Tag Archives: Loose Limpet Crack

Dont go chasing waterfalls

27th July 2012
Tregiffian

Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead
Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead
Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second

Just incredible

So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.

The boulder cave entrance

So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.

Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab

My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.

Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.

Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch

OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.

Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.

Chris getting balanced on Acid Test

Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.

Cooling my feet
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack

Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux.  Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.

Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack

What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.