Tag Archives: Chris

Climbing

Squirrel!

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16th March 2012
Dewerstone Woods – Main Face

Climbers Club Ordinary – VS 4b – Lead
Central Groove – HS 4b – Lead

The wind pushed us into choosing The Dewerstone over The Cheesewring. It turned out to be a top decision. With both Chris and myself there, we split into two pairs, Tom teaming up with Chris.

The Dewerstone wove its magic on the walk in, putting us all in a good mood. So when we reached the main face we were ready to go. My original intention was to climb on Raven buttress, but I had a look at CCO and thought it looked OK. So Dave and I geared up and I set off upand across the traverse. CCO is bold in it’s early stages. There is some gear, but you have to look for it and be inventive.

Dave on CCO
Dave on the second overhang on Climbers Club Ordinary

The flakes which at first seem to be a godsend, turned out to be more scary than safe. I got the feeling that if you managed to dislodge one of them, you’d bring down half the cliff face. So I used my feet and tried not to think about the flakes too much.

Chris going directly through the overhang on Climbers Club Ordinary

The overhang below the first belay ledge also adds some excitment. I went straight up it, strictly part of Climbers Club Direct, but wild and fun. Gets the adrenaline flowing.  When Chris led CCO later on he too went direct so we all made the most of it.

The spooky traverse at the top of Pitch 2 CCO

Pitch two we all agreed had another unnerving traverse, different from the first, in that there was pro, but  probably a bit more exposed. By this time you are high up on the face with the woods stretching out below. It’s quite surreal and very beautiful.

Tom concentrating on the second pitch of CCO

The only spoiler for me was the pesky woodland critter (Squirrel) that ate through my pack, then my fleece and managed to steal my crisps and sandwich. Even my strategically lobbed Krab missed it, hit a rock and bounced into the river. There’s no justice. (Tom did retrieve it for me though)

Squirrel!!!!

Our second climb on Central Groove was equally as good and finished up the same top groove meaning that all of us ended up meeting at the end of a brilliant day.

Dave on the upper slab of Central Groove Pitch 1

Two top climbs.

 

Climbing

The tide waits for no man

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17th February 2012

Chair Ladder
South Face Direct – VS 4c – Alt Lead

Its one of the main factors to take into account with sea cliffs. The tide and swell conditions can change your arrangements in an instance, especially as many of the Cornwall crags are only properly accessable for about 3 hours either side of low tide.

Chris and I had wanted to climb Red Wall, a severe I’ve had my eye on for a while, but after abbing down Ash Can Gulley to the base of SFD it quickly became apparent that we wouldnt get around the corner: at least not without getting soaked.

Ash Can Gully ab

With the bottom pitch of SFD dripping (I know because I slimed my way back up it thanks to Chris’ belay at the start of pitch two) we decided to tackle SFD. Last time I climbed this was with Joe so we flipped the pitches around so that I would lead P2 and Chris the remainder.

I remember the second pitch being tricky and it lived up to expectations. It is great climbing though, not strenuous, but more technical than many VS’s. On reaching the bollard, I made the same mistake as we had done last time, going left and making the top out onto the ledge a lot harder than it needed to be. Also a lot more guano infested, which was stinking.

Chris contemplating the fierce pitch 3

Chris had a quick intro to the fierce pitch three overhang. Lots of holds and pro, but it still takes a lot of grunt to get up it. It’s my favorite pitch on SFD, purely because of the wildness of it. You dont normally get pitches like this on a VS.

Getting started on pitch 3 South Face Direct
Almost a rest spot on Pitch 3

After losing a number 4 wallnut on the top pitch (I dont think Chris was impressed as it was the first time we’d used it!) we set of for Treen and a deserved warm up. The belay ledges had been cold work today, mainly because of the wing. Chris and I mused over what a good start to the season we had just had….

