15th May 2010 Chair Ladder

South Face Direct – VS4c – Alt Lead

After the indifferent weather of the last few weeks, we final got our sunny warm day. What better place than Chair Ladder at low tide and another opportunity to have a go at SFD. This was the one we missed out on last time, much to Joe’s frustration, so after  an abortive attempt to descend the South end we set up to ab into the gulley beneath SFD. The ledges were full of nesting guls, but the route seemed to be clear of them as far as we could tell. Or was that just wishful thinking.

SFD is everything you would want in a VS, with a mixture of technical climbing, grunt and exposure. Joe was keen to tackle the 2nd pitch so I led off on the first. A good warm up pitch which indicates what is to come. The 2nd pitch though is much tougher. A difficult shallow groove to start which forces you upwards in the search for good holds and then a niche with a difficult exit. There was a hidden hold here which makes it much easier,but you have to find it….unfortunately Joe didnt so he had to do it the hard way.

When you pass the famous saddle horn you should bear right, but with a seagul nesting at the top of the V crack Joe went left leading to an akward top out onto the ledge. Probably slightly harder than the original variation, but fun.

The third pitch was mine. After negotiating the nesting gul, who didnt mind us that much uttering a few sqwarks, you move up to a slightly overhanging crack. Strenuous but with good holds and really fine climbing. I had not expected this so the suprise was brilliant. At this point Joe decided to chuck his shoe at a seagul on the ledge below his belay (not a good idea when you’re 100ft up) and had to downclimb to get it. The bird was not pleased and put up a stiff resistance to Joe’s efforts to regain his shoe. Talk about luck… 1ft further and Joe would have had to swim to retrieve his shoe.

The final pitch is 4a and again good climbing, finishing through another niche. Having despatched this we negotiated our way off the pillar (more difficult if you are shorter) and settlled down for lunch, completely dehydrated and knackered. Dehydration makes you clumsy I discovered on the decent to pick up the ab rope, tacking a flyer when I caught my shoe on one of the boulders. Somehow I landed on the only patch of grass around. I couldnt have planned it better, but it was a wake up call to take care.

Exhausted, we retreated back to the car at the end of a beautiful and amazing days climbing. The cliffs are alive at the moment with all their splendor on show. Role on next weekend and our camping trip.