Tag Archives: 4c

Climbing

Find me something hard!

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7th September 2012
Fox Promontory

Sinister – VS 4c – Lead
Pilgrims – HVS 4c – Second

View toward Carn Barra

The scramble onto Fox Promontory is almost as much fun as the climbing. It’s definitely a good warm up as you move along the narrow ridge to the far nose. Once again you are enveloped in the ruggedness and beauty of Cornwalls coast. The view out towards Carn Barra opens up with miles of Granite climbing on display.

A busy ab point

A few of us (6 to be exact) made our way here with the thought that when it heated up, which it was going to on this day, Fox would be fairly cool being a more north facing venue. Strange how durig the cooler months you look for warm venues and then as soon as it gets hot, the search is on for shady spots.

The ab in

Finding the ab point caused us the usual problems, but most of the edges are steep and we managed not to destroy Pete’s new rope in the process.  We started again on the seaward nose with Joe and Pete on the Muzzle, me and Tom on Sinister and Chris and Dave having another go at the guano infested hairy monster that is the Whisker.

Pulling up into the groove of Sinister

The latter is given stars in the guide, but it would seem lack of traffic and nesting birds make what should be a great climb a little unpleasant in places. Still, Chris and Dave completed it this time, finishing up a tough and very dirty crack. No push over this one by all accounts.

Scouting out Pilgrims

Tom and I struggled to follow the described guidebook route, possibly because some of Sinister has fallen down. Either that or we were way of route. The mantleshelf described didnt appear to be there, but the moves around the corner and up over the flake are really good fun.

A busy belay as well

Fox Promontory is a stunning venue. Very secluded and a very different place when sunny to when its dark and grey. On this day it was brilliant, with water so clear that the seal watching us for most of the day could be seen in its entirety. Mind blowing.

Joe had been gunning for something with a bite all day and a venture up Pilgrim ticked all the boxes. After a short tantrum from me about not starting in the only damp niche on the south coast  on this day, we set off up the bottom pitch of Mistaken Identity which links more obviously with the top pitch of Pilgrims. As a complete route it works well, but doesnt make the top pitch any easier. Joe did a brilliant job leading this one. Gear is OK but the balancey nature of the climb makes placing it difficult. Lots of small crimpy holds, careful footwork makes for a top route.

Joe on the top belay of Pilgrims

Dave and Chris were on Sunshine cracks, by all accounts a slightly run out HS with some tough moves and Tom found his usual degenerating pile of choss called Foxblood which led to Pete ageing a few years prematurely as Tom ran it out.

Once again, completely knackered we trudged back to Porthgwarra. For Tom myself and Joe it would be more of the same the following day as we were staying at Treen for the BMC meet.

Climbing

Ochre’s my favorite colour

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Bosigran / Halldrine Cove
10th August 2012

Ochre Slab 1 – VS 5a – Alt lead (P2)
Ding – VS 4c – Alt Lead (P2)
Limpet Slab – V Diff – Second

On occasions the Ochre Slab area of Bosi is almost like a seperate venue to the main cliff. A large gulley seperates it from Raven Wall and whilst the well known multi pitch routes around the Doorpost area can be busy, this area has the feeling of seclusion.

Looking out towards Commando Ridge

And it was like that on this day. I’d earmarked Paragon initially, but OSR1 was clear and I’d always wanted to have a crack at the wild chimney on its final pitch.

With Dave and Tom tackling the classic Black Slab we scrambled our way across to the start via some soloing. OSR1 has two completely contrasting pitches. The first is all about finesse with a crux that involves traversing blind around the arete on the right. Pro’s ok but it’s a tricky move and you have to have faith that there is something there for your feet and hands. Chris made it look easy, finding the invisible holds and foot placements and looking like he was thoroughly enjoying himself. The whole line flows very nicely and although the top slab is bold, the climbing is not tough as you get higher.

Dave on Black Slab

The chimney is entirely different. Still requiring a bit of faith that holds will come, it’s all about pulling up into the space and then searching out the jugs. My first attempts, while Tom was belaying directly below were abandoned on account of my landing on his head if I fell. After a nervous couple of minutes I hauled up and ‘behold’ it all becomes clear how its done. Just have faith!

Dave leading Ochre Slab Route 2

Chris and I moved onto Ding while Tom and Dave went for OSR2 a fitting companion to our previous route and a brilliant climb as well. Chris got the first pitch of Ding which to be honest is the best one. He remarked later how all the climbs on this day seemed to flow and this is particularly the case with Ding. It follows a superb line up the face with a series of hard moves.

