It’s the Cake that wins it

July 31, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

31st July 2026

The Rumps

Bulls on Parade – Severe 4a – Lead
Goofy – Severe 4b – T/R

First time for Rauf who joined Mike and me on one of our climbing outings. I needed somewhere reasonably close and with acceptable routes and The Rumps did it. You do need to lead to get up to the large ledge, but once there it’s possible to set up a bottom rope for all the climbs. Coming down does involve some back and fronting down a narrow v gulley, but it’s not too bad

The climbs here are all a bit harder than they look. From below they look like a waltz, but you need to treat them with respect. For Rauf it was an eye opener back to his youth which I think was the last time he climbed. He did really well and more importantly loved it, so I can see a few more little ventures out coming our way in the near future.

I think the thing that most amazed him is that feeling of remoteness you get when you get on the sea cliffs here. Once you move down to the crag you rarely see anybody. This is one of the elements of climbing in Cornwall I love. I fell out of love with surfing to a certain extent because I lost the solitude of being able to surf with just your mate. This was when you could find a peak to yourselves if you timed the tide and venue right. Now it is next to impossible to do, especially with surfline feeding everyone with hourly forecasts and pointing people to the best spots.

Climbing fortunately still hasnt reached that point (I hope it never does). I realise it’s getting more popular, but for the most part there are enough crags to give you lots of space. Otherwise I’m going to have to find another f~*king sport haha.

My favorite bit of the evening was when Rauf suddenly announced we had cake. Cant beat cake to finish of a great outing.

Climbing

Dark Designs

July 23, 2026 dillwat 2 Comments

21st July 2026

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS 4b – Lead

I think everyone has those moments where they discuss what they would do if they won the lottery. My particular dream is a house that sits overlooking Treen Cove. I think in todays world they would never have got permission to build it where it is, but it looks like it may be a relic of the mining age, sat between two old mine buildings. Whatever the reason I would live it. But the lottery may be the only way I ever get a look in, unless I resort to more nefarious means. But that leads to darkness…

However one dream that could be realised on this day for Chris D and me was the amazing journey into and out of Right Angle. A pretty unique climb for Cornwall, with a traverse in heading towards a creepy sounding cave that booms and gurgles at you for the whole trip.

Then a climb up the corner on great holds and with reassuring pro. It is pure adventure and gets you into a location which is uncommon at the grade. I think this is a must for anyone who climbs in Cornwall. A kind of right of passage.

And at the end of it all there is the pub, The Gurnards Head (you can never be sure what colour it’s going to be, but always a landmark. Whenever I see the pub I know I’m in climbing country which gets me excited. It’s also the home of imaginary Dave, whoever that might be???

Climbing

Poo Sticks

July 13, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

13th July 2026

Helman Tor

When it’s this hot (26-27degrees or possibly more) it’s time to get outside. Helman Tor turned out to be a cracking choice and with a breeze and some early morning shade it was really pleasant conditions.

Helman Tor is a little gem, hidden away and quiet it offers some spectacular views out across central Cornwall. More akin to Dartmoor really than the usual Cornwall climbing spots. It sits sits prominently along the famous St. Michael Ley Line, a 350-mile ancient alignment stretching from Norfolk to the Cornish coast. Must be why it has a layed back feeling to it. That is until you start climbing the numerous sandbags it has to offer.

Of course it still exacts its usual price of skin and blood. Sharp granite tends to do that to people. It also provided its fair share of intimidation, although Rich seemed oblivious to this…

For Rich and Ian T this was a first adventure at the location, and it was the first time the four of us (Me and Chris D as well) had climbed outsid as a team. We just about managed to cover a full range climbing, from slopy slabs, to crimpy faces and of course the rounded top outs which are always inspiring. Ian T deployed the famous seal approach to overcome these. Never fails but it can be exacting on skin.

I think this is the way to do bouldering. Get a group of good mates and give each other some encouragement and a few targets to achieve. I find the whole bouldering experience quite intimidating, but get a good bunch of you together and it helps to get you over the line sometimes. You get to feed off each other.

I must remember to stop bleeding over everything. It’s not a good image. I blame my shoes… and my shorts… and the wind direction. Ernie (Ian’s woofer) had the best time, playing fetch the poo and sometimes a stick. What is it with dogs and s#!t.

So I’m hoping this will become a regular intermission from the wall. The odd session outside just provides some variety. Also it helps to harden your hands up (or destroy them) And as a final point, watch out for the Ticks. They are there.

Climbing

A tidy little outing

July 10, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

10th July 2026

Little Fistral

This was the first outside mission for the Tidy crew. Rather than face melt down climbing inside, we opted for a fresher approach and headed for the beach. And what a glorious day it was too.

Interestingly enough, the steep face at Little Fistral stays in the shade for most of the moring making climbing here really pleasant. Ian T unfortunately spotted the wrong ‘Fistral’ and decided the crowds werent for him, but Rich, Chris D and CJ made it.

For the most part we stuck to the wall of sharp holds. There is a great traverse on the wall which can be climbed both ways. Probably a bit easier going right to left looking at the wall. But whichever way you go it takes its toll on the fingers.

There are also a number of straight up and over routes. There is a lot of potential so it’s a case of pick one and try it.

We finished in the arching cave which is steep but fun and was enough to finish my arms off completely. The resulting foray to the beach cafe was an eye opener in how much busier main Fistral is to Little. There will have been some sore heads later for those on the ale under the sun that early.

Climbing

The trusty climbing guidebook

July 8, 2026 dillwat Leave a comment

8th July 2026

Pentire Point – Thursday Buttress

Silverfish – HS 4b – Lead

You can always rely on a climbing guide to send you all over the cliff looking for a venue. It’s not always just a case of identifying the climb. Sometimes you cant even find the friggin crag!

The line of the elusive Silverfish HS 4b

This was the thrid time I’d looked for Silverfish and Mike and me were not giving up this time. Even when we found the climb we didnt realise it. It’s described as 90ft in the ook, but in reality it’s much more akin to 50ft. We could, of course , have done the common place mistake of mistakenly identifying the climb. So maybe we didnt even do Silverfish. Who knows? As a whole it fit the bill. It was on the front of the buttress and had a top slab. Tick.

To be fair, our exploring took us to a beautiful grassy platform, far away from the coast path and with amazing views of the coastline and eventual sunset. Not a bad place to spend an evening.

Mike making it to the top vegetated slab

The climb itself proves harder than it looks. It is full 3d climbing and constantly tries to send you off balance. Good holds, and good foot placements, just not at the same time. The result is that it is more strenuous then expected. Pro is good though, but be careful of rope drag as it’s easy to get the rope jamming in the cracks.

Mike, not having climbing much recently, had a muscle re-awakening, the result of which was a full on pump. But to his credit he made it after some serious puffing.