Climbing

Blind Spot

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9th October 2025

Penberth

Ragamutti – Severe 4a – Lead
Short back and Sides – Severe 4a – Second
Such Fun – VS 5a – Lead

Dont know how many times I’ve been to Penberth, but somehow missed the three climbs we did today. You even have to walk past them to get to Thirty Something etc.

Penberth looking stunning as usual.

So Chris and I were really pleased to find these three easily accessible climbs. Unfortunately I didnt take any pictures wierdly. Considering I post so many on the blog. This isnt the first time recently that I’ve not taken photos though. I’m wondering whether it’s down to the mobile phone ‘does it all’ phenomenon.

So this years resolution is to get back to using a proper camera more often. And making sure I pack it.

All three climbs are worthwhile and each brings a different style. All are well protected as well. Ragamutti moves three a niche and up a sloping corner, SBAS is a straight crack climb, but you can make use of features on the face as well and finally Such Fun, although much steeper, is overcome by a couple of thoughtful moves (and is very well protected).

I’ll add some pictures at a later date. But it is good to know that Chris and I can still find new adventures in old hunting grounds.

Climbing

Paying Tribute to Cligga

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18th June 2025

Cligga Head

Stone Table – HS 4b – Lead

That bloody ab rope. Mike and I have issues with this rope. It always ends up depositing us about 15-20ft above where we need to be. Hence the need for a bit of nervy soloing to get to the starting slab of Stone Table. We’re using a 40m rope, but next time I’ll bring the 60m.

This time we abbed down mucky gulley (yet another way down) using the same stake as for C Land Super. Quite a bit of crumbly stuff at the top of the ab, but the climb is on good rock for the most part.

The start of Stone Table

It’s a tale of two crux’s, with fairly straight for ward climbing at about Diff in between. The first is an energetic layback with great holds as long as you dont ruin them with clever gear placement haha. The second a mantelshelf onto a short wall, which is exposed, but not too difficult (although you need to hunt out the gear placements).

Cligga really is an adventure climbing paradice. For somewhere that is just round the corner from Perranporth, it has a remote, wild feeling to it. Probably because of the commitment to get in. But also becasue you never see anyone here, except the odd kayaker and seal.

So glad we’ve returned to this venue and for evening hits it’s brilliant. The sunsets arnt bad either, especially when you can wash it down with a warm can of Tribute.

Climbing

The signs of madness

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17th June 2025

Vessacks West

Little White Jug – V Diff – Lead
Flared Nostrils – HS 4b – Lead (rpt)

As you get older I think you are meant to learn from past experiences. So having shredded myself on Flared Nostrils last time following Chris up, I figured I’d do it again, this time whilst leading. Not my best decision.

It looks so innocuous from below. But it pushes you out and you end up needing to jam on sharp crystals. It’s not that pleasant really so why did I do it again. I of course blame Barry who given a choice selected it. Possibly he and Craig regreted this decision as they too bled for the cause.

Craig on the deceptive ‘Flared Nostrils’

It was though another great day out in such a beautiful part of the county. We are blessed to have this on our doorstep, and as yet we are untouched by the crowds elsewhere in the uk.

The not so easy decent route

I think Barry and Craig had a good day. Vessacks West is ideal for novice climbers and is a good place to ‘learn the ropes’. Maybe next time we’ll try something a bit higher and get some exposure involved.

Climbing

Only in Cornwall….

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11th June 2025

Cligga Head
C-Land Super – VS 4c – Alt lead

On a windy, grey evening with storm clouds approaching, it was kind of surreal to encounter a burlesque dance class, whooping away in an industrial unit in the middle of no-where. But it did bring a broader grin to both Chris and my face, than the one which was already there, having found a little gem of a VS at Cligga.

Fortunately the trials that Mike and I went through the previous week when exploring the crag, meant we knew exactly where to ab in to start this route. It also helped that we could use the ab rope as a belay anchor, so we were set up pronto and ready to begin what was another typical Cornish sea cliff adventure, especially for Chris who had the waves getting closer and closer as I climbed.

I was surprised to find that it was the initial opening moves up to the huge overhang and then across to the base of the main chimney , that were the most tense. There is good gear in the initial crack, but to avoid rope drag this needed to be extended by about 5 ft. So any fall would have put me right back at the start. This is a delicate section. Small footplacements and slopers for holds means you need to approach it carefully.