Ian demonstrating how not to chimney

My ventures on the second pitch once again exposed my failings on chimneys. Still, I had fun and the final swing out on the overhang (we were off route by this time, probably on Dong) capped two amazing routes. Big smiles all around then and only one course of action…..

To the Cove for a swim!!!!

and jump!

Having cooled off nicely on what was a baker of a day we finished on two side by side routes at Halldrine Cove, which Dave and Tom led. Contrasting, mine which Tom led, was an exposed arete and Chris’ which Dave led was an akward chimney. Both done really well by their respective leaders.

Dave and Tom leading at Halldrine

Tom and Dave are coming on really fast with their leading. I remenisced with Chris on the fact that it took a couple of years for us to get to the same stage that they are at after a few months. The big difference I suppose is that Chris and I had to learn everything for ourselves and we had no one to push us. Didnt stop us having fun though and this year we’re checking out E1’s so we got there in the end.

Chris on Shrimpet

Oh Yes! Nearly forgot about the encore. A pod of Risso’s Dolphins appeared literally as we finished the day. Could it get better. Yes. A stop for a beer at Zennor capped what was a truly memorable day.

Tom checking out the dolphins off Halldrine

 

 

Climbing

Dont go chasing waterfalls

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27th July 2012
Tregiffian

Gravity Slab – VS 4c – Lead
Green Streaks – VS 4c – Lead
Loose Limpet Crack – HS 4b – Second

Just incredible

So it was back to Tregiffian. Such an incredible place and so much climbing was irresistable. This time we had Pete and Chris in tow, so it was their turn to experience the thorn jungle approach. In fact the whole walk in on this day was pretty arduous. Really hot and with the recent rain the nettles, brambles and hawthorn seemed to have exploded.

The boulder cave entrance

So once there we did the obvious and jumped in the sea (which was still hypothermic). What a brilliant place to swim. There is a natural swimming pool there and with the sun and turquise water it was like being in the mediterranean without the warmth. Tom’s reference to the whole experience being slightly Brokeback Mountain didnt phase anyone, although Tom’s posing on a boulder was slightly dubious.

Ian about to set off on the amazing but bold Gravity Slab
Pete on the crux of Gravity Slab

My first route of the day was gravity slab. Tregiffian has the habit of serving up a variety of good climbs at VS and GS didnt disappoint. Completely different to Acid Test, GS is mostly about one move. But it is bold, both in the lower section and on the crux. The crux is a mantleshelf, out wide from your last piece of gear (which is bomber) so it feels very exposed. Also it’s not easy, making you rely on small crimps and smears to get you over the top. It scared me, but that’s what it is about really. Just the start Chris, Pete and I needed.

Dave finishing off Exit at Tregiffian

Meanwhile Dave and Tom were working their way up Exit so we all met back at the top of the crag. After descending back down we were alittle trapped by the tide. There was no swell but the pool below Loose Limpet Crack was still a bit deep so we went for Green Streak.

Pete on the first and tough pitch of Green Streak
Ian negotiating the slime on Green Streak's second pitch

OK, so this one doesnt look too bad from the bottom but once again it is a real fight. The finger crack is strenuous and difficult to read. The crux move takes some working out on the first pitch, and pro is hard to place. When Chris followed later most of his gear ended up in the rock pool below, but he just wanted an epic – which he got. Pete though made it look easy a good indication of how his climbing is coming on this year.

Suprisingly the second pitch which goes through slimy green rock and a waterfall is great fun. After the strain of the first it adds some fun and I loved it. Even when the water started traveling down my belay setup it just provided a bit of cooling.

Chris getting balanced on Acid Test

Whilst I was on Green Streak, Chris was working his way up Acid Test. Talking to him later he had the same ordeal I did, needing to work out how to tackle the crack. Still the climb of the crag in my opinion.

Cooling my feet
Dave styling on Loose Limpet Crack

Dave had been eyeing up the main face and a great looking V Diff called Loose Limpet Crack. Harder than anything else Dave has done, this was a proper challenge. It involves two transfers from one crack to another, the first being the crux.  Dave cruised through it, providing a fitting end to what was a fantastic day.

Tom high on Loose Limpet Crack

What I find startling is that having done so many top climbs here, there still seems to be loads more. I’m sure we’ll be back soon, hopefully before the end of the summer for another swim.

 

 

Climbing

So much to choose from

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28th June 2012

Trewavas East Buttress

Mascara – VS 4c – Lead
Sams Indirect finish to bending chimney – VS 4c – Second

We needed somewhere dry and not blown away by the fresh breeze and Trewavas seemed a fair bet. For Chris it was his first visit and for Dave it was a return after a fairly lengthy break. In fact when he was last here I was just starting off with my own climbing and I remember well how I struggled to get going on Joy.