Climbing

Scared to Life

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23rd September 2011

The Lizard – Coastguard Cliffs – Hollywood Walls

The Goldrush – HVS 5a – Lead

Silent Movie – VS 4B – Second

Quasimodo – E1 5b – Lead

Mae West – HVS 5a – Second

There are good days in climbing and then there is the 23rd of September. This turned out to be a cracker. I’d wanted to get back to Coastguard cliff since climbing Limelight and Chris and I headed off with the intention of tackling some of the other starred climbs. As it happened we ticked all of the routes we had looked at.

Climbing here is guarenteed to put a smile on your face. Sometimes a very nervous smile, but nevertheless you end up smiling. The venue is pretty intimidating and on this day with a good swell running and a moderate southerly breeze the whole atmosphere was quite overwhelming.

Descent Route!
Descent Route!

We kicked off on The Goldrush, an amazing climb with a tough start and nervy traverse. It then opens out onto the face and technical edges and small slits for your fingers. Not as hard as Limelight, but harder to protect on the more difficult moves.

Chris then lucked into Silent Movie, a stunning VS. Again challenging because of the pumpy start it once again takes you onto the main wall and some brilliant moves up to the descent gulley. It looks very unlikely at VS from the bottom, but after the initial pumpy overhang it eases and just gets better and better.

Silent Movie
Silent Movie

It was strange that Quasimodo, an excellent climb did not quite seem to match the others on the day. At E1 it was the hardest and the central black slab proved very tricky, but it did not give the atmosphere of the other climbs. On another day I would have been raving about this one, but on this day the competition was stiff. Anyway, it still took me a while to pluck up the courage to commit to the crux moves having backed off on my first attempt. Second try proved successful as I tackled it with a bit more finess and less grunt.

Chris finished on his first HVS Lead, Mae West. This has a complication in that rope management becomes an issue as it zig zags across the massive overhang abouve the belay ramp at the bottom. It is super atmospheric and the pro on the left hand side is a bit sparce. However there are two monster threads (Chris had run out of slings for the second so an improvised Chock had to make do) to give you confidence. Still, as a first HVS it was a great climb and although it definitely made Chris nervous it also put a huge smile on his face for the journey home.

Mae West
Mae West belay ledge

A very scary day all in all and one which helps you put everything into perspective. Sometimes you need to be a bit scared!

Climbing

Last of the Forties

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16th September 2011

Sennen

Civvy Route – HS 4b – Second

Gillian – E3 5c – Top Rope

This was to be my last climbing session in my forties, not that the thought crossed my mind at the time. Still its strange to think that another milestone has passed. Hopefully I will continue to improve as a climber. For certain in most other sports I am heading the other way so its great to have a really positive challenge.

This was Tom’s first outing with Chris and myself. After a few days at Plas he seems to have caught the bug so should be a regular participant in our adventures.

We knew the weather could be a problem and as it turned out rain stopped play in terms of leading. I’ve never liked granite in the rain. It takes on a peculiar quality. What was previously grippy and reliable suddenly becomes slimy and unpleasant to climb on. This is particularly the case when you get the black mould growing on it. This should be kept well clear of in damp conditions, which is what we did in the end.

Civvy route is one of those climbs that is always on the agenda but never actually gets dealt with. So we were straight on it as an opener and a challenging return to leading for Chris. At HS it is good value. Sometimes climbed as two pitches, we did it in one, which makes much more sense as long as your on double ropes. The first section moves up a tricky groove providing testing moves, but it is the top part which provides the surprise. Leaning out in an exposed position it definitely gets the adrenaline going. My feeling is that it gets a bit overshadowed by Demo Route but is actually a top climb.

Tom had climbed before, but this was a tough starter. Particularly the top where height and atmosphere have a telling impact. Tom loved it though and this can be chalked up as his first climb on Cornish granite.