But once in the chimney, you get all the advantages of bridging, right up to the final escape out of the chimney, on a brilliant jug, which looks like it will snap off at any moment.

We also managed to beat the rain which was moving steadily towards us from over St Ives way. It was a real quick hit and was quite satisfying to know we could work this efficiently when we needed to.

So we hit all the ticks:-
It was scary
It was technical
It was grey and a bit forbidding
We had a laugh
and we had cheese and biscuits for dinner.

Job done!

Climbing

High Stakes (or a lack of)

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2nd June 2025

Pentire – Redwalls
Joseph Bell – HS 4b – Lead

Mike and me are making a habit of these evening climbs. They are encouraging us to do a bit more local exploration, which I have to be honest and say should have been the case anyway.

Redwalls Crag – Pentire

This evening saw a return to Pentire Head and the Redwall area. Really easy access from the Pentire Farm car park. Just follow the main track to the coast and drop down right of the bench. It looks like you should go left, but the right gulley allows you to arc around to the face. It’s also out the wind when it’s South Westerly.

I’d previously done a couple of climbs on this wall, but had missed the HS, so me and Mike set up for what we thought would be a straight forward route. It was in a way, but the opening steep and awkward corner catches you out, meaning it’s easy to get pumped. We split it into two pitches which seemed sensible. The second up the tall corner is well protected and has good holds. The rock appears more fragile, but I had no breakages, although some holds you wouldnt want to yard on. Both of us were pretty knackered by time we finished. I still dont feel quite climbing fit. More work needed on endurance.

Top section of Joseph Bell HS 4b

The belay at the top is awkward. There’s a very old stake which is decidedly dubious, but would probably hold. You can find placements in the little rock crowns scattered behind, but I’d advise using multiple anchors.

The weather wasnt the bright sunshine of our previous outings. Much more forbidding, but the light created a bit of a Jurrasic Park feel to the area. Still amazingly beautiful.


Climbing

No footprints in the sand

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15th May 2025

Whirl Pool Buttress
Earthly Powers – E2 5c – Alt Lead

There are occasions when you find yourself outside of your comfort zone. Then there are occasions when you find yourself outside of the outside of your comfort zone. This was one of them.

From the moment I peeked over the top of the headwall while abseiling down, I knew this was going to be an adventure to remember. And it was and for all the right reasons.

All credit for Joe in finding the correct abseil point, which is important as you’ll need that rope later! And also credit to Joe for spotting that this route was going to be in condition after the dry spell we’ve had. Azure sea’s greeted us on the approach and a pristeen little beachonce we landed.

You get a birds eye view of the route on the descent, so it’s easy to see whats coming. It’s steep imposing and in the shade. Being North facing it just doesnt get the sun. This doesnt detract from its quality. Perfect granite ( a little moist in the very early stages) and moves to match.

The first pitch is the crunch one. Joe led this, reaching the reachy move out of the niche fairly quickly. Getting into the niche is not so eay either. However the stretch, is a commiting move. One which you need to get right. And Joe duly delivered. On my go, I have to be honest I felt like it could have gone either way. But as is supported by the comments on UKC, once you go, it’s not so bad.

What follows is no pushover either. A dropping rail, with little for your feet leads to a commiting rock-over. A great pitch of climbing by any standards.

My pitch was definitely easier. It meanders back and forth up the headwall. Good gear keeps the nerves at bay. I went slightly wrong at the top getting a bit off route and barndooring when I reached the grass. But the climb is over by this point, with only the hideous exit up 12ft of vertical grass to contend with.

I am so grateful to have a partner like Joe, who consistently gets me pushing myself. I would not dream of tackling a route like this, without the knowledge that I’m with someone who can get us through the tough bits.

A day that will long stay in my memory.

Climbing

Type 3 fun

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2nd May 2025

Upton Slabs/Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle
Two Pints To Capel – VS 4b – Lead
Pewter Crack – VS 4c – Second
Foaming Jugs – HVS 5a – T/R dnf

It’s not often that I’ve run out of quickdrawers and this was not really the time for me to do it. It definitely made for a very nervy and exciting finish to Two Pints to Capel.

As a VS I was not expecting a route which felt so bold. The rock was the main issue, being unreliable on many occasions and this sows the seeds of doubt about gear placement. There are some good pieces, but a lot are small wire slots which I would not like to load, particularly in a leader fall.

