Second best is sometimes better

6th December 2013

Gurnards Head

Right Angle – VS 4b (variation) – Lead

Tom and I had intended to try Sensible Shoes at Robins Rocks, but the big swell and damp conditions made the slab shiny and slick. So we retreated with a view to doing Right Angle.

Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards  Carn Gloose
Moody Gurnards Head and the view back towards Carn Gloose

Robins rocks looks a great venue though and one we need to get back to when the conditions are right. Right Angle was wet in places but generally ok. The long traverse in resulted in the usual rope drag. This makes the VS section a bit more tricky as you have to make sure you pull enough slack through to ensure you dont get pulled off.

The long traverse. Plenty of rope drag
The long traverse. Plenty of rope drag

I had just enough ‘draws and gear to get through and rig a decidedly dodgy belay. It was safe, but it didnt look safe. The big No 4 Camelot added a bit of re assurance.

Well, its a belay.... of sorts
Well, its a belay…. of sorts

The big surf made coms haed as well but Tom made a good job of the traverse. Its pretty lonely when you disappear into the niche and lose sight and sound of your belayer as the floor drops away.

The 4b section
The 4b section

The second pitch was as good as usual. Its quite amenable, but there is enough climbing in it and exposure to make it wild and exciting. A quick slip on some wet rock got my heart going and concentrated my mind.

Tom in a dramatic situation.
Tom in a dramatic situation.

A pint at the Gurnards Head pub finished what was a classic autumn days climbing. Grey sky’s with the odd patch of stunning pale gold sunlight. Very beautiful and a good way to spend your day.

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