and we both melted on the route. By time we topped out we were frazzled, but it didnt take away that CG is still an amazing route. Just a very hot one on today.

This was the first time Chris and me had climbed as a duo and I think we picked a cracking venue given the conditions. I hope this is a precursor for many more adventures together as I had a great time. Possibly cooling off in the river was the highlight and certainly provided the motivation to get another route in.

The Scorpion was a completely different proposition. Although in the shade which was a relief, it is punctuated by a series of fairly bold moves, particularly at the grade. Each one involves a tricky move away from your pro. To top it all (the sting in the tail) the hardest move is at the top and I would definitely put that at 4c every day of the week. Strangely it was enjoyable, if a little fraught. Maybe not the right route for a burgeoning HS leader. Not if they dont want anxiety problems.

M and S proved a godsend on the way back. Never has water tasted so good. Unfortunately we could go to a tub of Hagen Daz each, so the ice creams will need to wait for the next adventure.

Climbing

Blind Spot

1 Comment

9th October 2025

Penberth

Ragamutti – Severe 4a – Lead
Short back and Sides – Severe 4a – Second
Such Fun – VS 5a – Lead

Dont know how many times I’ve been to Penberth, but somehow missed the three climbs we did today. You even have to walk past them to get to Thirty Something etc.

Penberth looking stunning as usual.

So Chris and I were really pleased to find these three easily accessible climbs. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures wierdly. Considering I post so many on the blog. This isnt the first time recently that I’ve not taken photos though. I’m wondering whether it’s down to the mobile phone ‘does it all’ phenomenon.

So this years resolution is to get back to using a proper camera more often. And making sure I pack it.

All three climbs are worthwhile and each brings a different style. All are well protected as well. Ragamutti moves three a niche and up a sloping corner, SBAS is a straight crack climb, but you can make use of features on the face as well and finally Such Fun, although much steeper, is overcome by a couple of thoughtful moves (and is very well protected).

I’ll add some pictures at a later date. But it is good to know that Chris and I can still find new adventures in old hunting grounds.

Why it never rains on a Friday!