Stunning!

On this excursion I picked an adjacent climb called Mascara. I’d seen a photo online and ever since wanted to have a crack at it. The initial section is straight forward until you reach the top of the corner underneath the overhang,

The scary bit on Mascara

Then it gets interesting. A long bridge opens up the arete and you need to swing out and pull up onto the face around the corner. Tricky but just keep looking for the  holds and you’ll find them.

Chris getting flexible with Mascara

I actually found the top crack the most nervewracking, because of the lack of decent pro. It’s not difficult but adds an edge to the end of the climb. Mascara gets a thumbs up in my book though. A top climb.

Bending Chimney - A classic route

Deviously I suggested Sams indirect finish to Bending Chimney as a possible lead for Chris. Having done the top section as part of Flanker a few weeks back with Pete I knew what he was in for.

Probably the crux move on SIFTBC

And it didnt disappoint. Chris cruised through the chimney and came to an abrupt stop at the base of the crack. The usual result in my experience.

Dave trying a layback on SIFTBC

The biggest factor is the sudden exposure and then going from relatively relaxed climbing in the chimney to strenuous work getting up the initial part. of the narrow crack. With the pump on from the start Chris found himself running out of energy with 3 feet to go. The result was a desperate push for the top  before the arms gave out. This time Chris made it and deprived us of the spectacle of a lob off the steep face. A really top effort.

Dave on the top crack of SIFTBC

With so many climbs in a small area we’ve plenty more to go back to. Including South Groove an E1  I ‘ve been meaning to have a go at for a while.

 

Climbing

A right good spanking

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1st June 2012

St Loy

Ivy Incorporated – V Diff – Second
Harmony – HVS 5b – Lead (dnf)
Monochrome Men – E1 5b – Second
Supercruise – HVS 4c – Lead

I returned to St Loy for one specific reason on this day and as with my attempt before with Joe, Harmony gave me a good seeing to.

Once again things just did not flow on this HVS. I thought I new what I was going to do, but its easy to forget how akward the climb is and how pumpy it is too. Add to this my sweaty hands and I had a recipe for disaster which I duly served up to myself.

Ian making it look like a straight forward step up. IT ISN'T!

I have resolved now to return on a cool evening and remember the lessons I have learnt so far.

  • Dont place pro on the high crucial hold on the first niche. Otherwise you just make it even harder.
  • Wait until my hands are not as sweaty so I can get the jam working on the second niche.
  • Do this climb at the end of a session, otherwise the bitter taste of defeat stays with you.
Ian about to get his second spanking of the day on Harmony
At least this time I didnt spit my dummy out…..just.
Otherwise this was a great session, mixed with Chris adding to his E1 tally and Dave tackling a stiff V Diff. And we had the company of Dolphins, which always brings a smile to your face.
Dave kicking things off on Ivy Incorporated

 

Ivy Incorporated is not a straight forward V Diff. The bottom section is steep and unusually for a climb of this grade you place gear in a not very relaxed position.
Dave looking after Ian on Ivy Incorporated
But it is a fine climb, leading to a high top out above the main face. Dave managed to find the biggest pro placement I’ve ever seen looping a sling around a three ton boulder. Its what you might call ‘bomber’.
Chris moving onto the face on Monochrome Men
Chris had great fun on Monochrome Men, a demanding E1 but well protected. It really should get four stars it’s that good. As some passing climbers said, if MM was up country there would be people on it all day and I could see why. A committing swing on to the face leads to good holds and pro.
Chris getting balanced before the final tenuous moves on Monochrome Men
But as you get higher the holds and foot placements start to get thin culminating in a desperate move for the thank god holds at the top. Just brilliant.
Dave about to encounter the difficult stuff on Monochrome Men
My final climb of the day was Supercruise, a soft HVS given 4c, but really more 4b in my opinion. I think it gets the HVS for the bold moves high up where you leave your pro a way behind.
Cruising on Supercruise
Having said that, its a good climb, if a little taxing on the toes. I thoroughly enjoyed it and it is a good candidate for a warm up if your going to tackle the other more demanding E numbers at St Loy.
And with that we walked out a lot quieter than we had arrived. Exhausted but happy.
…. as Larry
Climbing

True Grip

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22nd May 2012

Roche Rock

Swink Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Lord Falmouth – E1 5b – Lead

Our regular Tuesday evening focused on Roche Rock and a number of great climbs on the South and South West face.

