Lands End does Strictly

August 27, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

27th August 2026

Lands End – Hotel Buttress

Lands End Long Climb – HVD 4a – Alt Lead

Just how twisted can your ropes get during a climb. Well the answer is twisted enough to dance your way all the way up 7 pitches. For some reason, however we ran the pitch, the rope always crossed over requiring a lot of spinning. It was like doing the Salsa.

Last time out, me and Chris S got rained off. It almost happened again. Standing on the belay ledge of Pitch 2 (the crux pitch imo) watching the squalls move across the ocean off Lands End there was that ominous feeling we were going to have to abandon agaian. But the weather gods were with us. And the jumping dolphins who stayed with us all day agreed. Get on!

Pich 1 – Dolphins spent the day fishing just next to the island

For me it was 15 years since I climbed LELC. For Chris it was 20! This probably explains why neither of us could remember a thing about it. My only real recollection was that the top of the chimney pitch had a tough move. I’d forgotten that ei9ther side, there were plenty of other tough moves. For HVD it is not to be sniffed at. Depending on the line you take, it offers up some excellent moves. P2 is probably the crux.

Waiting out the rain on the tricky and awkward Pitch 2

Awkward moves lead to a powerful exit. Pitch 5 is great on bridging, but has a sting in the tail. And the final pitch is steep if you go direct which tbh is the best line.

It also has a bit of everything. Jamming, crimps, slopers, traverses, bridging, laybacks. They’re all there. What a great climb. For me and Chris S this was our first actual climb of the year. It brought back memories of loads of great times and was good to be back out together again. The fact we’re both climbing with injuries probably explains why we found it so tough.

Lands End is a bit of an enigma as well. They brilliantly give out local pases for free parking (if you provide your license and proof of address), but it is ultimately a tourist centre, and today was really busy. It’s quite nice to climb in solitude with just the amazing views and sound of the seagulls and then re-emerge into Cornwalls disneyland with all the buzz of the crowds and amusements. What Cornwalls always been about really. Contrasts.

Climbing

When the ab is the star of the show

August 24, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

24th August 2026

Carn Gowla – C Buttress

Sundance – HS 4b – Lead

Sundance is by no means the best HS at Gowla, but the ab down to the ledge at the bottom of Rainbow Games is one to set the pulse going. It’s been a while since I climbed here. I think the last time was when a group of us top roped the two E2’s here and that must be going back to 2012!

Looking at Rainbow Games I still get the urge to have a crack on the lead. I think realistically this will have to be after I’ve had my hip done, but it’s there and calling….

Sundance is as described. Pleasant. I think it falls nearer Severe than HS. Possibly the pro might up the severity rating, but the climbing is straight forward. Mike and I cruised this one. We split the climb just above the rib and Mike led the final section. First lead in a long time I think and Gowla at that.

We were cheated out of our usual amazing sunset by a cloud bank. And boy are the evenings drawing in fast now. It wont be long before the evening sessions will have to wait for spring. I would add that for anyone thinking of climbing this buttress the walk in and out is steep. I must do something about how heavy my climbing pack is. Probably sneeking it into Mikes might be a good bet 🙂

Climbing

What a difference a day…. 14years makes

August 11, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

11th August 2026

Carn Barra

Axis – VS 5a – Lead
Niche Wall – HS 4b – Lead (now more like VS 4c)

So Chris D and me were aiming at a session on Chair Ladder. Tick of one or more of the classic VS’s there. However a combination of poor driving (by the other silly sods on the road) meant that we parked on the 3 chimneys road, instead of the grass cark park at Porthchapel beach. This in turn meant a longer walk in and how can you resist Carn Barra when it’s there right in front of you. (We also didnt want to be burned to a crisp on the belay ledges at CL.

Emboldened by my exploits on Supernatural, I figured that Axis would be a good shout. 11 years of forgetfulness meant I’d forgotten that it’s actually quite hard ( even though I missed out the bouldery start this time). Chris as I would have expected made short work of this when he followed up. It’s the awkward nature of the climb that means you seem to always be a little out of position. I huffed and puffed my way up, but ultimately I was really pleased to make it cleanly. It kind of confirmed to me that I am back to VS level again as I know many of the other classics dont pose the same problems that Axis does.

Chris cruised through and then couldnt resist the alure of Illustrated Man, the E2 5b/c next door which offers much more demanding climbing and a real test on both the crack and overhang. Chris also passed some positive remarks about wanting to have a go at Ra! I have nightmares about that bloody route. Everything about screams bad news. But Chris’ experiences in American means that splitter cracks are atractive…… If I try that one again I’m coming in full body armor.

