Monthly Archives: April 2024

Climbing

When your nuts drop for the second time

Leave a comment

24th April 2024

Cornakey Cliff

Stormy Weather – HVS 5a – Lead
Sunday Bloody Sunday – E2 5c – Second
Wreckers Slab – VS 4b – Alt Lead

Cornakey Cliff is not an easy ramble in. In fact its a pretty hard slog from Morewenstow Tea Rooms. But it is worth the effort. With going away so close upon me, I was thinking that a relatively relaxed day was in order. Of course stupidly I didnt factor in Joe. And the location should have screamed ‘adventure’ at me.

So it was my first proper HVS lead of the season, followed by an E2 and then a crumbling, run out VS to finish. Nice and relaxed.

Stormy Weather is just brilliant. I t steepens as it gets hight. Pro starts off fiddly and gets better. The perfect way around. It took a few moves before I got my head properly in the game, but then the added fitness from my hours at the wall kicked in and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Even placing pro mid crux. Just shows how strength can be a bonus.

Joe’s E2 was a fitting partner. Much more airy lower down with a poorly protected traverse. As it gets higher you need to work hard on your foot placements. Everything is there, but it needs a bit of thought. Joe made an excellent job on the lead. Looks like he’s going to carry on right from where he left off. I can foresee some brilliant routes ahead.

We had left our bags near the top of the descent. A good idea, but remember to take water. Thanks to Joe and his fitness for sorting this one out.. This meant we could climb out on Wreckers Slab which tops out right at the top of the cliff. No need to drop back down, unless you stupidly throw a set of nuts off the second pitch! The climbing on Wreckers is steady but with spaced gear. 4b is about right, but you need a steady head on some sections as you move a long way above your gear. I loved it. Adventure at its best and would recommend this to anyone who is competant at VS. Pitch 1 is the run out one, although the final section gives it a run for its money. P2 is just great climbing with regular good gear.

What a day. A good lead into summer and a chance to test myself on some challenging climbs. Will be back up to visit Joe soon methinks.

Climbing

You’re a s#!t climber, but you’re great at hanging on…

Leave a comment

19th April 2024

Carn Barra
Illustrated Man – E2 – T/R
Twin Cracks – Severe – Lead

Words you should never utter to a fellow climber, “I havnt really experienced a hard climb”. It is likely to end up messy, as this day did. The choice of Carn Barra was really to give Barry a taste of what hard routes feel like. Its notoriously tough so what better place to get on some routes.

Oh its all happy faces and fun up until you try to climb out!

The central ledge has a number of good E numbers so we thought we’d try that. In hindsight maybe an inescapable ledge with only tough routes to get out on was not the best choice. But we got what we paid for. Illustrious Man is just a joy to climb, but is properly hard. For Barry it was a lesson in how to deploy everything at your disposal just to get upit. He did brilliantly, especially considering the experience he’s had so far. Failing at what I consider to be the crux (the move out of the middle crack system.

Illustrated Man

I made it just. Taught me a lesson in that I’m not where I have been in terms of fitness, as I climbed this clean and fairly well when I was last here with Chris. I did however remember to hang on, something that my old friend Bart (RIP) said I was particularly good at, even if he didnt rate my climbing abilities… haha

In the end Barry climbed out on Dialectic, no mean feat on its own and so the beasting ended and we retired to have a go at Twin Cracks on the upper buttress. I’s only ever climbed pitch 1. Turns out Pitch 2 is the difficult one. Steep and with few rests. PLace gear and keep climbing. Its also brilliantly exposed as you move out above the whole of Carn Barra.

Looking down Twin Cracks

What a day. We had it all. And to top it all off Barry spotted dolphins. And so to the long slog out past the wolfpack which continues to make me smile.

Climbing

I am a washing machine repair god!

Leave a comment

18th April 2024

Pordenack Point

Helmet Ridge Direct – HS 4b – Second

Little Cracker – Severe 4a – Lead

With my confidence overflowing due to a miraculous washing machine repair job, this was a day to check out Sea Fury, a tough HVS or E1 depending on who’s climbing it. I’d not really looked at it properly before and unfortunately the intimidation factor got me on this occasion, but it looks so good from below it will be one for a little later in the year.

Sea Fury

Chris picked out Helmet Ridge Direct for his route. From below it does what many a route does. It looked straight forward. But reality led him into a route with a number of mini crux’s, each of which was awkward and challenging. Maybe worth a little more than HS imo. The adjacent climbs look equally as tough

Dave on Helmet Ridge Direct

Little Cracker was exactly that. A little cracker. A surprising find. After all the times I’ve been here I was really surprised I’d not done this before. It wasnt Sea Fury but it was a good consolation.