Chris and Tom got stuck into Porkys, whilst Dave and I set about having a minor epic on Swink Chimney. Described as VS the bottom part of the pitch seems overly easy, with just a short strenuous pull into the initial crack. But the suprise is in the top section. From below this looks fairly innocuous, but up close it overhangs and isnt the easiest crack to get established in.

After a while of trying to figure out the easy way to do it, I decided there wasnt one and just launched up into it.  It remains strenuous, but the holds improve with height to an airy top out. Better than I thought it was going to be to be honest.

The end of the session was a suprise. Both Chris and I took on Lord Falmouth, the E1. To be fair it is given E1 because of the relativelt unprotected slab at the start. However there is a micro placement fairly high up and an agile belayer would ensure you didnt deck. The fantastically grippy Roche ‘rock’ came to our aid and Chris and I made short work of the slab. Most importantly this was Chris’ first E1 and a real landmark, so we all left on a high.

Climbing

The Guano Glacier

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18th May 2012
Fox Promontory

Reveille – HS 4b – Second
The Muzzle – HVS 4c – Lead

I dont know how many times I looked at the photo of The Muzzle in the Rockfax guide and thought that I’d like to try it.

Looking back up the promontory

So with cracking weather and the right tide plus no swell, the opportunity presented itself. Chris, Tom and Dave accompanied me on what was my first visit to the crag. I’ve walked past it plenty of times and it always looked spectacular. The north face is dark, but once you’re down there it looses some of it’s menace. The lines are obvious and there are plenty of the them.

Dave and Tom on Vixens Crack
Belay at the top of Vixen's Crack

With Tom and Dave getting on the steep and exposed Vixen’s Crack, Chris and I set up for Reveille. This climb rises leftwards across the main face to finish up a steep narrow slab next to a crack.  There are a couple of tricky sections; the start is quite bold and needs thought on protection and then comes the best part, a very balancy traverse at about mid height. It’s great, but you need to keep your nerve when there are few holds. Brilliant fun and a top climb.

Chris just after the tricky traverse on Reveille

Unfortunately the tide pushed up fairly quickly so we had to abandon the attempt on The Curtain Raiser, what looked like a top route following a vein of crystals. So it was onto the nose to have a go at the two classic routes there. Or so we thought.

Ian at the base of The Mussle

There was one fly in the ointment. The Whisker, the VS on the right of the promontory facing in, turned out to be in the hands of the guls and cormorants. The slab round the arete looking like a snow field with the amount of guano on it.

Chris and Dave after completing The Mussle

So we all had a go at the Muzzle with Chris clocking up his second HVS lead. The Muzzle is as good as it looks. The crack is strenuous but has positive holds and plenty of pro. The move out under the overhang is a bit more scary. It’s a case of move out and keep going into open fresh air. The holds are there but you have to look and keeping your feet on the rock is interesting. At one point I managed to leaver off my only grip just snatching another hold before I did some air time.

Chris finishing off The Mussle

The day added up to another brilliant adventure on Cornish Rock, with Dave and Tom recording another route together. We spent a while snoozing in the sunshine before sauntering off back to the van. We will be back at FP shortly I am sure.

Chilling after tide finished our session at Fox Promontory

 

 

 

Climbing

A chorus of approval

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13th May 2012

Bosigran

Anvil Chorus – VS 4c – Alt Lead
Alison Rib – Diff – Second

It was so bloody cold when we arrived. Dark and windy and not inviting at all. Bosigran had seemed the best shout for this day but it didnt look that way at first.

Belay view from P3 Anvil Chorus

Pete had brought along his new rack and I was giving Anvil Chorus the once over. With the corner of Ac looking like it might be the most sheltered spot we went for this first. I had always wanted to lead the third corner pitch ever since seconding it with Nick so this gave me the opportunity.

Pete on the first pitch of Anvil Chorus

It’s easy to forget how good a climb is until you get back on it. AC is not just about one pitch, although the 3rd is the most spectacular. All four have something to offer. Pitch one, two short slabs, can be tricky but it got me nicely warmed up.

Pitch 2 Anvil Chorus

Pitch two passes an overhang with a very airy move, requiring Chris to step out onto a poorly protected arete and a final push onto a large slab. By this point the sun was out and Bosi had transformed into acres of warm granite taking the chill off the day. So the corner pitch was done in sunshine, making the crack a lot more amenable. It’s strenuous in places but well protected; towards the top you need to push on to a brilliant rest point. A fantastic traverse to an atmospheric mantelshelf follows.

Pete on the third pitch of Anvil Chorus.