The line of Two Pints to Capel follows the ab rope

The fact I ran out of quickdrawers and cams is testimony to how much gear I placed. It’s a long route, that accumulates in your toes. I found it tested my calmness to it’s limit. At one point, 8ft above my last piece of dubious gear (micro nut) I did question my life choices. Of course as soon as I toped out, it became the best route I’d climbed in ages. It’s all a case of the moment.

Joe just about to move onto the upper headwall

Our next destination was almost as opposite as you could get. A leaning stack of rock. Good gear, big holds but overhanging and very powerful. A proper contrast.

Upton Arrowhead Pinnacle

Joe dispatched the VS, but we chose to top rope the HVS. In hindsight, it was well within Joe’s capabilities, but when you havnt been climbing as often, a sense of doubt quickly sets in. It was too much for me with my puny muscles, but it was a great route. I’d like to return with more bravado and power. Maybe then it is within my sights.

Pewter Crack

So two crags in one day. Not bad. Good to see Joe again as always and good to climb ‘up North’. Will return soon.

Climbing

A fabled journey

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24th April 2025

Carn Gowla
Journey to Ixlan – HVS 4c – Alt Lead

Been a long time coming, but finally I’ve done the great odyssey of JtI. What a route! Fragile Rock, huge exposure, tricky route-finding and rope drag. It’s got it all.

Looking back up the ramp having established the belay at the end of Pitch 1

When Nick had suggested climbing, I didnt anticipate Carn Gowla, but once again the dry spring meant a often wet crag was in condition. Couple this with a lifting of the ban which had been in place last year because of Peregrins and JtI was on.

Pitch 2

It’s 5 pitches. Pitch 1 is a descent of a ramp to what is really the first belay. Then the interesting climbing really starts. Each pitch has its own character. I would say P4 has the single hardest move (and the most exposure), but P5 is the most sustained and has the additional problem of rope drag, which should not be underestimated.

Belay at the end of Pitch 2

It’s a full outing, but so engaging time just flies. Add in the impressive sea state with roaring and surging surf, wind and seagulls and your senses are overwhelmed. It is such a privelege to be able to climb in these areas. Something few get to witness which makes it feel even more special.

Nick nearing the end of Pitch 4

It was so good to climb together with Nick after what has been a long break. I’m sure now we’ll get on it and bag a few more epics before the end of the year.

Climbing

More is better?

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13th March 2025

Vessacks West

North End CrackVDLead O/S
Neptune’s KingdomVDLead O/S
Chilli DogS 4aLead O/S
Flared NostrilsHS 4b2nd O/S
Sausage RollVD2nd O/S
Little White JugVD2nd O/S
High FlyerDSolo O/S
The LiftMSolo

So Vessacks West is a good place for grabbing a load of ticks (albeit in mainly lower grades). But despite their apparent straightforwardness, these felt like good routes. Excellent positive granite and a great setting made for a really enjoyable day.

Sometimes I feel we get sucked into the harder is better scenarios. I would agree that completing a hard route comes with a lot of satisfaction and a great sense of achievement. But you can get lost in this, to the point where you ignore the amazing feeling of just climbing with no fear and the ability to take in your surroundings fully.

Chris on High Flyer

Chris and I had so much fun this day. I want more occasions like this, where lunch is just as important as the climbs. The crag is quite short, so you can literally be up and down in no time at all. Then its on to the neighbour. The photos speak for themselves.

Climbing

Choughing Freezin

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7th February 2025

Sennen
Hayloft (P1) – VS 4c – T/R
Slanting Crack – HVS 5a – T/R

This was always going to be a bit of an ordeal. Sunny weather, but bitterly cold. The Hayloft area seemed a good choice as it catches the sun early and being granite retains a bit of warmth.

We were accompanied by the usual Choughs whizzing around on the upper ledges. They are definitely getting more numerous. It’s a common sight down on West Penwith.

The first pitch of Hayloft is fun in its own right. Straight forward but good for a practice session. Moving straight on to Slanting Crack was not one of my better ideas. My memory played games with me. I seemed to remember positive but small holds leading up to the much more amenable slanting crack. However the opening moves are a bit desperate, especially with cold fingers.

So Ian, Barry and me called it a day, giving in to the cold and heading off. It’s never though a wasted day sat in the sun in such a beautiful location. Maybe we will return shortly for a tour of the north end of Sennen.

Why it never rains on a Friday!