lands end | The Magik Rock

27th August 2026

Lands End – Hotel Buttress

Lands End Long Climb – HVD 4a – Alt Lead

Just how twisted can your ropes get during a climb. Well the answer is twisted enough to dance your way all the way up 7 pitches. For some reason, however we ran the pitch, the rope always crossed over requiring a lot of spinning. It was like doing the Salsa.

Last time out, me and Chris S got rained off. It almost happened again. Standing on the belay ledge of Pitch 2 (the crux pitch imo) watching the squalls move across the ocean off Lands End there was that ominous feeling we were going to have to abandon agaian. But the weather gods were with us. And the jumping dolphins who stayed with us all day agreed. Get on!

Pich 1 – Dolphins spent the day fishing just next to the island

For me it was 15 years since I climbed LELC. For Chris it was 20! This probably explains why neither of us could remember a thing about it. My only real recollection was that the top of the chimney pitch had a tough move. I’d forgotten that ei9ther side, there were plenty of other tough moves. For HVD it is not to be sniffed at. Depending on the line you take, it offers up some excellent moves. P2 is probably the crux.

Waiting out the rain on the tricky and awkward Pitch 2

Awkward moves lead to a powerful exit. Pitch 5 is great on bridging, but has a sting in the tail. And the final pitch is steep if you go direct which tbh is the best line.

It also has a bit of everything. Jamming, crimps, slopers, traverses, bridging, laybacks. They’re all there. What a great climb. For me and Chris S this was our first actual climb of the year. It brought back memories of loads of great times and was good to be back out together again. The fact we’re both climbing with injuries probably explains why we found it so tough.

Lands End is a bit of an enigma as well. They brilliantly give out local pases for free parking (if you provide your license and proof of address), but it is ultimately a tourist centre, and today was really busy. It’s quite nice to climb in solitude with just the amazing views and sound of the seagulls and then re-emerge into Cornwalls disneyland with all the buzz of the crowds and amusements. What Cornwalls always been about really. Contrasts.

21st April 2017

Lands End

The Cormorants Bill – HVS/E1 5b – Second
Longships Wall – E3 6a – Second (Dogged, but only just 🙂 )

I had anticipated an inch deep pile of shite around most of Lands End. Its often been the way when I’ve come here in the past and with the start of nesting season I realised a few routes would be off limits and many covered in guano.

But I was pleasantly surprised to find it wasnt so bad, especially on Cormorant Promontory. There were shags nesting on the lateral walls, but the bill was clear (probably just too steep) and the top points wernt covered in poo. Bonus.

The ab in was as atmospheric as it was last time when I was here with Pete doing Cormorant Face and so Joe and I found ourselves on the base ledge in the sunshine on probably the best day of the year so far.

Cormorants Bill has three crux’s in my opinion. The opening few metres are desperate. Joe jammed, I back and fronted. Then its getting established in the crack (no easy feat) with jams and bridging. And finally its getting through the overhang. Joe finger locked and pulled. I pansey’d around for a long time until I realised I was facing the wrong way (thanks for the tight rope here Joe 🙂 ).

Once facing the correct way it was OK with high feet to get established and then a bit of a rock over. Once I’d worked it out it didnt seem too bad. I think I need to come back and lead this one, but I’ll make sure I’m on form.

I’d planned on scouting a couple of routes on the World’s End face, but the ledges were actually completely white. It would not have been pleasant. So while Dave and Tom were off on Lands End Long Climb, we went to Longships Wall so Joe could have a go at an E3 no less. What an amazing climb it is. Longships Wall has it all. A very difficult start, tough crux and sustained but immaculate climbing through out.

Joe worked it a bit on a shunt and then had a go in less than ideal conditions. The sun was beating down, and the rock had started to feel greasey. That said Joe made a valiant attempt, only failing on the crux because he got out of sequence on the moves. This will be one to return to. On my part, I struggled with the start (three tries before I got through) and then couldnt do the crux. I did eventually find a much easier alternative by using holds wide left and laying offthem. And then it just continues, and continues and continues. Great move after great move. What a climb. Maybe the hardest and best I’ve done, but so satisfying. I’m coming back to do this many more times, on a top rope of course unless I become super confident and fit in the near future.

I video’d a lot of the day and it has come out well. This will be the start of my year long video diary and will hopefully capture the essence of what it’s like to climb and be a climber in Cornwall. And old one anyway.