We headed over to the Southern Platform for the afternoon. I’d wanted to try Weasle again, but it was cut off by the tide, so we set up for Niche Wall. It was 14 years ago I climbed this and tbh I’d forgotten that I had. Anyway, it’s not the same climb anymore. The middle section where the good ledge was is now a far bigger ledge as a massive boulder has fallen off. This makes this section horrible if you try to follow the wider crack on the left. Rotten rock and no pro makes for some insecure climbing. I left it alone, opting to move across to the right and pick up the thin finger crack that runs right to left on a rising line. It crosses Sea Wolf, the HVS, but is better protected and more positive, if quite strenuous.

This really lifts the grade of the climb to nearer VS I rekon. It’s entertaining doing it this way, but maybe it has lost some of it’s original appeal.

Chris and me left following this before we became over-cooked. The hot weather is just running and running. Got to get the aircon fixed in the car again. It’s a nightmare without it. As soon as we get some cooler periods, Chris and me are going to get on those multi-pitch VS’s at Bosi and Chair Ladder. This is a bid to do all the 3 star routes around this grade in Cornwall over the coming period. Lets see if it happens.

Climbing

Cracking good fun

August 10, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

10th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Supernatural – VS 4c – Lead

Some climbs were created to put a smile on your face and make you very content with life. Obviously this sometimes comes after you’ve been through the whole gambit of emotions…. fear, relief, uncertainty, bravado… beforehand

Hunting out the stakes. Make sure to use both of them.

Supernatural can do that. It is truly an adventure. Finding it can be tricky, despite the fact it is reasonably close to the car park; getting to the starting belay ledge is a mission in its own right; and then launching up 50m of amazing crack climbing (without running out of appropriately sized gear) to a loose finish.

Dropping over the edge on the ab rope feels like leaving the world behind. Mike, on only his second visit to Gowla was loving it. After what had been a few years away from climbing, the two of us are racking up some memorable routes. This one though is in a different league.

Beta – Some advice for the route. It takes a lot of medium sized gear. By that I mean Camelot Size 1 or larger (the red one) and medium Hex’s are useful. It is longer than you might expect. Also we flaked our twin ropes into a rope bag before descending and hung it of the ab rope once we got down there. This keeps everything a bit more tidy. And finally, watch the belay station at the top. Anything you knock off heads down straight towards your second.

As far as the climbing goes, it’s amazing. I’m sure it felt harder than the first time I climbed it, but I am a few years older now. The crux was tricky, but that could be because I didnt sort my feet out very well. Mike did fantasticaly well and didnt seem overawed bythe route at all. In fact he had ‘the smile’ on when he hit the top.

What a buzz! And as usual we were accompanied by an amazing sunset to finish off with. What a year this is turning out to be.

For me, this was a bit of affirmation that I can still climb at VS with reasonable comfort. My hip is causing me to adapt my climbing style and technique regularly to avoid over bridging or high steps. Mind you it’s amazing what adrenalin will do for you at certain moments haha.

Climbing

Slightly Touched

August 5, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

5th August 2026

Carn Gowla

Touch the Earth – VS 4b – Lead

A great venue to pick after you’ve had a hard workout on your quads is Carn Gowla…. not. Despite knowing that walking down to and out of most of the crags on Gowla equals pain, Mike and I decided that this was cliff for us. There’s nothing like that end of session slog back up to the coast path to make you reflect of life choices.

That said, I couldnt resist returning to this little gem of a climb on Indian Buttress. Easy to get to (for Gowla) and amazing positions at a really amenable grade. I missed out the bottom part of the climb up the arete because of the sea state, but to be fair it is the top wall that is the money shot.

Loads of positive holds and foot placements, grippy fresh rock and pleasant belays adds up to great climbing. It’s the gear that probably justifies the grade, although this is good if you take your time to find it. I’ve done a lot harder VS’s but few that are in such an awesome postion with maginificent exposure. The waves and light made for a great addition to the whole feeling on this evening. I could tell by Mikes smile that he was loving it.

Carn Gowla is not everyones cup of tea, but you cant deny that for adventure and a fairly unique experince in Cornwall it has it all. Once again you cant help but pat yourself on the back for being so lucky to live in this climbing paradise.

We had checked out Supernatural which was our original target, but the waves and wind drove us off from there. It was good to know that there are at least two good belay stakes still there. However I think I’ll take my portable stake with me when we go in the next few weeks just for added comfort … haha