Gillian - Sennen
Gillian - Sennen

The rain then put paid to any more leading for a while and so we decided to go play on an E3 called Gillian. In hindsight this was a bit unfair on Tom but having said that it does give an indication on how the grades vary. Gillian is a fantastic climb requiring strength, technique and if you were leading a steady head. We did it on a top rope, with bot Chris and myself getting to the hight underclings before pumping out. I made it on a further attempt having gained a bit of beta from watching Chris. I can only aspire to lead something of this difficulty but maybe one day it will be within sight.

Vertical Crack - Sennen
Vertical Crack - Sennen

Tom and Chris climbed out on Vertical Crack, another gem of Sennon and at the end of a mixed day where the weather did its best to mess everything up I reckoned we were very lucky to get such a good days climbing in.

 

 

Climbing

The wait is over

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30th July 2011
Bosigran
Little Brown Jug – VS 5a – Lead
Grendel – E2 5c – Second (dnf)

This was to be an iconic day for me. Little Brown Jug has been watching me for years now, waiting for me to climb it. Sometimes you get into a rut – LBJ was like this. I desperately wanted to do it, but every time I went I found an excuse not to. Anyway, Nick put paid to that. His advice of “Get on it before it gets too busy” drove me to climb it.

It was worth the wait. Chris tackled an alternative start which made a lot more sense than the traditional route. We headed up the first pitch of Doorway and Chris who’s getting right back into his leading made short work of it.

The top pitch of LBJ is just remarkable. It’s challenging from the begiining. The move off the belay ledge stopped me in my tracks and took some figuring out. It pays to be bolder here and move out from the inviting corner. The holds then start to arrive.

Little Brown JugLittle Brown Jug

Little Brown Jug

The crux is just that. The crux. The peg is gone now (I was at the BMC meeting when someone brought the remnants of it along!) but there is protection there if you look for it. It pays to be a little taller for this but you find it by gradually moving up. Delicate and balancy moves get you through this section which is amazing. Heart in mouth stuff but its what climbing is all about and I loved it.

Little Brown JugLittle Brown Jug

The final section is a crank for the top. Wild but with good holds and is an exhilerating end to one of the best climbs I’ve ever done. Chris, Nick and I were full of smiles at the end testimony to why LBJ is so iconic.

Now Grendell…… This was up a few levels in difficulty. It didnt help that it was baking hot at this point leading to sweaty hands and greasey foot placements. (Thats the excuses out the way early). Nick made abrilliant effort on this. The bottom crack is tough and the niche which imo is the crux of the route was very difficult for me and Chris. There is a point where the holds run out and you have to rely very much on foot friction. In my case this wasnt quite enough and I slid off twice. Very frustrating as I am sure I can do this.

That said, Nick worked hard for this which is an indication to me of its difficulty. A small fall on the crux did not take away what was a brilliant lead.

So now it was a choice between an HVS or a jump in the sea to cool off at Halladrine Cove. Of course the sea won and quite rightly on this day. It was take your breath away entries into the water but after that I got the light burning sensation you get on your skin from swimming in a cool sea. Amazing feeling and a stunning way to end the day.

Halladrine CoveHalladrine Cove

I think by this time Guiness and Mutley had just about had enough having been dragged all around Bosigran and all they were thinking about was curling up and sleep. We hover headed for the Gurnards Head for chill down pint and to discuss the days highlights of which there were many.

Climbing

The wrong way down

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30th June 2011
Coastguard Cliffs – Tower Buttress
Sirius – HS 4b – Lead

Coastguard Cliffs

It was one of those days when each decision Chris and I made seemed to go slightly awry. I had been reading through the new Rockfax book on the South West and the climbs listed for the Coastguard Cliffs area looked good. The aim was to do a few climbs but as it happened we ended up doing just one but including a bit of adventure on the way.

