4th May 2012
Pordenack Point
Nothing Much – HVS 5a – Lead
Friends – VS 5a – Lead
Wrist Climb – V Diff
Economists Route – V Diff
The aim was to have a go at a set of 3 HVS’s at Pordenack, but the reality was that two is enough to fill you up. Or at least in my case it is.
I tend to think that the routes at Pordenack are in general quite hard for the grade and Nothing Much and Friends proved no exception to that theory. Chris’s assessment of Wrist climb would back that up, with the final traverse and crack being a real challenge for a V Diff leader. Even Economists climb, which Tom and Dave doubled up on for their first alternate lead, is bold in places if not technically difficult.

Ian actually chimneying. A rare sight.

The tough sequence on Nothing Much
We paired up with Chris and Pete on Wrist Climb and me, Dave and Tom on Nothing Much. NM is actually a bit more than nothing. All the difficulty is below the crux, but in damp conditions it felt quite hard and the crux move is exposed and committing. The moves are good though, and getting through the niche is challenging culminating in a less than secure pull up around the obvious flake.

Soaking up the sunshine
Instead of finishing off the second pitch which we had done before, we scrambled back to the gearing up ledge, a pretty exhilarating route in its own right, traversing across the top of all the climbs with lots of airy drops around.

Group Climbing!
Then it was on to friends. In theory an easier climb, but in reality a strenuous and relentless climb once you’ve committed to the main crack. I had a real struggle with this having to work hard throughout and eventually succombing to the pump when I managed to create a really weird nut, Krab and rope knot which I couldnt undo.

Ian wrestling with his nuts....
To be fair I was on my limit then, so this just ensured I didnt make the onsite, but I was only a few moves from the top.

Chris in the upper niche on Friends

Chris on the exposed top moves of Friends
Chris kindly then showed me how to do the top, wild moves finishing off what I had started. Its a brilliant climb, one of the best I’ve done and I’ll be back to clean it. Pete, who had been eyeing the climb up nervously, overcame any uncertainty and gave it everything, making a fantastic job of seconding Chris. Probably the hardest climb Pete’s done so far, so hats off! I made it up on the second, so its just a case of finishing the lead.

Tom and Dave on Economists Route

Tom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route
Meanwhile Dave and Tom were on Economists Route. Not technically the most difficult, but bold in places. For their first alternate multipitch lead it was a good choice. It’s easy to forget how challenging Sea Cliffs are at whatever grade so this was a real achievement and I’m sure opens the door to many more ascents.
Finally we all spent some time on Vietnamerica, an E1 with a tricky start, especially now the wedged boulders have fallen down. Its good practice on a climb with thin holds and balancy moves.

Dave high on Vietnamerica
What a cracking day. Hopefully the forerunner to many more this summer. I need to keep working on my stamina. It’ll come, back only with a bit more hard climbing.
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Dave high on Vietnamerica
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Pete having cleared the tough overhang on Friends
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Chris on the exposed top moves of Friends
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Chris in the upper niche on Friends
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Chris getting established in the initial crack of Friends
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The tricky initial move into the crack on Friends
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Dave moving up the first pitch of Economists Route
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Ian heading up the damp lower corner of Nothing Much
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Ian wrestling with his nuts….
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The sustained middle section of Friends
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Tom leading the first and relatively bold pitch of Economists Route
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Ian actually chimneying. A rare sight.
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The tough sequence on Nothing Much
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Group Climbing!
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Ian on the crux of Nothing Much
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Tom and Dave on Economists Route
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Belay huddle.
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Soaking up the sunshine
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Dave on the top slab of Nothing Much