For me this was the crux, especially when my foot slipped and I almost whipped off. It made for a rather panic stricken udge onto the ledge. A shame really because 30 minutes later I did the same move again after retrieving a nut, but this time with more style.

Chilled walk back after AC

The final pitch was made harder for Chris because he completely ignored the obvious left hand crack. As a result he used a hard layback move off the arete to get established, making it a much more scary venture altogether.

After our exertions on AC it was Pete’s turn. With a new rope, new lead rack and me and Chris badgering him, he set off for his first lead up Alison Rib. It’s a great climb to make a first ascent on. Pete got good gear in and looked like he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

Pete on his first lead on Alison Rib
Ian on Alison Rib

He even managed to find the top after some guidance from Chris.

I wonder if this will hold. Oh well its only Ian....

So no longer a lead virgin, Pete, Chris and I headed home. It’s amazing how 9 hours just flies by when you’re having so much fun.

Climbing, Uncategorized

A late lunch

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12th April 2012

Black Head

Spriggans Chimney – VS 4c – Lead
Archangel – HVS 5a – Lead

I love climbing at Black Head. There’s something about the place that just makes you happy. It’s a hidden amphitheatre with turqoise sea and stunning vista’s across the bay. I never tire of the walk in and on this occasion we managed to get quite a bit closer thanks to a friendly local who told us where to park.

Traversing to the abseil point above Sprigans Chimney

Dave and I were looking to have a go at Archangel, a climb Dave had tagged last time we were there. But the tide was high for the morning so we took on pitch 2 of Spriggans Chimney. To be honest, pitch 2 is the best pitch starting with a steep crack and leading into a corner bypassing a large overhang. As usual it took me a little while to get going, the bottom crack being a little akward with footholds that dont inspire confidence. But the top moves are fun and the traverse across the top of the overhang is exposed and exciting.

Top of Sprigans Chimney

We decided to push straight on with Archangel. A solo down Black Dyke and we were at the belay. This route is superb. Great climbing up the striking corner crack gets you to a small roof. Traverse right here across the face in a great position to find the first belay. Not hard for the grade, but the crux requires good footwork and commitment.

Ian on Pitch 1 Archangel

The top half is fairly easy climbing, disjointed, but fun with strange rock and peculiar moves. By this time we had lost all track of time and we ended up having lunch at 6p.m.! This probably accounts for why I felt rubbish for the next couple of hours.

Belay at the trop of pitch 1 Archangel

Dave however was still raring to go and tackled Rebel Yell, the E2 which goes up the steep headwall. Small holds and balancy moves put him to the test, but he wasnt found wanting, and made it up with a big smile on his face.

Fortunately we didnt have the long walk out. My blood sugar levels were still grumbling so I probably would have struggled. And so ended a fantastic day out. Only Rebel Yell to return to now, which I fancy leading at some point.

Climbing

The tide waits for no man

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17th February 2012

Chair Ladder
South Face Direct – VS 4c – Alt Lead

Its one of the main factors to take into account with sea cliffs. The tide and swell conditions can change your arrangements in an instance, especially as many of the Cornwall crags are only properly accessable for about 3 hours either side of low tide.

Chris and I had wanted to climb Red Wall, a severe I’ve had my eye on for a while, but after abbing down Ash Can Gulley to the base of SFD it quickly became apparent that we wouldnt get around the corner: at least not without getting soaked.

Ash Can Gully ab

With the bottom pitch of SFD dripping (I know because I slimed my way back up it thanks to Chris’ belay at the start of pitch two) we decided to tackle SFD. Last time I climbed this was with Joe so we flipped the pitches around so that I would lead P2 and Chris the remainder.

I remember the second pitch being tricky and it lived up to expectations. It is great climbing though, not strenuous, but more technical than many VS’s. On reaching the bollard, I made the same mistake as we had done last time, going left and making the top out onto the ledge a lot harder than it needed to be. Also a lot more guano infested, which was stinking.

Chris contemplating the fierce pitch 3

Chris had a quick intro to the fierce pitch three overhang. Lots of holds and pro, but it still takes a lot of grunt to get up it. It’s my favorite pitch on SFD, purely because of the wildness of it. You dont normally get pitches like this on a VS.

Getting started on pitch 3 South Face Direct
Almost a rest spot on Pitch 3

After losing a number 4 wallnut on the top pitch (I dont think Chris was impressed as it was the first time we’d used it!) we set of for Treen and a deserved warm up. The belay ledges had been cold work today, mainly because of the wing. Chris and I mused over what a good start to the season we had just had….