Coastguard Cliffs

Having picked the wrong route down to the coast we tracked back towards the most southerly point admiring the stunning views in what was turning out to be a cracking day. The buttress with Sirius on is not easy to find. The best way is to use the bench above Holywood Walls as a marker which is 100m East of Tower Buttress. Make sure you stay on the East side for the descent unlike Chris and I. We set our abseil on a loose, steep corner above a narrow gulley.

Coastguard Cliffs

The scariest part of the day was lowering off with stones and bits of cliff breaking off on the way down. On reaching the bottom I scrambled for cover on a narrow outcrop while Chris dropped down. 15 minutes of head scratching later we realised we were on the wrong side of a very steep slippy inlet. The only way across was to climb. Trying 5a moves on rock covered with wet green slime is not easy and we used the ab rope as back up. It didnt help when we had to release and jump for the final edge. The stretch meant we skimmed the surface of the water before making undignified landings in the opposite side.

Coastguard CliffsSirius

Finally we found the start of Sirius which proved to be a great climb although easier than the gulley! You traverse across, before pulling up onto a ramp which goes up to a good belay. The rock looks like its going to be brittle and unreliable, but this is not the case. I found it fine and there are some good substantial holds even though the ground is steep.

Sirius

The guide book makes a comment that pro is not as good as it could be, but again I’m not sure this is right. I found plenty and good placements. The upper pitch is a little sparcer in fact but all in all, a good climb in a great exposed position.

The fact that it was a hot and sunny day helped and once again Cornwall delivered the views. We’ll be back for Holywood walls which looks great and has a good selection of HVS’s.

 

Climbing

Old woods and suntan lotion…. but no Devil!

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8th April 2011

The Dewerstone

Central Groove – HS 4B – Alt Lead
Leviathon – VS 4C – Lead
Climbers Club Direct – HVS 5Aa – Second

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According to something I read on the net (not always the most reliable source of ‘true’ information), “The Dewerstone, on the southern edge of Dartmoor is supposedly a favourite haunt of the Devil. With his pack of wisht hounds he would drive sinners to the edge of the cliff, never once touching them, where they would then fall onto the jagged rocks below.”

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Well, from my perspective the woods would be better described as stunning and mythical. A beautiful stream flowing through and sunlight beaming through the gaps in the trees does not make them threatening at all. And the climbing is amazing. This must go down as one of my favorite days. Three contrasting climbs, gradually building in intensity.

Bart, Chris and I turned up early and set about Central Groove straight away. This is an amazing line following the main groove and then breaking right for a final finish up an amazing corner. Unfortunately I forgot that the 1st belay point would be in the full sun and so I paid the price with a thorough ‘cooking’ on an exposed ledge. The views though made up for it, with a vista across the tops of the trees across and up the valley.

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The climb itself is slightly polished, but not so that you notice. It is so compelling with good gear throughout. Just complete fun climbing and one of the best routes I’ve done. Bart enjoyed himself as well – his first multi pitch route for a while, but he breezed up it as did Chris, who led the second pitch and the final corner/crack, which is the icing on the cake.

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Leviathon is a bit more committing. A tough Groove which I found best to bridge. More powerful and needs more thought, but fine at the grade with adequate pro. I loved it and I can understand why it makes it onto the list of top VS’s in the country. A little slip got my heart going and the final pull over on slopers made me nervous.

OK. Now Climbers Club Direct is a different kettle of fish. Many of the climbs at Dewerstone need jamming, but CCD needs lots of it. Nick did a brilliant job of leading it and made the initial crack look straight forward. Which it is, until you actually try to climb it. Chris joined my ‘keep trying’ club from the previous week. I struggled to work out the way to move up, but it boiled down to a small foothold and plenty of faith.

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For me though the suprise was the second pitch which turned ut to be exceptional. Given 4c in the book this is better thought of as 5b territory and very bold in places for the leader. A series of amazing jams and bridges got me up and a pitch I will not forget any time soon.

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So ended an exceptional day and all I want to do now is get back on the rock. Role on next FRiday.

This links to all the photos